Discuss Side Entry Ball Valves (2 of 2) in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

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ShaunCorbs

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water board regs and wras regs people plz need to be 1000000000000000% right which way i go :D

Note This Is A Commercial Setting Eg Schools Etc Where High Traffic Is Normal

during the schools shut down (aka school hols) 3 (me, building inspector and water-board) of us went round inspecting the water and heating systems in schools, we do this every 3 years to look for problems and check water meters etc,

went to a well brand new school (2 years old approx) everything ok heating and meter wise etc, the last thing we have to check is toilets, undo the the concealed panels takes the lid off the cistern, water board guy takes a look for wasting water etc (jobs-worth :D) and see a brass ball valve (part 1) extended arm (which i love brass ball valves because theres less wear and easy to change parts but thats going off point :D) and hes says thats illegal so i take a look and theres a dcv on the incoming main just after the iso and hes still said its illegal as water can still back flow.

now before i challenge him i want to make sure im right and dont want to charge the local a shed load to change every valve in the school if i am

summary can you use a part 1 with a dcv and be water regs ok etc

P1BV54.jpg


if no what ball valve can i fit needs to have an extended arm (float arm) and would like it brass if pos, because he also said you cant use one of these with the plastic silence tube on as that one can back flow (part 3)

torbeck_38th_european_side_entry_float_valve.gif


i think i have made it as clear as i pos can
any q please ask
 
As far I was aware, part 1 valves are not wras approved no matter if there's a dcv or not. An argument could be if the dcv failed, it could back flow. So will have to be either a part 2 or a fluidmaster type ballvalve..
 
anyone like to comment?????????
 
go look in the wras book sold on amazon, covers every reg, mines in the van at present :)
 
go look in the wras book sold on amazon, covers every reg, mines in the van at present :)

already looked the one i have says part 1 with dcv is ok :D now hes telling me no have they been updated ??????????
 
So what your saying is that you can no longer use a part 1 and dcv on a cold water supply connected directly to the mains
 
Gonna look at my book.. Back soon
 
So what your saying is that you can no longer use a part 1 and dcv on a cold water supply connected directly to the mains

yes or tank cant be used where water is involved
 
Yes sadly the jobsworth is right cant use a part 1 just use an adjustable arm part 2 from williams its what I use on syphon cisterns.
This is it.
8576d42502f79e22dc2982fa68922d35.jpg
 
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Any chancd sombody could explain me why we are not allowed to use a brass float arm ? What is a dcv ?
 
Yes sadly the jobsworth is right cant use a part 1 just use an adjustable arm part 2 from williams its what I use on syphon cisterns.
This is it.
8576d42502f79e22dc2982fa68922d35.jpg

the problem is if i have to change them they would need to have an extended arm as most of them are plastic cisterns

and also is it right you cant use type 3 with the plastic bag tube either sol???????????
 
Any chancd sombody could explain me why we are not allowed to use a brass float arm ? What is a dcv ?
Dcv is a back flow prevention device.
Double check valve.
You can use brass float arms but they have to be part 2 tyoe and not part 1 as part 2 can not cause back syphoning as the water outlet from the valve set us at the top typically from a pkastic arm where as part 1 the water exits tge valve from a hole on the bottom that could come in to contact with the stored water in the custern and resukt in back syohoning and contamination of a mains water supply.
 
Is that generally not use those with the plastic bag or just in your case ?
 
the problem is if i have to change them they would need to have an extended arm as most of them are plastic cisterns

and also is it right you cant use type 3 with the plastic bag tube either sol???????????
Yes also correct as they can and do back syphon.
Why the extended arm? Are the cisterns a special shape or size?
 
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Thanks first of all,

Basically I will need to install wherever I go the extended arm version to prevent back flow and also too installing a double check valve ?
 
Dcv is a back flow prevention device.
Double check valve.
You can use brass float arms but they have to be part 2 tyoe and not part 1 as part 2 can not cause back syphoning as the water outlet from the valve set us at the top typically from a pkastic arm where as part 1 the water exits tge valve from a hole on the bottom that could come in to contact with the stored water in the custern and resukt in back syohoning and contamination of a mains water supply.
Another reason for having to use part 2 is often you have to bend the brass arm in order to set the water level correctly and this, as far as regs go, is not acceptable as it weakens the arm which could become brittle and break...
 
Thanks first of all,

Basically I will need to install wherever I go the extended arm version to prevent back flow and also too installing a double check valve ?
The type you will need to install is known as a part 2 valve. Looks like this
5eaea93f90a74081b5922d334026b2f2.jpg

Or also like this
93d4f32ada2d5d1dadd20b2098c95ecd.jpg
You dont need to also fit a dcv if using this valve.
 
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Yes also correct as they can and do back syphon.
Why the extended arm? Are the cisterns a special shape or size?

yes plastic duo shells wider than normal so a normal part 2 the ball would be where the hole for the flush is
 
Alright, talked enough ...

For me is clear now I will use part 2 including a double check valve instead isolation valve and I am on the safe side. That's all I wanted to know cheers all for the massive help
 
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But it's better to use a ISO valve before double check in case the double check is gone
 
Might have to resort to a plastic part 2.

was thinking that can you get a decent one because the ones ive seen are crud but then my thinking is that can still back up water level will have to be a bit higher but could still happen
 
the position of where the water exits the valve...
 
was thinking that can you get a decent one because the ones ive seen are crud but then my thinking is that can still back up water level will have to be a bit higher but could still happen
Even if they have a piped overflow set too high the water level would normally spill over the syphon in to the pan before it reached the outlet on a part 2.
 
I am so happy we do not have such issues in Germany we hardly have tanks in the loft ... Gravity dies out there ... Most of the time we have geberit frames for toilets ...
 
Alright, talked enough ...

For me is clear now I will use part 2 including a double check valve instead isolation valve and I am on the safe side. That's all I wanted to know cheers all for the massive help
You don't need a dcv if using a part 2
 
Even if they have a piped overflow set too high the water level would normally spill over the syphon in to the pan before it reached the outlet on a part 2.

it does now with a part 1 thats what i couldn't understand
 
What will happen in the to me if I use a wrong float valve ?
 
I am so happy we do not have such issues in Germany we hardly have tanks in the loft ... Gravity dies out there ... Most of the time we have geberit frames for toilets ...
Yes and surface mounted issolators for almost everything and the little magnetic tile panels in the side of the bath to hide the floor gulley, loads of bathrooms I have been to in germany have the washing machine in them too. You do lots of things differently many of them better by design.
 
thnx guys looks like ive got the job do doing them :(
 
Yes and surface mounted issolators for almost everything and the little magnetic tile panels in the side of the bath to hide the floor gulley, loads of bathrooms I have been to in germany have the washing machine in them too. You do lots of things differently many of them better by design.

Yeah that's true ... That's why I struggle sometimes with British standards. Yes washing machine is most of the time in the bathroom too ... Also we have got 220v in bathrooms not 16v for shaving ;)
 
Alright, talked enough ...

For me is clear now I will use part 2 including a double check valve instead isolation valve and I am on the safe side. That's all I wanted to know cheers all for the massive help

I'm not sure if you missed out or worded this wrong but you should always use a service valve \ isolation valve
Before any appliance\tap\cwsc... then any check valves or other valves required

As every outlet should have the ability to be independently isolated although not always possible or practical
 
Another reason for having to use part 2 is often you have to bend the brass arm in order to set the water level correctly and this, as far as regs go, is not acceptable as it weakens the arm which could become brittle and break...

That's one reason I heard, - yet when you think about it, to replace a nice solid all brass part 1 valve with a part 2 brass valve will mean you have a diaphragm washer in it that will fail in a fairly short time, plus a plastic pin that can jam, plus an awful silly water outlet made of plastic
that can crack or snap off and shoot high pressure water straight up when valve opens. Bad job in a toilet cistern or worse in any tank with no lid.
Not an improvement IMO. An overflow on a cwt can & should be fitted at same level or just a tad below ballvalve to prevent water passing the ballvalve through threads or rising above it.
These modern ideas are just stupid & probably often invented from Europe.
 
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I'm not sure if you missed out or worded this wrong but you should always use a service valve \ isolation valve
Before any appliance\tap\cwsc... then any check valves or other valves required

As every outlet should have the ability to be independently isolated although not always possible or practical
If only this was the case.. But worse still when people use the all plastic pushfit valves and the plastic slotted bit you turn sheers and renders it unusable.. *grunt* I hate them!
 
A tank is a receptacle for storing water and an air gap is what it says.
Neither know if their purpose is to flush a WC , feed a DHW cylinder or act as F&E.
Can anyone explain why a ball valve deemed safe for the latter two is unsafe on a WC cistern.
As for bending the arm, I have yet to break one but often ripple a copper tube. If this logic continues the commercial interests that sell us fittings will persuade the regulators that bending tube should be banned.
 
"You shouldn't put ideas into my head".
And the sad thing is Ray if you suggested it some committee would approve it.
 
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