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im a bit of a cheapskate so i use some old shower curtains ive gained.
 
if you live in a rural area like I do then its a 20 mile round journey to a laundrette . probably not worth I for me in lost time and fuel!!
 
Buy a second hand washing machine then. Only use laundrette as easier than washing and drying 30 odd sheets
 
Installing a top fed towel rad but want bottom entry performance?

On the flow pipe use a union styled radiator tail.
solder into this a length of 15 mm pipe to reach near to the bottom of the rad.

Thread in and hey presto.
 
Following on from the dust in pipes thread. Want an easy way of preventing debris getting into new pipework. Slap a speedfit stop end on. Only problem is what happens if you stick one on a pipe intended for gas and forget about it? Easy drill a small hole in the end and paint it yellow. Can't be mistaken for a normal one and if you forget to remove it before gassing up it will show as a fail on the tightness test.

I've also got a test point threaded into the end of a speedfit connector to allow me to test gas pipes before they are connected to the meter. Also useful when you are trying to track down a leak as you can isolate sections of pipe and test them separately.
 
I find those jg caps to be a nightmare to get off. Especially in tight spaces. I have lost many a battle with them.
 
Have you ever tried to get one off a pipe frozen with a freezing machine where the stop end is 2mm above the ice plug? Hacksawing that off was proper brown trouser time.

Edit: sorry that was banter.

Tip: Don't live catch a pipe with a stop end that you later intend to freeze and join onto unless there is room to cut.
 
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When stuck at security gates and you can't wait to get on to the job or no one answering. Clamber over wall with welding transformer , put it on the loop nearest gate and hey presto.
 
I just stick a push fit on the end of..
 
Following on from the dust in pipes thread. Want an easy way of preventing debris getting into new pipework. Slap a speedfit stop end on. Only problem is what happens if you stick one on a pipe intended for gas and forget about it? Easy drill a small hole in the end and paint it yellow. Can't be mistaken for a normal one and if you forget to remove it before gassing up it will show as a fail on the tightness test.

I've also got a test point threaded into the end of a speedfit connector to allow me to test gas pipes before they are connected to the meter. Also useful when you are trying to track down a leak as you can isolate sections of pipe and test them separately.
any pipe intended for gas needs a compression (if accessible) or end feed for the just in case i forget about it !!
 
Push fits aren't permitted.. end feed comprehension only like you say
 
Comprehension fittings are great, they know what you want to do when you want it done..
I solemnly agree..Shift+R improves the quality of this image. Shift+A improves the quality of all images on this page.
 
any pipe intended for gas needs a compression (if accessible) or end feed for the just in case i forget about it !!

Which is the reason for the small hole, debris stays out but you can't forget to remove it because it will fail the tightness test. Saves wasting an olive using a compression fitting just for pipe protection.
 
3 port valve, broken spring post, non changeable head, no time Tim drain etc?

Nuts n bolts. Job done.

aquja4a6.jpg
 
If you're trying to bung a Fluidmaster bottom entry into a toilet and it is slightly catching on the side, it turns out that putting a small screw in the very top of the darth vader style helmet - and using it to lever it away from the side by couple of millimeters doesn't interfere with the operation at all, although it does displease The Emperor.
 
When commissioning connect p+ to gas valve and fga to flue and then u get inlet pressure on Anton fga printout. One of lads never seen it before...... Was sad when I heard how he did it.
bbd1cbd9bd54149f1f7e9308b9716cf3.jpg
 
When applying silicon sealant to a new bathroom, save hours of time cleaning down: -

1.) Apply silicon into joint, ensure joint is filled completely. Do not smooth down yet.
2.) Lightly spray a good quality silicon lubricant (like the WD40 silicon lubricant available from Screwfix) over the entire joint.
3.) Smooth joint off with your finger. No silicon will stick anywhere where silicon spray is.

Saves loads of time!
 
When applying silicon sealant to a new bathroom, save hours of time cleaning down: -

1.) Apply silicon into joint, ensure joint is filled completely. Do not smooth down yet.
2.) Lightly spray a good quality silicon lubricant (like the WD40 silicon lubricant available from Screwfix) over the entire joint.
3.) Smooth joint off with your finger. No silicon will stick anywhere where silicon spray is.

Saves loads of time!

Soapy water does the same Crofty
 
Buy the silicone working tools set - ( the different shaped rubber bits that have tapered sides & different corner cut outs ). I never had any until recently & find them fantastic for shaping the silicone joint & removing any of the excess smear - often in one go. Only cost me about £4 in Lidl
 
Soapy water does the same Crofty

Never tried it in a spray bottle to be honest. Have used it in a cup before but will give that a try. Cheers!
 
faulty expansion vessel? not got a spare or time to go collect one, or cant do the job til next week......

drain upstairs, refill system bleed all rads apart from one(spare room, landing,bathroom) this unbled rad becomes your temperary expansion vessel.

you get to charge for the temp fix and again for the replacement!

now thats a top tip
 
I hear smoothing it with your finger can introduce mould to the seal
 
I’m using this simple set up to make sure my shower mixer pipes are not going for a walk.

l1.jpg

l2.jpg
 
I’m the tiler. You let the bonding plaster to set first and then get on with tiling. No probs at all.

Fair enough not good if your not the tiler tho
 
faulty expansion vessel? not got a spare or time to go collect one, or cant do the job til next week......

drain upstairs, refill system bleed all rads apart from one(spare room, landing,bathroom) this unbled rad becomes your temperary expansion vessel.

you get to charge for the temp fix and again for the replacement!

now thats a top tip

How does it work?

Keep the rad turned off? If you turn it on won't it just refill?

What am I missing?
 
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