Is a S flange out of the HWC really necessary ?

[realstokebloke]

If your existing pipe off the top of the cylinder runs horizontally straight from the top of the cylinder then a Warix flange is easiest. The top outlet is connected to a dip tube to avoid air entrapment.

The thread on the top of your cylinder will probably be 1" FI but could be 3/4.


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Yes, it has an elbow out of the top & then runs horizontally across.

So the Warrix needed is either 1" / 22mm (most likely) or 3/4" / 22mm then?

Is the " (inch) measurement across the fitting to check plse?

 

[realstokebloke]

Fine with that - i was told (elsewhere on here to avoid gates AND lever valves though?) and to get full bore iso's (the ones with a screw driver turn).

Too late on the "all nice neat copper etc" - i have run the other three in PEX (but it is very nice & neat also.)

 

[Best]

Fine with that - i was told (elsewhere on here to avoid gates AND lever valves though?) and to get full bore iso's (the ones with a screw driver turn)

Too late on the "all nice neat copper etc" - i have run the other three in PEX (but it is very nice & neat also.)

Lever valves are not as tamper proof as iso's with screw slot, but they are perfect for pump & other supplies & I doubt full bore iso's are all as good quality as levers.
No such thing as neat plastic pipes IMO, copper with soldered joints, machine bends & the pump hoses straight, is the real way! :grin:

 

[realstokebloke]

Pity! No such thing as neat plastic pipes IMO, copper with soldered joints, machine bends & the pump hoses straight, is the real way! :grin:

Well, the pump hoses are as straight as the horseguards at the palace at the weekend anyway.

I'll try a pic to show the pipe runs as well though, so you can scoff some more

Now, how do i tell what my fitting (in the top of the HWC) is without draining the whole caboodle & getting the old one out first plse?

 

[realstokebloke]

p.s if salamander require a comp elbow from cylinder then you will need to reroute your vertical outlet anyway, so you could do that and not bother with flange? s'up to you at end of the day. p.s how much was pump? i can get stu turners for only a few quid more from an independent merchant....look into it and maybe take the silly mander back :25:

No can do KJ sorry, Had the Salamander a while now, so won't honour any returns.

If it all goes belly up though - I'll get back to you.

Are they not good 'uns tthemselves though?

Not knowing & being my forst ever pump purchase, i thought they were right up there in the pump food chain.

 

[Best]

A 22mm x 1" male bend will narrow from the threaded end, a 22mm x 3/4" will not. Hope that makes sense. You most likely have the 1" threads. A plumber would know at a glance.
Salamander pumps are a middle quality pump that if fitted well give good service usually, but Stuart & Turner are pure quality ( you just need to fit one & you won't use anything else) & as far as I know, make high quality versions for other companies.

 

[kay-jay]

i agree with bests last post!

if you have the appropriate reducer at hand then you will have no problems completing the job.
btw a full drain down is not necessary for the flange. isolate or bung the cwsc (header tank for cylinder) open hot tap til nothing comes out, wrap a couple of towels around cylinder and open union slowly shouldn't get more than a few drips down the side.

 

[realstokebloke]

A 22mm x 1" male bend will narrow from the threaded end, a 22mm x 3/4" will not. Hope that makes sense. You most likely have the 1" threads. A plumber would know at a glance.

"...know at a glance..."

I just shot the fitting at the top of the cylinder but can't find the download lead to post it on here ! ("durr") for now anyway - a household enquiry will reveal same later hopefully - then some kind soul can twll me (at a glance) the fitting i have & the one i'll need i hope.

In other words Best - (& sorry to be dense) it "sort of" made sense but not totally.

 

[realstokebloke]

i agree with bests last post!

if you have the appropriate reducer at hand then you will have no problems completing the job.
btw a full drain down is not necessary for the flange. isolate or bung the cwsc (header tank for cylinder) open hot tap til nothing comes out, wrap a couple of towels around cylinder and open union slowly shouldn't get more than a few drips down the side.

When i do it, i have to move the header tank anyway to fit ano 25gallon tank (50G for the shower cold feed), so i was going to drain it & give it a good clean anyway.

So are you saying running the hot taps will drain off enough water (plus a few towels) so i don;t need to use the drain cock at the base of the cylinder & empty it.

Cheers.

 

[stevetheplumber]

it rare for me to losemoney on any job but the two that spring to mind both involved salamander pumps and minor deviations from the mi's