Discuss Passable work or bodge job!? in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

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Hi, just trying to get an opinion on some plumbing the bathroom/kitchen fitter is in the process of fitting for our new sink, shower & rad.

First pic is cold supply coming in through the wall from the toilet next door. There are double joists right under the stud wall, hence coming in hidden in the wall. Not keen on the speedfit joint.

Second pic shows the spaghetti junction of the remaining pipes. Of most concern is the copper radiator return pipe with the speedfit joint sitting on top of the joist!

Haven't spoken to the guy yet and I think the pipe is just about covered once he fills in the case but surely that joint will stop him from sticking the floorboard back on as I think it'll be proud of the wall.

Any advice gratefully received! Especially if there's a different way he can route it. Need to know if this is passable or I need to get him to rectify.

Cheers!

IMG_20190211_191144.jpg


IMG_20190211_191132.jpg
 
Hi, just trying to get an opinion on some plumbing the bathroom/kitchen fitter is in the process of fitting for our new sink, shower & rad.

First pic is cold supply coming in through the wall from the toilet next door. There are double joists right under the stud wall, hence coming in hidden in the wall. Not keen on the speedfit joint.

Second pic shows the spaghetti junction of the remaining pipes. Of most concern is the copper radiator return pipe with the speedfit joint sitting on top of the joist!

Haven't spoken to the guy yet and I think the pipe is just about covered once he fills in the case but surely that joint will stop him from sticking the floorboard back on as I think it'll be proud of the wall.

Any advice gratefully received! Especially if there's a different way he can route it. Need to know if this is passable or I need to get him to rectify.

Cheers!

View attachment 36909

View attachment 36910

Fact is, any push fit joint under perm tension, as these are, is a weak joint. The manu specifically advises against it.

Personally I'd prefer copper under floor where there are inaccessible
 
Cheers for the replies. If it came straight in through the wall in copper what would he be able to do different? The feed in the toilet is copper, then splits after feeding the toilet to plastic pipe and just pokes through the stud wall and into the wall in the bathroom as shown in the photo.
 
Well he could do a joint in copper in the wall which would be preferable. You say you don’t like the speedfit joint but do you know why??
 
No reason other than it'll be buried in the wall.

Regarding all the joints under the floor, it's a tricky one and I'm no plumber but cold feed is coming in through the wall then needs to split to feed shower and then sink. Can't see how he'd do it any other way? Told me it's all Speedfit these days for stuff that's not visible. The hot feed comes in from the opposite end of the room, hence spaghetti junction in the middle!
 
No reason other than it'll be buried in the wall.

Regarding all the joints under the floor, it's a tricky one and I'm no plumber but cold feed is coming in through the wall then needs to split to feed shower and then sink. Can't see how he'd do it any other way? Told me it's all Speedfit these days for stuff that's not visible. The hot feed comes in from the opposite end of the room, hence spaghetti junction in the middle!
It is only speedfit where not seen if it is the engineers preference mate. I run in copper myself.
 
That's what I'm thinking. Hence me asking whether it's passable. Spoke to his boss and they said they'll push the radiator return pipe further into the wall to clear for the floorboards.
If the return pipe is the one resting on the joist. I wouldn’t push it further into the wall. I would move it so that it is inside the same notch that the speedfit is in. It is big enough.
 
That was all I meant you don’t want a plastic joint in the wall but if the incoming is plastic you have little option
 
If the return pipe is the one resting on the joist. I wouldn’t push it further into the wall. I would move it so that it is inside the same notch that the speedfit is in. It is big enough.
Yes it is. So where the copper drops down from the left hand radiator valve, instead of turning right, just drop further down and follow the joist to the notch in the joist with the other speedfit. Should I tell him to change the cold feed in the wall from plastic to copper and weld the joint? Is a push fit joint in the wall a massive no no? Thanks for the help so far, hugely appreciated
 
As Yorks Dave, the Speedfit joints look to be under strain.
Some additional support with clips may help, as below, particularly if it's mains pressure as the pipework will pulse as showers and WC inlets open and close.
Anywhere speedfit joins copper, the Speedfit and or joint will move the copper won't.

Bathroom floor.jpg
 
If you've written that at 3am you know the answer already.
Is he qualified and insured for plumbing work?
 
Let's just say that he's an 'approved fitter' for a certain large bathroom and kitchen company. He's now changed the joint in the wall to a solder and the water feed from the toilet to copper. The rest is the same, I think it'll be ok, doesn't look under strain when you're standing over it. The pipe on the joist he dropped down a few mm by shaving a bit of the joist, not the best I know but I think if I go back again and tell him to re-route he'll **** me!!
 
And you can see they’re under. Strain Speed fit is designed for quick installation it’s not designed to be pulled on tight bends
 
Just to point out here that I assumed the whole installation was by your plumber. If I was wrong I apologise.

If you require them to reconfigure existing pipework then you will, rightly, incur additional cost. That said, it should not be unreasonable and you will have a better safer installation as a consequence.
 
Just to point out here that I assumed the whole installation was by your plumber. If I was wrong I apologise.

If you require them to reconfigure existing pipework then you will, rightly, incur additional cost. That said, it should not be unreasonable and you will have a better safer installation as a consequence.
Basically the bathroom and kitchen was first installed by different fitters and was a total bodge job. This guy has been sent to rectify and reinstall everything. The new Speedfit plastic pipe work wasn't done by this guy, he chased the radiator pipes into the wall and joined them to the existing pipes laid by the first fitters. Originally the cold water feed came straight in on plastic pipe in an arc, kinda 40 degrees or so and dropped under the floorboards, and just plastered over!

I do feel sorry for him as I'm braking his balls over everything given the first installation was a nightmare.
 
If he’s there to rectify then he will understand where you are coming from. Jut lots of “I know it’s not your fault but...” and tea goes a long way.
All a bit frosty at the moment but not a total breakdown. We're all a bit stressed for obvious reasons. Them because they're picking up someone else's Rubbish and me because I have to make sure it's all done right this time. Thanks for all the replies and advice.
 
It might be worth a chat to explain what you expect and what they are doing. If they are a new company correcting someone else’s mess they should be cut a bit of slack to be fair.
My thinking too, hence why I didn't go back and tell him to change the radiator flow and return pipes which curve. I reckon they'll be ok as the water pressure won't be as much as the hot/cold feeds to the shower. May come back and haunt me I know!
 
Are you on a sealed system?? Also as the pipes heat and cool they expand and contract this is equally disturbing to the o rings as the pipes will move. Albeit fractionally but it still moves
 
So it’s at a sealed system at a minimum of 1bar rising to 2-2.5 when hot. Up to you
You've lost me on that one I'm afraid! In my mind the chances of one of the O rings popping is relatively small. Just want him to get on with the rest of the job. We're in a Victorian property, it's amazing to me all the little bodges and quick fixes hidden under the floorboards, the ceilings and walls! You can get too stressed over every minute detail of a job and it just ends up with a Soded off workman
 
Ok up to you but your heating could conceivably rise pressure wise to 2.5 bar which is likely higher than your incoming mains. For the sake of two elbows I’d change it. And the minute details as you call them can often be the difference between a good and a bad job
 
In my honest opinion, I wouldn’t be concealing a speedfit joint. The copper to the radiator needs to be protected from corrosion and movement (clipped).

The water regulations state the following:

No pipe shall be embedded in any wall or solid floor without meeting certain conditions.

No pipe shall be installed in a way it may become unduly warmed.

https://www.wras.co.uk/downloads/pu...eral/para_7_guidance_version_2_july_2014.pdf/

Since the original picture, the plastic feed coming into the room through the wall has been changed to copper and the Speedfit elbow dropping the pipe down is now soldered copper. It switches to plastic pipe once under the floor. The plastic joint on the right hand side of the radiator flow is now in the void between the joists. Only thing that will be buried now is soldered copper piping.
 

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