A
Aldred1990
hi guys what size drill bit would you recommend for drilling the hole for 15mm copper pipe. thanks
Discuss outside tap in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net
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N
nysk2008
15mm pipe, plus a sleeve so minimum 23mm
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Phil_Plumb
about 25mm
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110 mm core bit
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Phil_Plumb
hahah thats a bit keen hammers?
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Just future proofing for any possible ventilation requirements
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woodytheplumber
I use a marcrist 28mm core drill no breakout then usually sleeve 15 mm water pipe with a bit of overflow quick seal with brown lma job done
M
Mike Jackson
Makes sense really. If you use one of those kits from the sheds there's be no need to isolate and drain down in the winter. Just put it back in the warm through the 110mm hole. Could save the householder a fortune in burst pipe repairs.
K
kirkgas
It's only water haha
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If you can gain access to Makro, these drills are £10.89+vat. They are also available in 450mm for £7.49+vat.
They might struggle on solid concrete but for normal household bricks and blocks, they have never let me down.
If you can gain access to Makro, these drills are £10.89+vat. They are also available in 450mm for £7.49+vat.
They might struggle on solid concrete but for normal household bricks and blocks, they have never let me down.
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Aldred1990
thanks a lot guys :smile5:
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Plum Bob 66
22 mm core drill, nice n neat.
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Dotty
Keep it tight and use this, for best job ever.
Agreed, still needs to be sleeved though.
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smtplumbing
neat keefy, why sleeve it alot folk do and dont some time i do some i dont,
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TomLane
I use this too & also as said the 24mm x1000mm bit from stoolstation. Again also sleeve it, preferably in plastic. Makes for easier removal & stops the copper pipe corroding IMO.
Keep it tight and use this, for best job ever.
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Of course - iso' and a drain cock too in cases where the pipe has to come into the tap from below.
Edit: Thought you were asking if that tap of mine had one fitted but if you're wondering why the diagram shows a DCV on the inside that's because the ones built into the taps are susceptible to freezing so you're now required to fit them inside the buildings envelope. Taps that incorporate an in-built check valve should now only be fitted as replacements or suitably protected from the elements.
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lame plumber
my only issue is that you cant drain the water out over the winter if you pipe it upto the tap
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smtplumbing
i run my pipework right that, to allow the water to stop freezing
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sleeve or tape tho imho
just helps stop any possible corrosive activity
just helps stop any possible corrosive activity
Drain off inside?
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Which is why I fit a drain cock too.
L
lame plumber
cheaper to pipe downwards and open the tap to drain it
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cheaper to pipe downwards and open the tap to drain it
I agree but if a customer wants it fairly high up and your coming from under the kitchen sink unit you have to compromise and add an extra few quid on the bill. Been asked a couple of times if I could keep it high to avoid kids' heads bashing into them.
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Plum Bob 66
I have always sleeved as best practice, particularly down to the corrosive effects of the brick mortar in copper piping.
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I used to use a piece of 22mm copper as a sleeve but decided that if the cement/mortar is particularly corrosive then all you're doing by using a copper sleeve is postponing the innevitable leak that could arise. Plus electrical conduit is dirt cheap and looks neater.
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Plum Bob 66
Ditto that.
A
Aldred1990
will this do the job Tower Conduit Heavy Gauge 20mm x 2m Length Black | NoLinkingToThis
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Dotty
Yep..
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How come whenever outside tap threads pop up on this forum it causes countless responses over how to do it from experienced plumbers
First year apprentice stuff imho
First year apprentice stuff imho
M
mountainman
Ask any ten professionals the same question and you'll get nine differing answers
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Dotty
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K
Kyle87
I've gave up saying how long things should take. With plumbing its never the same story from one job to another.
I changed a rad to a towel warmer.
Had to rip up laminate flooring in the bedroom next door so I could alter pipework.
It takes as long as it takes!!
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How long's a piece of string? If you want to fit one of those cheap and nasty efforts from Block & Quayle then 3 minutes and 6 seconds, if you want to do it the right way then anything from an hour to 5 hours. Not kidding - one customer wanted one fitted because she was having a garden party that afternoon, I was still there for the party. Bar steward of a job to do it was but got more work from the drunk guests.
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Plum Bob 66
True, but how often have you gone to a job to put some other numptys work right, that should have known better or witnesses bad practice from the very same ? It's a basic instal that should set a professional precedent.
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Dotty
How long's a piece of string? If you want to fit one of those cheap and nasty efforts from Block & Quayle then 3 minutes and 6 seconds, if you want to do it the right way then anything from an hour to 5 hours. Not kidding - one customer wanted one fitted because she was having a garden party that afternoon, I was still there for the party. Bar steward of a job to do it was but got more work from the drunk guests.
I was joking! Chris gets a point.
Kyle and Keefy go to the back of the queue!
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Phil_Plumb
Haha yes it can be seen as only an outside tap, but i agree, it should set the standards and satisfy the precedents of a professional install.
on a new installation, it should follow: ISO, DCV, through suitable sleeving and into tap, and yes if piping up to tap a DOC should be fitted, not only does it look professional, its common courtesy for the next plumber, who may be called round to change said tap, as it makes it easier for him (or may be you if you get repeat custom) to do a neat job without spilling a drop of water!
on a new installation, it should follow: ISO, DCV, through suitable sleeving and into tap, and yes if piping up to tap a DOC should be fitted, not only does it look professional, its common courtesy for the next plumber, who may be called round to change said tap, as it makes it easier for him (or may be you if you get repeat custom) to do a neat job without spilling a drop of water!
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Not forgetting consideration of the equipotential zone for bonding or insulated break.
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