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A new build should have 2 heating zones
Thanks for the information. This is exactly why im on here
Discuss New build first fix help needed in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net
A new build should have 2 heating zones
Would you care to explain your disagreement x David. Regards kopThis is how I do it no joins in the wall and can be dot and dabbed over . Cheers kop
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Any particular reason the pipes couldn't come out from floor straight in to valves on the first pictureThis is how I do it no joins in the wall and can be dot and dabbed over . Cheers kop
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Any particular reason the pipes couldn't come out from floor straight in to valves on the first pictureThis is how I do it no joins in the wall and can be dot and dabbed over . Cheers kop
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i mean straight up from the floor in 15mm copper seems pointless putting them in the wall when you don’t have to or am I missing somethingYes mate the 10mm collapses and kinks .
Any particular reason the pipes couldn't come out from floor straight in to valves on the first picture
i mean straight up from the floor in 15mm copper seems pointless putting them in the wall when you don’t have to or am I missing something
Yes mate 10mm I have done it with 15mm from a loft void as below , but the first post was a refurb on two flats above a shop the walls were dot and dabbed over with insulated plaster board then skimmed there are no joins other than the manifold in the hallway cupboard just made sense as the floor voids were insulated with rockwool the boards put back , 10mm ply laid on top then a plank type vinyl flooring laid. Kop
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I survived bud not a big fan of plastic I will only use hep2o , as I said before with all the layers of floor materials and the walls being insulated I though that was best joins in the pipework were kept to a minimum and pipework was all hidden away . KopNice neat work KOP, did you have sore neck from crouching and bending doing that?
No, not since April 2014.
That depends on house size and it doesn't say zones aren't required, it's says trvs at a minimum are deemed acceptable for zoning.No, not since April 2014.
Yes so if your below 150m2 then trvs only are fine. That's the way I understand the regs anyway.Yes if it’s over 150m2 it’ll need to be zoned and controlled by two different room stats linked to 2 port valves.
Well yes Trv’s are a must anyway, but being 110m2 it doesn’t need to be zoned via 2 port valves which is what people are implying by saying all new builds must be zoned.
Has any house been finished/signed off yet? I'd bring it to the developers attention, remember that if your installing the systems, it's up to you to make sure they comply with the latest requirements.In regards to new builds requiring zoning I'm working on a Cala development with a minimum of 5 bed house and not one house type is zoned. Where as the site i was on before was 1/2 bed social housing and was zoned. Zone 1 was living room, kitchen, bathroom & hall. Zone 2 bedroom. Seemed pointless to me at the time.
Yeah mate, there a into the 3rd phase with other 100 houses signed and handed over. The system is ASHP with hyprid boiler with an unvented indirect cylinder. I've not asked the agent yet but i think it's more to do with SEDBUK rating witch CH zoning obvisouly improbe as does ASHP. I'll find out more. I'm in Scotland also which might make a difference.Has any house been finished/signed off yet? I'd bring it to the developers attention, remember that if your installing the systems, it's up to you to make sure they comply with the latest requirements.
Have been sadly let down by a plumber and doing the first fix for a new build. I have questions regarding the correct procedure for chasing in pipework behind what will be dot and dabbed..
Its 3 bed bungalow with 9 radiators in total.
I was planning on running lagged plastic22mm flow / returns in the roof space to and tee off 15s for each radiator. Some of which are underneath windows.
1. How deep do you usually chase when its being dot and dabbed? And do you also just take a notch out of the wall plate?
2. Would you chase one larger channel and run both pipes in the same place?
Does the plastic need to be insulated or ducted in some way so it could potentially be removed at a later date?
3. The rads will be attached to chrome.. would compression fittings with liquid ptfe be ok to use to connect the chrome to plastic? But obvioulsy this wont be able to be removed at a later date without pulling the wall apart.
4. How would you chase it in? Straight line down the wall with an elbow at rad pipe height?
Finally anything else ive overlooked / missing? How would you usually approach this job?
Thanks in advance for any help
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