Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!

[SafeGasInstall]

Typical Plumbers post well done , unfortunatly all the builders that do bathrooms will never read this , or they will never listen to any plumbers advice

I pity the poor fitter, who, in years to come, goes to remove one of your baths!

As for the "L" brackets, the problem with them is potentially splitting the wooden batten if you screw through without first pre-drilling. Also so many fitters (for ease of installation) put the bracket facing upwards (and then tiled over). Makes it a right pain if bath is to be removed without disturbing the tiles above!!

Why not put one bracket at each end (of the long side near each end) then one each on the near side, four brackets = bath reletively secure without the need for any adhesive, dont forget to use the lock bolts on the legs (they help stabilise as well and (before you tile) a sufficient but small amount of clear silicine between the bath edge and wall.

This silicone will be thin enough to secure but not enough so as to make it impossible to remove the bath without destroying the wall behind.

The finishing silicone then becomes a waterproofing and decorative layer and although it will also provide some mechanical grip that is not is what is intended, thus this top layer does not become stressed and fail causing a leak path.


www.iiplumbing-services-derby.co.uk

 

[Dannypipe]

I can’t take full credit for this as I got the idea from another forum member who mentioned he had made one of these.

He didn’t detail how.

This ‘fence’ sprayer comes from Screwfix. It’s on special at the moment for £18.

If you remove the spray wand, a piece of 10mm copper tube fits in perfectly, and seals with the supplied O ring. Then screw on the back nut that comes with the sprayer, which also has a compression piece to hold the assembly tight. On the end of the 10mm pipe, I've got a 10/15mm compression adapter that I got supplied with a load of rad valves I bought. I've then got a 15mm compression coupling. Which is perfect for attaching a filling loop hose.

You then have your own dosing tool for sealed systems. You can use cheaper bottled chemicals and still put them in under pressure.

I initially tried using a reducing ‘bush’ on the male end of the fitting, but a 10mm bit of tube is miles better.

You also get the handle which you squeeze to activate the pump.
Anyway, get down Screwfix and buy one of these. They’re normally £25.

 

[Barry98]

It was mike and this one is mine

 

[Dannypipe]

Did Mike ever show us his 'original' version?

Like I said, the pump shown in mine is on special at the mo for £18.

 

[PlumbBobBob]

just found this one on ebay

 

[Dannypipe]

just found this one on ebay

That's a great deal Steve!

 

[mickg1]

i just use a 15 to 22 mm connex coupler with a 22 mm full bore flexi tap connector screwed on to it and from that a small stub of 22mm with a 22 to 28mm reducer on it, a few loose bits i had knocking around the van one day

 

[R1CKY]

I posted this tip before, but I'll do it again with a pic. Struggling to get PTFE on lagged cylinder unions? Wrap PTFE around a pencil, then use the pencil to apply the PTFE to the threads..............

 

[TBServices]

I posted this tip before, but I'll do it again with a pic. Struggling to get PTFE on lagged cylinder unions? Wrap PTFE around a pencil, then use the pencil to apply the PTFE to the threads..............

This is a great tip! Although I'm not sure why you'd need ptfe on cylinder unions.

 

[SafeGasInstall]

What can I say Tom ........you said it all