Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!

[CXR100]

if you have done a hole with a holesaw but its the size too small and want to make it larger, then obviously its not as simple as just drilling away because you have nowhere for the centre bit to go and holesaw will just sbin around everywhere. you can do a jig with some ply, drill thr requred size hole thru the ply then scew that ipece down to the floor or whatever over the hole you want to make larger, this will keep the holesaw in place to start drillig!

 

[Killy Bing]

if you have done a hole with a holesaw but its the size too small and want to make it larger, then obviously its not as simple as just drilling away because you have nowhere for the centre bit to go and holesaw will just sbin around everywhere. you can do a jig with some ply, drill thr requred size hole thru the ply then scew that ipece down to the floor or whatever over the hole you want to make larger, this will keep the holesaw in place to start drillig!

also a great way to start off tile drilling, tile coring or even core drilling in awkward locations.

 

[TBServices]

Starret actually make holesaws you can fit inside each other to make that process easier

 

[Best]

if you have done a hole with a holesaw but its the size too small and want to make it larger, then obviously its not as simple as just drilling away because you have nowhere for the centre bit to go and holesaw will just sbin around everywhere. you can do a jig with some ply, drill thr requred size hole thru the ply then scew that ipece down to the floor or whatever over the hole you want to make larger, this will keep the holesaw in place to start drillig!

Good idea!
Another way to do it if the hole is too small is to have the larger hole cutter you need & screw a hole cutter (same size as tge smaller hole) inside it - which will stick out a little more & act to guide the outer cutter. Brilliant for when you need to drill larger holes in plasterboard ceilings for down lights.

 

[Best]

Starret actually make holesaws you can fit inside each other to make that process easier

You got there before me! :smile:
Other makes can often do same.

 

[CXR100]

the ones i have wont do this as i tried, also the thread is not the same size on all of the set!

 

[Phil]

Laminate floors are a pain but not the end of the world, after fault finding a dead and empty radiator I deduced the problem pipe work had to be under the laminate floor in the dining room. I told the customer it had to be partially removed and I would do my best to put it back properly. I found two valves under there both turned off but I'd removed more or less half the dining room floor.

I was quite suprised that I managed to get it all back in one piece and when the customer came back from work she even said " so you didn't need to take it up after all!"

As long as you put the cut pieces in a seperate pile you cant really go wrong, also you have to ideally work backwards from the way it was fitted so start with the full length cut side.

This is just normal 6mm laminate though, don't know how easy it would be with the 18mm solid/engineered wood.

But its worth knowing it can be done for those of you that didn't know!

 

[Kyle87]

Laminate floors are a pain but not the end of the world, after fault finding a dead and empty radiator I deduced the problem pipe work had to be under the laminate floor in the dining room. I told the customer it had to be partially removed and I would do my best to put it back properly. I found two valves under there both turned off but I'd removed more or less half the dining room floor.

I was quite suprised that I managed to get it all back in one piece and when the customer came back from work she even said " so you didn't need to take it up after all!"

As long as you put the cut pieces in a seperate pile you cant really go wrong, also you have to ideally work backwards from the way it was fitted so start with the full length cut side.

This is just normal 6mm laminate though, don't know how easy it would be with the 18mm solid/engineered wood.

But its worth knowing it can be done for those of you that didn't know!

Grabbing a market pen and jotting on the backs to remind you which ones belong I. A row together might not be a bad idea either.

I've found the main thing is when you put two ends together its making sure they are PERFECT or the entire joint line will have a tiny gap and look bad

 

[Kyle87]

One tip. Permanent marker

Mark every board. And use the a-a b-b etc. When done. Use wipes that contain alcohol and robs your mums brother. BTW do a test in a corner if you think it may mark!

Beat me

 

[Kyle87]

I keep a small piece of 9mm ply about 800mm x 400mm in the van.

I wrap it in a dust sheet and lay it across a bath when working on taps or showers. The same for a basin when changing taps and washers.


Stops you from dropping a spanner and damaging things and can slide under your toolboxes in van so doesn't take up any room.

 

[Destroyer2813]

Same principal when tiling a bathroom Kyle , put your cutter on it saves you bending down all the time

 

[TBServices]

Same principal when tiling a bathroom Kyle , put your cutter on it saves you bending down all the time

I always put my cutter on top of its case, on top of my hop up.

For tiling above a bath, get a bit of old worktop/ply with a bit of nice soft carpet stuck to it.

 

[Destroyer2813]

Did do that but got feed up moving box on off when I wanted the hop up

 

[Killy Bing]

get the snazzy bosch hole saw sets with the quick release arbor.

as they wear out you can take out the quick release section off the old holesaw and put on most other brands !!
the quick functionality of the quick release with any hole saw

or buy the adapters and the quick change arbor

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bosch-Con...Home_Garden_PowerTools_SM&hash=item336a648ae3

 

[TBServices]

get the snazzy bosch hole saw sets with the quick release arbor.

as they wear out you can take out the quick release section off the old holesaw and put on most other brands !!
the quick functionality of the quick release with any hole saw

*looks online for new starret hole saws to fit his bosch arbor*

 

[stevetheplumber]

I keep a small piece of 9mm ply about 800mm x 400mm in the van.

I wrap it in a dust sheet and lay it across a bath when working on taps or showers. The same for a basin when changing taps and washers.


Stops you from dropping a spanner and damaging things and can slide under your toolboxes in van so doesn't take up any room.

this reminded me always put the plug in or pop up down when working on tapssaves taking the trap of to find the screw or nut youve dropped in the basin

 

[jonnyswamp]

Haven't read all the thread so I might be repeating what someone has already posted but, I always keep a couple of spare test nipples, old rad air vents and the top off a thumb screw air vent
I once dropped a thumb screw air vent cap whilst filling (on my own) and couldn't find it anywhere, ended up tying my jumper around it while I ran back to the drain off........
Lesson learnt

 

[helpsy]

When removing things like monobloc taps keep backing plate/washer and on CH pump keep bleed screw. You can guarantee they will find the only hole if dropped....never to be seen again !

 

[helpsy]

Try to plan ahead and have a second way of getting the job finished before you even start if you get part way through the job and isn't going according to plan !

 

[helpsy]

1k !!!!!

 

[Bunker]

Window fitters use about a hundred mastic tubes per window....ask them for a handful of left over unused nozzles, they have hundreds of them, very useful for us.

 

[Chalked]

Service engineer mate of mine showed me this tip today.

for boiler expansion vessel replacement or testing ( with braded hose) he uses a brake pipe clamp to clamp the flexi hose, then replace vessel or test without draining the boiler or system.

one of these.

 

[Bunker]

Service engineer mate of mine showed me this tip today.

for boiler expansion vessel replacement or testing ( with braded hose) he uses a brake pipe clamp to clamp the flexi hose, then replace vessel or test without draining the boiler or system.

one of these.

That is genius, unless it could damage the line?

 

[Chalked]

Mechanics use them all the time on brake lines.
Good enough for 20 bar.

 

[solutions]

Service engineer mate of mine showed me this tip today.

for boiler expansion vessel replacement or testing ( with braded hose) he uses a brake pipe clamp to clamp the flexi hose, then replace vessel or test without draining the boiler or system.

one of these.

Not sure I like the idea of crushing a braided hose. Pinching the hose alone wont allow you to test the expansion vessel unless you also detach the hose before testing the charge. Flexible break hoses are quite different to braided plumbing hoses. You can buy schrader valve extensions from truck supply stores which can make connecting to concealed valves easier. They are intended for lorries with double wheels each axle end to allow the inner wheel valve to be reached from the outer wheel but they work great for expansion vessels.

 

[Whyme]

Service engineer mate of mine showed me this tip today.

for boiler expansion vessel replacement or testing ( with braded hose) he uses a brake pipe clamp to clamp the flexi hose, then replace vessel or test without draining the boiler or system.

one of these.

bet thats good for clamping plastic pipes

 

[kay-jay]

bet thats good for clamping plastic pipes

I usually clamp plastic with my teeth at arms length from where I'm gonna cut it, then give it a snip and whack a valve on it.

The above method works in england and wales however due to poor dental hygiene should not be attempted if you are scottish.....

 

[tamz]

Especially west coast :smile:

 

[Ermintrude]

When your on a job and there isn't one it's polite to fit one. Sick of muppets who fit system or do a boiler swap and neglect to spend £3.49 and two mins to fit them !!!!!!!

 

[Bunker]

Service engineer mate of mine showed me this tip today.

for boiler expansion vessel replacement or testing ( with braded hose) he uses a brake pipe clamp to clamp the flexi hose, then replace vessel or test without draining the boiler or system.

one of these.

Had a thought about this yesterday as I removed an exp vessel. You only have to let the pressure off not drain the system down anyway. I then wind a cap onto the flex just to stop the drips.
If you did use that clamp then the vessel would still have pressure in it and would make a mess.
Just release system pressure (ideally from a drain off or rad, try to avoid the temptation if the PRV)

 

[Ermintrude]

Don't most boilers with internal exp have ISo valves and drain off? With most intergalactic filling loops u can empty boiler off? That is if the previous fitter understood regs and fitted nrv on cold not ch

 

[IDCHAPPY]

If you're going to change the syphon on a close couple toilet that's been in for a few years, it's always worth having a spare donut and bracket handy as the old one will probably be rusted to buggery

 

[gasmanrob]

If you're going to change the syphon on a close couple toilet that's been in for a few years, it's always worth having a spare donut and bracket handy as the old one will probably be rusted to buggery

Just buy a fluid master kit from our forum sponsor Williams and co for a very reasonable £19 and it comes with a bracket and donut

 

[IDCHAPPY]

I'm way up in scotchland though

 

[stevetheplumber]

I'm way up in scotchland though

not got the post that far north?