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Aldred1990

hi guys what size drill bit would you recommend for drilling the hole for 15mm copper pipe. thanks
 
I use a marcrist 28mm core drill no breakout then usually sleeve 15 mm water pipe with a bit of overflow quick seal with brown lma job done
 
110 mm core bit

Makes sense really. If you use one of those kits from the sheds there's be no need to isolate and drain down in the winter. Just put it back in the warm through the 110mm hole. Could save the householder a fortune in burst pipe repairs.
 
Thinking about it, I'm lucky to see a gas pipe sleeved through a wall, let alone an outside tap...
 
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If you can gain access to Makro, these drills are Ā£10.89+vat. They are also available in 450mm for Ā£7.49+vat.
They might struggle on solid concrete but for normal household bricks and blocks, they have never let me down.
 
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Keep it tight and use this, for best job ever.
 
I use a 16mm bit first followed by a 20mm bit and insert 20mm electrical conduit which the 15mm copper glides through:

Copyright_Keefy.jpg Pipe_Sleeve_20mm.jpg
 
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neat keefy, why sleeve it alot folk do and dont some time i do some i dont,
 
I use a 24x1000 bit available from Toolstation .
 
I use this too & also as said the 24mm x1000mm bit from stoolstation. Again also sleeve it, preferably in plastic. Makes for easier removal & stops the copper pipe corroding IMO.

!CCHBe-gBGk~$(KGrHqJ,!lYEz+y84ofTBNKHmI,k+!~~_1.JPG
Keep it tight and use this, for best job ever.
 
DCV fitted inside ?

Of course - iso' and a drain cock too in cases where the pipe has to come into the tap from below.

Edit: Thought you were asking if that tap of mine had one fitted but if you're wondering why the diagram shows a DCV on the inside that's because the ones built into the taps are susceptible to freezing so you're now required to fit them inside the buildings envelope. Taps that incorporate an in-built check valve should now only be fitted as replacements or suitably protected from the elements.
 
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i run my pipework right that, to allow the water to stop freezing
 
cheaper to pipe downwards and open the tap to drain it:)

I agree but if a customer wants it fairly high up and your coming from under the kitchen sink unit you have to compromise and add an extra few quid on the bill. Been asked a couple of times if I could keep it high to avoid kids' heads bashing into them.
 
I have always sleeved as best practice, particularly down to the corrosive effects of the brick mortar in copper piping.

I used to use a piece of 22mm copper as a sleeve but decided that if the cement/mortar is particularly corrosive then all you're doing by using a copper sleeve is postponing the innevitable leak that could arise. Plus electrical conduit is dirt cheap and looks neater.
 
I used to use a piece of 22mm copper as a sleeve but decided that if the cement/mortar is particularly corrosive then all you're doing by using a copper sleeve is postponing the innevitable leak that could arise. Plus electrical conduit is dirt cheap and looks neater.

Ditto that.
 
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