NIBE F205 boiler - please help!

Misha · Feb 12, 2015

Hi, I live in a one bedroom flat on my own and am only in for around 12 hours today. I've got my NIBE boiler on setting 2 (winter setting). I don't leave anything on standby or lights on etc when they're not needed. I've used 750kwh in 30 days. I'm pretty certain it's the boiler that's the problem. Has anyone installed or used a NIBE F205 before? Any advice on how to reduce electricity consumption? Should I put it on setting 1 during the day, when I'm not in, and put it on setting 2 when I'm in? Should I switch all of my radiator TRV valves off during the day? One thing I'm really confused about is the fact that the homeowner NIBE f205 manual I was given says there is a timer to reduce energy consumption...but the building manager has advised me to keep the temperature constant all day. He insists that the heating will only kick in when it has to.

rpm · Feb 13, 2015

Welcome to the forum Misha, not being a heating guy all I can suggest is download the owners manual and see if that helps you to understand the settings.

Misha · Feb 13, 2015

rpm said:
Welcome to the forum Misha, not being a heating guy all I can suggest is download the owners manual and see if that helps you to understand the settings.

Thanks, mate. There are a couple of manuals. I have read those. I've been given contradictionary advice. The manual says that the timer further reduces energy consumption, but when i called the manufacturer's helpline they said it would be more energy efficient if the temperature was kept constant! Nibe boilers have had some bad publicity. They've been on The One Show, BBC news and Ripped off Britain. People have ended up with bills 3-4 more than they were expecting! Even when my thermostat is set to a high temperature and the TRVs are open fully, the temperature in my living kitchen area and my bedroom only goes up to 16-17 degrees...it's freezing. I've been wearing a hat and gloves indoors.

jtsplumbing · Feb 13, 2015

If system is that bad have you considered turning it off and getting another form of heating ? portable heaters for instance, have seen something about new type of electric heater very cost effective BUT a bit pricey to purchase.

Nostrum · Feb 13, 2015

This model is a heat pump with heat recovery ventilation.

From the small amount of info I have heard on these units, I seem to remember the main problem being the back up 3kw immersion heater coming on when it shouldn't being the cause of the issue.

It's quite specialised and not something the majority of heating engineers will have come across (me included)

Chalked · Feb 13, 2015

The trouble with electric boilers is that , kw for kw,
Electricity is nearly 3 x the cost!

Chalked · Feb 13, 2015

Looking at the specs for this heater it uses 2-5 kw.
you used 750 kw in 30 days = 25kw per day. Divide this by 12 hours and you have 2.08 kw per hour.
unfortunately, it's working correctly. But very expensive to run.

Misha · Feb 13, 2015

jtsplumbing said:
If system is that bad have you considered turning it off and getting another form of heating ? portable heaters for instance, have seen something about new type of electric heater very cost effective BUT a bit pricey to purchase.

I haven't no. The boiler also heats up water for washing. The unit is designed to run 24 hours a day.

Misha · Feb 13, 2015

Nostrum said:
This model is a heat pump with heat recovery ventilation.

From the small amount of info I have heard on these units, I seem to remember the main problem being the back up 3kw immersion heater coming on when it shouldn't being the cause of the issue.

That's right. That's what people were saying on the TV programmes.

Misha · Feb 13, 2015

Chalked said:
Looking at the specs for this heater it uses 2-5 kw.
you used 750 kw in 30 days = 25kw per day. Divide this by 12 hours and you have 2.08 kw per hour.
unfortunately, it's working correctly. But very expensive to run.

Thanks for looking at the specs. I've had the boiler running on setting 1 today. The immersion booster is off on setting 1. I kept the thermostat for the heating (it's in my hallway) at 20 degrees. The heating has been coming on when the temperature has been dropping by one degree. I kept the TRV in lounge/kitchen area fully open, my bathroom one was completely off and my bedroom one was set at 3. From 8.00am-3.00pm, 4kwh were used. I had my TV on for about 15 minutes, my computer on for about 30 max, my wifi on for 30 max and the fridge on.

Yesterday, from 8.00am-4.00pm only 1kwh had been consumed. The fridge was on and the boiler was on setting 1. I set the thermostat in my hallway to 16. I closed the TRVs on all of the radiators.

I don't have access to the electricity meters. They're locked in a room that only the caretaker can get into. He took a morning and afternoon reading today, and he has been for the past week. Cut a long story short, I was having issues with low boiler pressure, so a plumber came round and fixed a leak on Monday. Ever since Monday, I have been trying out different settings to see what uses less energy. The caretaker has said he will take morning readings only on Mon, Tues and Weds next week. He said if i want readings after that, I'll have to have weekly readings. I don't have much time to try out more settings. I don't want to end up with a huge bill again 🙁

Nostrum · Feb 13, 2015

That sounds very reasonable considering the time of year?

Misha · Feb 14, 2015

Nostrum said:
That sounds very reasonable considering the time of year?

The caretaker advised me to keep the temperature constant all day, every day. I probably used about 1kWh on my computer/tv yesterday during that7 hour period. 3kwh divided by 7 and then times by 24 hours is about 10 kWh per day. The flat is still cold though! The living room got to 16 degrees when i had the trv fully open. Bedroom was at about 15 degrees - trv was on setting 3. My bathroom trv was completely off. I was wrapped in blankets all day.

Misha · Feb 14, 2015

And 10kWh isn't including anything like energy used for cooking, watching tv, using my computer or charging my phone.

jtsplumbing · Feb 14, 2015

As B4 turn it off and buy some different heaters !! sent you a Private message with information about alternatives

Misha · Feb 14, 2015

jtsplumbing said:
As B4 turn it off and buy some different heaters !! sent you a Private message with information about alternatives

How would I heat my water? Thanks for the info.

jtsplumbing · Feb 14, 2015

Has water tank got its own immersion heater ?

Misha · Feb 14, 2015

jtsplumbing said:
Has water tank got its own immersion heater ?

yes, the immersion heater uses 3kwh. The boiler heats up the water for washing and the radiators

stevetheplumber · Feb 14, 2015

if its the same as gas you should have access to your meters for emergencies i would be demanding a key

Misha · Feb 14, 2015

stevetheplumber said:
if its the same as gas you should have access to your meters for emergencies i would be demanding a key

i asked for one but was told i can't have access. I live in a block of about 40 flats. All the meters are in one room downstairs. Tenants aren't allowed access due to health & safety. I was told there is a lot of electric and a 3 phase supply in there...

jtsplumbing · Feb 14, 2015

Misha said:
yes, the immersion heater uses 3kwh. The boiler heats up the water for washing and the radiators

OK so if you live alone how much hot water do you use, ? do you bath or shower, do you have a dish washer ? if you only shower then you don't need a tank of hot water, [if you have electric shower] got a dish washer ? then you don't need hot water for washing up , new washing machine only uses cold water

Misha · Feb 14, 2015

jtsplumbing said:
OK so if you live alone how much hot water do you use, ? do you bath or shower, do you have a dish washer ? if you only shower then you don't need a tank of hot water, [if you have electric shower] got a dish washer ? then you don't need hot water for washing up , new washing machine only uses cold water

i probably only use about half a bathtub of water every day. That's for showering and washing dishes. The shower water is drawn from the hot water tank. I don't have a dishwasher. I have a new machine, but it does give you the option of using hot water. I, however, use a cold wash cycle.

jtsplumbing · Feb 14, 2015

I think you have had lots of advise on how to save energy ! if you want the place to be warm turn it on and pay the bill, only sure way of saving money is to use the off switch !!

Nostrum · Feb 14, 2015

10kwh is about £1.50.

Nostrum · Feb 14, 2015

The caretaker is right, you need to allow the rooms to heat up to 20 ish. Once it's up to temp you can set it back to 17-18 at night. If you let the place cool right down then the unit will be running its knackers off every day to raise the temp, subsequently costing more to run.

Misha · Feb 14, 2015

Nostrum said:
The caretaker is right, you need to allow the rooms to heat up to 20 ish. Once it's up to temp you can set it back to 17-18 at night. If you let the place cool right down then the unit will be running its knackers off every day to raise the temp, subsequently costing more to run.

When I had setting 2 on (before I realised how much energy the unit was consuming), I would leave the thermostat in the hallway set at 17 degrees for 12 hours while I was at work and then I would turn it up to 20 degrees for the other 12 hours. That's when I ended up using 25kWh a day. The thing with these units, is there is are ventilation devices that constantly suck in air and then vents that constantly allow air in from outside. When I had the TRVs in bedroom and open plan kitchen/lounge fully open, while my bathroom one was set at 3. When i checked the temperature with a thermometer, the temperature in my kitchen/living area was 16 degrees, my bathroom was 17 and my bedroom was 16. The trouble i'm having is that even when I set the temperature to 20, the rooms aren't warming up. I had the boiler set to 1 yesterday (immersion heater can't come on), i had the thermostat set to 20, the temperature kept falling down to 18 and would then take ages to go back up. I don't have access to the meters, so I can't tell you how much electricity was used in 24hrs. All I can go by is that 7 hour period from yesterday. The flat still wouldn't warm up though.

jasonoldy69 · Feb 22, 2015

Hi Misha

We're currently trying to get housing associations in our area to rip these units out. We don't have the F205, but we have the same models, 360P and F370. They too, over-ventilate the home and rely on the immersion heater.

A heating consultant that's working with us on our campaign has suggested a way to reduce energy use in the meantime:-

Block all your inlet wall vents.
Turn your boiler off completely.
Use space heaters where you would like warmth.
Wash your pots with your kettle.
When you need a shower, turn your boiler on and use the hot water boost for 30mins-1hr. Have your shower and turn the boiler off again.

By doing this, you've cut out 24hrs worth of unnecessary 100W ventilation. Your home will stay warm and draft free, and you're not exhausting away your warm air. Using the immersion for an hour will be better than have the compressor and immersion cutting in all day.

Hope this helps.

Also, you can have a standard energy meter connected directly to the boiler. That would be your best option if you wanted to monitor it still.

Misha · Feb 22, 2015

jasonoldy69 said:
Hi Misha

We're currently trying to get housing associations in our area to rip these units out. We don't have the F205, but we have the same models, 360P and F370. They too, over-ventilate the home and rely on the immersion heater.

A heating consultant that's working with us on our campaign has suggested a way to reduce energy use in the meantime:-

Block all your inlet wall vents.
Turn your boiler off completely.
Use space heaters where you would like warmth.
Wash your pots with your kettle.
When you need a shower, turn your boiler on and use the hot water boost for 30mins-1hr. Have your shower and turn the boiler off again.

By doing this, you've cut out 24hrs worth of unnecessary 100W ventilation. Your home will stay warm and draft free, and you're not exhausting away your warm air. Using the immersion for an hour will be better than have the compressor and immersion cutting in all day.

Hope this helps.

Also, you can have a standard energy meter connected directly to the boiler. That would be your best option if you wanted to monitor it still.

Hi Jason

Are you a plumber? Or are you a resident with a NIBE boiler?

Thanks for the energy saving tips! I have been afraid to turn the boiler off in case I damage it by doing so. I can't believe I've used so much energy, and I haven't felt any benefit! How did you find the heating consultant? I've spoken to a few people on the estate; some have had high bills while others haven't.

Where would I get a standard energy meter from?

Thanks!

jasonoldy69 · Feb 22, 2015

No, I'm not a plumber. I shareown a property with a NIBE 360P.

If you watched the BBC Rip Off Britain, the consultant is on their, Geoff Morgan. There's a website you can contact him through: search "ukheatpumpsolutions".

I've managed to group together almost 150 NIBE users in our area, pushing for something to be done. Some are paying £2k a year electric (If anyone says that's because of the user and not the boiler, I'll scream).

Those that think their bills are reasonable don't understand that their home is supposed to be cutting 25% off their bill compared to older homes. Heat pumps are supposed to be 300% efficient if they are to be used over gas. NIBE EAHPs are the only heat pumps on the market dirtier than coal!

By standard energy meter, I mean the meters you usually get to monitor your whole house. The ones were you clip a sensor somewhere on your fuse box, but in the case it's clipped on the power cable to the boiler.

Misha · Feb 23, 2015

jasonoldy69 said:
No, I'm not a plumber. I shareown a property with a NIBE 360P.

If you watched the BBC Rip Off Britain, the consultant is on their, Geoff Morgan. There's a website you can contact him through: search "ukheatpumpsolutions".

I've managed to group together almost 150 NIBE users in our area, pushing for something to be done. Some are paying £2k a year electric (If anyone says that's because of the user and not the boiler, I'll scream).

Those that think their bills are reasonable don't understand that their home is supposed to be cutting 25% off their bill compared to older homes. Heat pumps are supposed to be 300% efficient if they are to be used over gas. NIBE EAHPs are the only heat pumps on the market dirtier than coal!

By standard energy meter, I mean the meters you usually get to monitor your whole house. The ones were you clip a sensor somewhere on your fuse box, but in the case it's clipped on the power cable to the boiler.

Thanks - I'll try to contact the energy consultant.

Oh my goodness, as far as my landlord is concerned, there is no issue with the unit. Some of the other residents have had high bills but aren't willing to do anything about it. I said I'd like to get together and take some sort of group action, but no, nobody is interested :-S

My landlord has requested in writing that I leave the power supply to the Nibe unit on at all times. This is frustrating. I can't afford to waste electricity.

jasonoldy69 · Feb 23, 2015

Best thing to do, if you're on your own, is to start a formal complaint with your landlord. Is your landlord an individual or a housing association?

You want to get the Housing Ombudsman Service involved, but they only agree to help you if you've given your landlord a chance to resolve your problem.

Get some advice from Trading Standards or Citizens Advice.

I'm about to get a final decision from the Housing Ombudsman this week, but, it's taken a whole year for them to take action. Plus the year or so it took to get through my housing association's complaints process. So be aware that this is going to take some time.

Going legal is another option. But, without many people sharing the fees, it's not worth it.

Keep complaining, keeping bugging them, and something will eventually be done. Once you go quiet, they've won.

Misha · Feb 23, 2015

jasonoldy69 said:
Best thing to do, if you're on your own, is to start a formal complaint with your landlord. Is your landlord an individual or a housing association?

You want to get the Housing Ombudsman Service involved, but they only agree to help you if you've given your landlord a chance to resolve your problem.

Get some advice from Trading Standards or Citizens Advice.

I'm about to get a final decision from the Housing Ombudsman this week, but, it's taken a whole year for them to take action. Plus the year or so it took to get through my housing association's complaints process. So be aware that this is going to take some time.

Going legal is another option. But, without many people sharing the fees, it's not worth it.

Keep complaining, keeping bugging them, and something will eventually be done. Once you go quiet, they've won.

Thanks for your fast response.

The landlord is a property developer. They have many properties and are funded by the HCA.

I can't afford to go legal, otherwise I would. I'm tired of this. I can't afford to stay at this place much longer. No way if i'm receiving huge bills, and it's really, really cold. When I woke up this morning, it was 12 degrees. i've had to turn the heating all the way down because I can't afford to pay bills of over 100 pounds. I just can't.

Good luck - I really hope you win your campaign.

jasonoldy69 · Feb 24, 2015

You can follow us on Facebook if you like "Ferriby Rise NIBE Problems".

You may, instead of complaining about cost, complain about its reliability. A number of units have been replaced in our area on the basis that they were unreliable.

If it is unable to maintain a comfortable temperature (20+ degrees c), and your developer has wasted time trying to get it to work for you, they may agree upon a replacement. By law, they are supposed to provide a working heating system. Do they offer to regularly maintain the unit as part of your tenancy?

doitmyself · Feb 24, 2015

It may be a long shot, but I wonder if the rads have been correctly sized for the low flow and return temperatures. At the recommended temperatures of 55C flow & 45C return a radiator will be producing 50% of the advertised output.

Misha · Feb 24, 2015

doitmyself said:
It may be a long shot, but I wonder if the rads have been correctly sized for the low flow and return temperatures. At the recommended temperatures of 55C flow & 45C return a radiator will be producing 50% of the advertised output.

What information would be needed to work out if the rads have been correctly sized? What exactly are flow and return temperatures? I don't really understand.

Misha · Feb 24, 2015

jasonoldy69 said:
You can follow us on Facebook if you like "Ferriby Rise NIBE Problems".

You may, instead of complaining about cost, complain about its reliability. A number of units have been replaced in our area on the basis that they were unreliable.

If it is unable to maintain a comfortable temperature (20+ degrees c), and your developer has wasted time trying to get it to work for you, they may agree upon a replacement. By law, they are supposed to provide a working heating system. Do they offer to regularly maintain the unit as part of your tenancy?

As far as the developer is concerned, they don't believe the Nibe unit is functioning incorrectly. As for the maintenance issue, the housing association is going to get back to me. Repairs are dealt with by the property developer, not sure about regular maintenance of the unit.

itspaul · Feb 24, 2015

I have a fair amount of experience of these units and overall they are a good unit if they are used and setup properly they also need servicing annually which includes cleaning the air intakes in the kitchen and bathroom. And cleaning the filter in the unit regularly . Running on setting one just uses the heat pump.in colder weather number 2 brings in the immersion to boost the water temp to help the pump out. On number 3 it uses the immersion only not the heat pump this is an emergency setting if the heat pump has got a problem. The output is about 4 kW and flow temps of around 50 deg so it needs to be on all the time with a set back temp at night this is setup using the nibe controller / programmable stat these are a pain to set up if your not used to them but if you can get it set up properly they are a reliable unit and do the job

Misha · Feb 25, 2015

itspaul said:
I have a fair amount of experience of these units and overall they are a good unit if they are used and setup properly they also need servicing annually which includes cleaning the air intakes in the kitchen and bathroom. And cleaning the filter in the unit regularly . Running on setting one just uses the heat pump.in colder weather number 2 brings in the immersion to boost the water temp to help the pump out. On number 3 it uses the immersion only not the heat pump this is an emergency setting if the heat pump has got a problem. The output is about 4 kW and flow temps of around 50 deg so it needs to be on all the time with a set back temp at night this is setup using the nibe controller / programmable stat these are a pain to set up if your not used to them but if you can get it set up properly they are a reliable unit and do the job

thanks for your response. Do the systems actually consume less energy than other heating systems? When I have the thermostat in the hallway set to 21 degrees and have the TRVs open fully on all radiators, the temperature in my lounge/kitchen area and bedroom gets to 16 degrees. Is that normal? And my lounge area radiator only gets hot at the top; it's cold at the bottom. Is that what is meant to happen?

jasonoldy69 · Feb 25, 2015

itspaul said:
but if you can get it set up properly they are a reliable unit and do the job

At a cost.

doitmyself · Feb 25, 2015

Misha said:
What information would be needed to work out if the rads have been correctly sized? What exactly are flow and return temperatures? I don't really understand.

Ideally, you need to know the heat loss in each room. However, the total heat loss in the flat should be enough You can find this out by using Baxi Whole House Boiler Size Calculator.

Information on typical radiators can be found on page 44 of Stelrad Catalogue

Post the information.

Flow and Return Temperatures

The flow temperature is the temperature of the heated water leaving the boiler and travelling to the radiators.
Heat is extracted from the water by the radiators, so the water temperature leaving the rads and returning to the boiler is lower. This is the return temperature.

The output of a radiator depends on the temperatures of the water entering and leaving the rad. So this is standardised at 75C flow and 65C return. If different temperatures are used a formula is used to calculate the rad output.

itspaul · Feb 25, 2015

It's also important with these systems that the circulating pump is working correctly and the flow rates are not to high

itspaul · Feb 25, 2015

jasonoldy69 said:
At a cost.

Well cop is 3.3. So a properly designed and maintained system should give out 3.3 kW of heat for ever 1 kW of electricity used according to man data.
http://www.nibe.co.uk/nibedocuments/10591/031977-1.pdf

jasonoldy69 · Feb 25, 2015

doitmyself said:
Ideally, you need to know the heat loss in each room. However, the total heat loss in the flat should be enough You can find this out by using .

Information on typical radiators can be found on page 44 of

Post the information.

Flow and Return Temperatures

The flow temperature is the temperature of the heated water leaving the boiler and travelling to the radiators.
Heat is extracted from the water by the radiators, so the water temperature leaving the rads and returning to the boiler is lower. This is the return temperature.

The output of a radiator depends on the temperatures of the water entering and leaving the rad. So this is standardised at 75C flow and 65C return. If different temperatures are used a formula is used to calculate the rad output.

Bare in mind, this boiler is ventilating the property 24 hours a day, most of which is unrecovered. This is why homes with EAHPs are unable to maintain a decent temperature.

Misha · Feb 26, 2015

doitmyself said:
Ideally, you need to know the heat loss in each room. However, the total heat loss in the flat should be enough You can find this out by using Baxi Whole House Boiler Size Calculator.

Information on typical radiators can be found on page 44 of Stelrad Catalogue

Post the information.

Flow and Return Temperatures

The flow temperature is the temperature of the heated water leaving the boiler and travelling to the radiators.
Heat is extracted from the water by the radiators, so the water temperature leaving the rads and returning to the boiler is lower. This is the return temperature.

The output of a radiator depends on the temperatures of the water entering and leaving the rad. So this is standardised at 75C flow and 65C return. If different temperatures are used a formula is used to calculate the rad output.

Great - thank you so much for the info and the links.

Misha · Feb 26, 2015

itspaul said:
It's also important with these systems that the circulating pump is working correctly and the flow rates are not to high

How will I know if the circulating pump is working correctly?

One of my radiators (the largest one) gets hot at the top but stays cold at the bottom? I've been told that is because the water flows through a pipe at the top of the radiator and then flows out of the radiator at the bottom. Does that sound right to you? Also, something I noticed today. The temperature gauge on the F205 said the temperature was 50 degrees. The TRVs on all of the radiators (one rad doesn't have a TRV) were completely closed at that point and the thermostat was on 14 degrees. I didn't use any hot water, and I opened all of the TRVs. The temperature on the gauge went down to 40 degrees in about 10 minutes. Should that happen?

doitmyself · Feb 27, 2015

Misha said:
Great - thank you so much for the info and the links.

So where are the results of your research?

doitmyself · Feb 27, 2015

Misha said:
One of my radiators (the largest one) gets hot at the top but stays cold at the bottom? I've been told that is because the water flows through a pipe at the top of the radiator and then flows out of the radiator at the bottom. Does that sound right to you?

Some systems do have one pipe connected to the top and the other to the bottom, but this is move prevalent on the continent. In the UK it is normal to have both pipes connected to the bottom.

However, heat rises, so the top of a rad will always be warmer than the bottom.

The temperature gauge on the F205 said the temperature was 50 degrees. The TRVs on all of the radiators (one rad doesn't have a TRV) were completely closed at that point and the thermostat was on 14 degrees. I didn't use any hot water, and I opened all of the TRVs. The temperature on the gauge went down to 40 degrees in about 10 minutes. Should that happen?

If all TRVs closed no heat is being removed from the water by those rads, which leaves one rad to give off any heat. So the water temperature (return) will not drop very far. As soon as tyou open the TRVs the rads give off heat, and the return temperature drops. The boiler then heats the water up.

Did the temperature stay constant at 40 or did it rise?

jasonoldy69 · Feb 27, 2015

itspaul said:
Well cop is 3.3. So a properly designed and maintained system should give out 3.3 kW of heat for ever 1 kW of electricity used according to man data.

In theory, yes. In practice, it's nowhere near COP 3. It's closer to 1.5 in most cases.

Don't forget, this a Swedish product installed in standard British housing. Swedish homes are 1000% more air tight. The fact they've needlessly punched "fresh air inlets" in these homes, reduces air tightness further.

If you called NIBE UK today, and asked them to confirm the COP value, I guarantee you won't get a straight answer.

jasonoldy69 · Mar 3, 2015

NIBE EAHPs will be featuring on BBC again, this year.

I may be able to post more news regarding current and future NIBE installations, in the coming weeks, hopefully to the delight of thousands of unhappy users.

Misha · Mar 23, 2015

doitmyself said:
So where are the results of your research?

Sorry about the delay. I haven't calculated anything yet as I have no idea what size the property is. When someone visits me, we'll get a tape measure out to measure everything. I had a look at the radiator catalogue, but I couldn't find a radiator like mine.

Misha · Mar 23, 2015

doitmyself said:
Some systems do have one pipe connected to the top and the other to the bottom, but this is move prevalent on the continent. In the UK it is normal to have both pipes connected to the bottom.

However, heat rises, so the top of a rad will always be warmer than the bottom.

If all TRVs closed no heat is being removed from the water by those rads, which leaves one rad to give off any heat. So the water temperature (return) will not drop very far. As soon as tyou open the TRVs the rads give off heat, and the return temperature drops. The boiler then heats the water up.

Did the temperature stay constant at 40 or did it rise?

The temperature did rise eventually. i'm confused; I didn't think the water for the rads came from the hot water cylinder. I thought it was only water for taps that came from the hot water cylinder...

jasonoldy69 · Mar 23, 2015

Misha said:
The temperature did rise eventually. i'm confused; I didn't think the water for the rads came from the hot water cylinder. I thought it was only water for taps that came from the hot water cylinder...

The unit has a cylinder, with another hot water cylinder wrapped round it (double-jacket).

If I'm right in remembering, the inner cylinder feeds water for the radiators, the outer one is your domestic hot water store.

Unregistered · Mar 23, 2015

jasonoldy69 said:
The unit has a cylinder, with another hot water cylinder wrapped round it (double-jacket).

If I'm right in remembering, the inner cylinder feeds water for the radiators, the outer one is your domestic hot water store.

Ohhh. So which cylinder does the gauge relate to?

jasonoldy69 · Mar 23, 2015

Unregistered said:
Ohhh. So which cylinder does the gauge relate to?

I guess the gauge on the f205 is domestic hot water.

P.S. I'm sorry about the private messaging. This rotten site only lets you store 1-2 messages at a time.

Misha · Mar 23, 2015

jasonoldy69 said:
I guess the gauge on the f205 is domestic hot water.

P.S. I'm sorry about the private messaging. This rotten site only lets you store 1-2 messages at a time.

No worries about the private messaging.

I thought it would be measuring domestic hot water. That's why I got so confused when the temp dropped as soon as I turned the rads on.

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