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For suction lift of 3m and a run of 25m it needs a 6mm internal bore pipe i.e. 8mm copper pipe.
 
For suction lift of 3m and a run of 25m it needs a 6mm internal bore pipe i.e. 8mm copper pipe.

The lift is somewhere between 2.5m and 3m at a second look, and the run could be 22m. How can you be sure that 8mm would do the job? A lot of others are saying 10mm is fine.

Correct me if i'm wrong but when the burner/pump is on and running well, the oil in the pipe would be right at the level of the tiger loop right? So why when the heat goes off overnight why would the oil run partially back down the pipe - surely pressure should keep it at the top? Or does the pump expect to find air first?
 
No need for a non return valve won't be helping draw
Take it off and try again if still not working right I'd have to say pump not working to well

Thanks Gray - that gives me something else to suggest to him. He's clearly running out of ideas here - rechecked the connections to the tiger loop / burner tonight. One suggestion to try replacing the flexible pipes (though they were new.)

The non return valve is much further down the pipe - it is maybe 2m from the oil tank. Would this still be affecting the draw?
 
If everything is right, the oil stays at the burner ready to fire next time, in an hour or 2 weeks. If the oil is running back there is air getting in. Somewhere on the flexi pipe connectors between the tigerloop and burner on either pipe there is a leak. Stop the leak and it will work providing the oil is manually drawn to the burner. If the smaller pipe is installed the burner pump will be able to drraw the oil on its own. As said remove non return valve.
 
PA072577.jpg

See the acual photo above, I'm hoping someone can see if there might be anything obvious wrong (unlikely I guess)
 
If everything is right, the oil stays at the burner ready to fire next time, in an hour or 2 weeks. If the oil is running back there is air getting in. Somewhere on the flexi pipe connectors between the tigerloop and burner on either pipe there is a leak. Stop the leak and it will work providing the oil is manually drawn to the burner. If the smaller pipe is installed the burner pump will be able to drraw the oil on its own. As said remove non return valve.

Surely removing the leak on the flexi pipe connectors will stop the air getting in so stop the oil running down therefore there would be no need to manually draw the oil to the pump?
 
!/. tigerloop on the inside
2/. what a mess
3/. no need to take the tigerloop as high as that
 
Surely removing the leak on the flexi pipe connectors will stop the air getting in so stop the oil running down therefore there would be no need to manually draw the oil to the pump?

Yes but the oil pump will have to work a lot harder than its designed to do
 
Shouldn't really add to his woes (unless he's not OFTEC registered) but I can't see a fire valve fitted either.

Don't think it's within regulations to fit a tiger loop inside a boiler, let alone inside the house (ones I've seen are outside the building), but I don't know the regulations of this without looking them up.

Surely the tiger loop came with instructions? All you have to do is follow them.

Hope you get the issue sorted before too long.
 
Shouldn't really add to his woes (unless he's not OFTEC registered) but I can't see a fire valve fitted either.

Don't think it's within regulations to fit a tiger loop inside a boiler, let alone inside the house (ones I've seen are outside the building), but I don't know the regulations of this without looking them up.

Surely the tiger loop came with instructions? All you have to do is follow them.

Hope you get the issue sorted before too long.

It's not really indoors - it's in an outside boilerhouse. As far as I am aware when I read the instructions after he put it in it is fine to put inside. He is aware of the fire valve (would this also be known as a fusible valve?) but he wants to get it working before introducing anything else.
 
00001.jpg

I've attached a photo of the Tiger loop when I turned the boiler on this morning. Again it fired for maybe 15s before cutting out. Notice the flow of air bubbles - I think this is not normal? Does this prove the air might be getting in through one of the flexible hoses?

Plan is to change those out tonight - but I'm wondering if there is anything else that could be wrong that might cause this (unless this is expected)
 
Just got back from holiday and seen thread. If I were you I would get an OFTEC bloke out and get the job done properly. The tigerloop should not be in any building the reason is it vents the fumes from the top of the tigerloop, so you could get the boilerhouse filled with fumes and could cause an explosion (unlikely but possible). Theer is a similar thing called a GOK which is designed to fit into a building and a bit more sophisticated. If you dont know who to believe on what you require or whether your setup will work ring anglo nordic who are the agents for tigerloop and also the GOK device.
[DLMURL="http://www.anglonordic.co.uk/catalog/index.php"]Gas and Oil Boiler Components, Parts and Spares[/DLMURL]
 
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... He is aware of the fire valve (would this also be known as a fusible valve?) but he wants to get it working before introducing anything else ...

I would never do that for the simple reason that if something did go wrong and a fire started, I doubt my insurance company would be happy to pay out due to my negligence - quite apart from the risk of injury or fatality. If something did occur I could never be at peace with myself.

While I appreciate the risk is small, it does have serious consequencies. Similar to not wearing a seatbelt where you're unlikely to have an accident but if you do ...

If he is OFTEC qualified he's not very responsible and if he isn't this is a primary reason why you're having problems.
 
The tiger loop is fine inside boiler house but the fire valve should be outside non
 
The tiger loop is fine inside boiler house
I have to disagree Gray0689 I asked the very same question years ago at OFTEC and I was told it should be fitted externally for the reason I mentioned.
 
I have to disagree Gray0689 I asked the very same question years ago at OFTEC and I was told it should be fitted externally for the reason I mentioned.

The fire valve (kbb) should be fitted outside of boiler house for the reason you mentioned not the tiger loop
 
The fire valve should be outside as you correctly said but the reason I said the tigerloop should be outside is because it vents fumes from the air vent in the top of it and you could get the boiler house filled with kerosene fumes which can ignite in the right circumstances. The oftec book 3 says must be fitted outside of a building, it does not say what constitutes a building so we have to assume that a boilerhouse is a building.
 
Aye, fire valve and that type of tiger loop external, if you want it inside then its a gok. For me anyway.
 
A boiler house is not a building we will agree to disagree to this lol
 
Tigerloop must be fitted EXTERNALLY IE OUTSIDE as it can vent vapour, which must not be sucked up by the boiler. Only the Tigerloop BIO can be installed inside and it has a vent pipe going outside. Tigerloop original instructions state it must be fitted externally.

Gray0689 - Look at your OFTEC installation manual - it always shows the deaeration device outside. If you still don't believe us all then phone OFTEC technical advice and ask them!

What a complete mess! NO remote sensing fire valve fitted either!!

COWBOY ALERT!
COWBOY ALERT!
COWBOY ALERT!

Guy is DEFNINTELY not registered, or else completely incompetent. If it hasn't been installed properly it could also be dangerous.

Go to Oil Firing Technical Association - registered professionals for the the oil heating and cooking industry - OFTEC, Kesgrave, Ipswich and find a technician in your area to do the job properly.
 
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Tigerloop must be fitted EXTERNALLY IE OUTSIDE as it can vent vapour, which must not be sucked up by the boiler

What a complete mess!

COWBOY ALERT!
COWBOY ALERT!
COWBOY ALERT!

Guy is DEFNINTELY not registered, and look incompetent. If it hasn't been installed properly it could also be dangerous.

Go to Oil Firing Technical Association - registered professionals for the the oil heating and cooking industry - OFTEC, Kesgrave, Ipswich and find a technician in your area to do the job properly.

I disagree it can be in boilerhouse as long as kbb on outside as per regs
 
Wrong - quote from the Tigerloop instructions:

Tigerloop Original - for external mounting only. This device is not permitted for indoor installation as it vents contaminated air into its surrounding environment, this could create explosion or health hazards in confined spaces and therefore must be fitted on the outside wall of any premises. For situation where the boiler is not mounted to the perimeter wall, use a Tigerloop Bio
 
Wrong - quote from the Tigerloop instructions:

Is a boiler house oil boiler classed as a building I will think you will find it's not or you would require planning permission for it you do it your way and I'll do it mine lol
 
A building is defined as any permanent or temporary structure which may be fully or partly enclosed, so yes a boilerhouse is a building. Nothing to do with building regulations or building control or whether you need planning permission or not.

Also you cannot argue that fitting the tigerloop inside a boiler house can be "external"

Still disagree? OK lets phone OFTEC and ask them for the definitive answer then to end the argument!
 
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Ring all you want I disagree
Boilerhouse external boiler I will still put them inside no mater what the flexi hoses rust and rot outside
 
Flexi hoses shouldn't be outside - you should know that as its in the OFTEC book - they are not to extend beyond the casing of the boiler. The tigerloop should be fitted with copper pipe. If you buy the tigerloop fitting kit you will get 3 no 10mm x 1/8" male compression fittings to go into the tigerloop.

If you want to carry on doing it the wrong way, that's up to you but just about everyone else on the forum is in agreement to the contrary.
 
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Well I've always been contrary can't see me changing now ps I always do it my way anyway lol
I'll stick to putting it inside the boiler case
 
The new eco versions of the tigerloops (this isn't one) can be fitted inside.
I'd put a fiver on no bypass screw fitted.

Prime by mouth....thats a beauty.
Last time i did that is when i "primed" my car out the van:lol:
 
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I bought my priming pump from Motor World (or maybe Halfords?) for about a fiver. Surely it's a basic bit of kit for an oil technician. Get your installation checked by a registered guy for safety as incorrectly fitted combustion appliances can be potentially fatal.
 
Thought I'd give an update on this. Basically he tested the pipe, replaced the non return valve, and I closed the valve to indicate the level of oil in the boiler.

One of these three things fixed the problem, heat has been running fine since. Hopefully it continues into the winter

Thanks all for your help, very much appreciated (he'd have had me moving the oil tank without the info I got off here)

Last question for those in the know - sections of the 10mm pipe, whether under the ground or out in air - do they need to be insulated?
 
Would be better in a sleeved pipe (especially the underground part).
 
You can purchase sleeved copper pipe just for the purpose. (10mm pipe sleeved with plastic to an overall diameter of around 15mm).
 
You can purchase sleeved copper pipe just for the purpose. (10mm pipe sleeved with plastic to an overall diameter of around 15mm).
- Yeah it is the sleeved copper pipe that he used : but bits where the sleeve has been stripped back for a joint for example - is there something to cover these (or indeed compression valves) or should I no worry?
 
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