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Worcester greenstar
If fan fails to pulse after power up. It usually points to fan failure

From memory you need to check for 240v on purple wire. But if no pulse it's usually dead
 
Fan running constant on a FAN modulation boiler - ideals isar, etc, Worcester greenstar, etc... Usually points to fan failure

It's a failure of the tacho PCB on the fan and it can't regulate the fan speed
 
Poor flame on pilot

If the flame is not a pronounced crisp blue flame on the pilot then then injector is usually on the way out.


You shouldn't try and. Clear this with a pin Etc. you should always replace
 
Ideal isar (combi version) evo he etc

The display keeps on saying D then c

You have a very small passing of water on the DHW or a faulty thermister
 
FOR COMMERCIAL

If visiting a Hamworthy boiler with a HSI
You must check the resistance in ohms.

It must be between 80-120 ohms. Of it is outside of this range it is prob on its way out. But also it may cause PCB damage
 
ideal classic

If you find the boiler lighting and then going out within a few seconds.

The fault is not always linked to the flame dectection. It is mostly linked to the APS.

Give the fan a good clean and the heat exchanger and this should cure the problem
 
Potterton prima, pilot lights then clicks constantly without going to main flame. Pcb, aps and slow fan can cause this. Also seen the tubes to the aps becoming hard and blocking the air flow to the aps. Usually when you drop the pcb housing it kicks in. Also check for the housing pressing on the overheat stat and causing a false reading.
 
Baxi Duo Tec HE or HEA/Potterton Promax Combi HE or HEA/Main Combi HE or HEA.

The serial numbers on these boilers all begin with 3 letters, followed by some numbers. The first 2 numbers are the build year, the second 2 the build week. The rest are random. So for example, a 28 HE A Duo Tec built in the 23 week of 2010 will be CAC1023XXXXXXX.

E119 - Low water pressure - Look for water leak coming from the water pressure switch of the diverter valve spindle. Also check and re-charge the vessel if required.

E133 - Failure to ignite - On older models built pre 2010, the ignition electrodes warp with the heat. They are now re-designed and much better. As a temporary fix, bend them back to make the gap the thickness of a pound coin.

E131 - (not listed) - Can be caused by a few things, sometimes if 2 fault codes come up together, such as E133 (failure to light) then E119 (low system pressure). It can also be caused by power failure during fault code.

E168 - Communication Error (not listed) - Most likely the PCB. Check the voltage and polarity before ordering a replacement.

E160 - Fan fault - Most of the time the fan is faulty. Check the loom to it. If you unplug the rectangular connector block, the fan should run at fall speed. If it doesn't and there's power going to the fan, it is definitely goosed.

E20 - CH NTC sensor fault - Most likely needs replacing. Check resistance on the pins, it should be about 10k when cold.

E50 - DHW NTC sensor fault - Most likely needs replacing. Could have been caused by a leak from it's gasket. It can then corrode the sensor and the loom. This fault should still provide CH, just not DHW.

E110, E125 and E193 - Circulation fault - Pump could be seized or faulty. Also worth checking is the filter located in the return isolation valve behind the blanking cap or (if fitted) the integral filling loop.

Another fault that I have come across a couple of times is with boilers fitted with a verticle flue. The boiler doesn't provide enough hot water. When it fires up, the boiler becomes noisy and eventually goes out. Check the air intake side on the flue test point. If the CO rises the plastic flue exhaust could well be cracked. You'll have to pull the flue apart to check it.

The gas valve on these boilers also need adjusting, the CO2% should be 8.7 on high and 8.4 on low. Adjustment is made on the front of the gas valve, the throttle for high is behind the blue cap, the offset on low is behind the brass flat headed cap. You'll need some Allen keys to do the adjustment. The throttle is a small allen key, the offset slightly bigger.

To ACCESS SERVICE MODE - Turn the potentiometers to min, then turn the DHW potentiometer to the 3 o'clock position and back to the 12 o'clock position twice. The display should change briefly to SF, the LEDs flash and the boiler should light up. Turn the CH potentiometer to MAX (will display 00) for max fan speed and turn back down to MIN for minimum (will display 0). The temp should then cycle with the letter P. To get out of service mode, turn the DHW potentiometer to any position from 12 o'clock (min).
 
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Baxi Duo Tec/Potterton Promax Combi HE/Main Combi HE.

The serial numbers on these boilers all begin with 3 letters, followed by some numbers. The first 2 numbers are the build year, the second 2 the build week. The rest are random. So for example, a 28 HE A Duo Tec built in the 23 week of 2010 will be CAC1023XXXXXXX.

E119 - Low water pressure - Look for water leak coming from the water pressure switch of the diverter valve spindle. Also check and re-charge the vessel if required.

E133 - Failure to ignite - On older models built pre 2010, the ignition electrodes warp with the heat. They are now re-designed and much better. As a temporary fix, bent them back to make the gap the thickness of a pound coin.

E131 - (not listed) - Can be caused by a few things, sometimes if 2 fault codes come up together, such as E133 (failure to light) then E119 (low system pressure). It can also be caused by power failure during fault code.

E168 - Communication Error (not listed) - Most likely the PCB. Check the voltage and polarity before ordering a replacement.

E160 - Fan fault - Most of the time the fan is faulty. Check the loom to it. If you unplug the rectangular connector block, the fan should run at fall speed. If it doesn't, the fan is definitely goosed.

E20 - CH NTC sensor fault - Most likely needs replacing.

E50 - DHW NTC sensor fault - Most likely needs replacing. Could have been caused by a leak from the it's gasket. It can then corrode the sensor and the loom. This fault should still provide CH, just not DHW.

E110, E125 and E193 - Circulation fault - Pump could be seized or faulty. Also worth checking is the filter located in the return isolation valve behind the blanking cap or (if fitted) the integral filling loop.

Another fault that I have come across a couple of times is with boilers fitted with a verticle flue. The boiler doesn't provide enough hot water. When it fires up, the boiler becomes noisy and eventually goes out. Check the air intake side on the flue test point. If the CO rises the plastic flue exhaust could well be cracked. You'll have to pull the flue apart to check it.

The gas valve on these boilers also need adjusting, the CO2% should be 8.7 on high and 8.4 on low. Adjustment is made on the gas valve, the throttle for high is behind the blue cap, the offset on low is behind the brass flat headed cap.

To ACCESS SERVICE MODE - Turn the potentiometers to min, then turn the DHW potentiometer to the 3 o'clock position and back to the 12 o'clock position twice. The display should change briefly to SF, the LEDs flash and the boiler should light up. Turn the CH potentiometer to MAX (will display 00) for max fan speed and turn back down to MIN for minimum (will display 0). The temp should then cycle with the letter P. To get out of service mode, turn the DHW potentiometer to any position from 12 o'clock (min).

Excellent post
 
Ideal isar/icos HE. If the boiler lights ok from cold but goes to LF during ignition when boiler is warm check the spark generator. Check for correct DC voltage into the generator and if there is a spark at the electrode. These generators can develop a fault where they only fail when warmed by the ambient heat inside the boiler.
 
When I spoke with Baxi tech regarding the broken baffels they said it is classed as ID (not that they seem to know much themselves about these boilers) as they are there to slow the gasses down and it would effect the flame. I have replaced the baffels before by pulling them through the bottom but the time it takes to do that and the cost of them makes it seem like a bad choice in my opinion. Plus the fact that if you leave a powermax turned off for more than a day several components seem to fail at once for some reason.

Have changed lots of powermax baffles there are whole estates of them round here and very few have been reg serviced so almost always have the baffles corroded and dropped inside the heat exchange tubes. I use a flexible nylon cable pulling rod to get them out. With the sump off push the cable rod past the baffle in the tube reach under the tank in to the sump hook the cable rod hook over the bottom edge of the baffle and pull out the cable rod from above. Hey presto your baffle is out and you can give the tube a good brushing.
 
common problem always asked in the private forum vokera boiler only firing when cover taken off. always a partially blocked venturi or has been in my case.
 
If you're topping up the pressure on a glowworm 30cxi best to do it slowly as they have a tendency to spit out the return filter beside the pump :(
 
Vaillant Eco tec plus 2 (new ecotec)
F70
Check coding resister (on harness right hand side of main heat x)
Check gas type plug on pcb
Check all cable plugs for poor connections.
Check plugs with any faults. female connections spread open causing poor contacts.
 
Glow worm cxi no display or lights board check.




If there is no display, there are some other things ratherthan the boards which can take the display out.

Any of the low voltage components can also do that, so wealways say to disconnect the 3 connections on the left hand side, J1 J4 and J2and see if the display comes back, if it doesn't then you need to ease J13 offthe top centre so you can see the metal tracks underneath, and see what voltageyou are getting on the first track on the right hand side. It should be reading15-16 volts DC, this is the feed to the display board by the main board so ifyou are not getting that then it is the main board, if you are then it is thedisplay board.
Most of the time we do recommend in changing them bothtogether as some of the new software doesn't always like the old software, soeven if if you do or don't get the voltages it still might need both boardsreplacing.


 
Vaillant 824e Turbomax Plus comes up with fault code F28. Did all my resistance and voltage check and still nothing happening. It goes all the way to ignition but does not fire. Hence decided will go next day with a new gas valve, turned up next day without one just wanted to check what could be wrong, when I took it out it had water in it. Don't know how it got in there. But after drying it out everything working perfectly fine. Saved few bobs for the customer and earned few more for myself.
 
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I went to a ferrolli optimax he locked out on f37 low pressure there was presure in it and no blockage to the low pressure switch changed the low pressure switch still the same spoke to ferrolli it's no low pressure it's caused by a power surge to the board to get it to reset " press reset for 10 sec wait for ts,press reset and let go immediately it will show p1, press bottom + once p2 will display, press top - to go back to p1, 00 will appear( it needs to be 01) use top + &- to change then press the bottom + once to back to p2, then press top + and 01 should be displayed then press and hold reset for 10 sec and it should be reset! Hopefully will save someone 40 quid for a Low pressure switch
 
en-fault-finding-guide-tmg-mmi-sz20r1205-page-001.jpgAlways handy to have..
 
before you start any fault finding check the three esentials
pressure
is there water in the boiler dont trust the guage whack half a bar in ive had many gauges reading 1bar when theres realy nothing in it
power
is there power to the boiler
gas
is there definatley gas at the boiler once spent 20 mins to find a fault and the the gas valve under the boiler was in the off position always best to crack a union or put a guage on
 
before you start any fault finding check the three esentials
pressure
is there water in the boiler dont trust the guage whack half a bar in ive had many gauges reading 1bar when theres realy nothing in it
power
is there power to the boiler
gas
is there definatley gas at the boiler once spent 20 mins to find a fault and the the gas valve under the boiler was in the off position always best to crack a union or put a guage on

Had same on a duo tec , ages checking then thought would check outlet at meter ... 3mb
 
If you get a leak from the tube where flow turbine is on Greenstar, usually the adaptor behind the turbine has disintegrated.

If you can't get the temp to ramp to max on a Flexicom, then before getting multimeter out etc, take out and clean condense thoroughly. Trap, flush through HEX and check pipe is clear. Had this twice passed on from other company's unable to fix with thermistors. :thinking:

Intermittent ignition on a Solo/Promax. If it's on the new style all in one PCB then when it's lit, tap the PCB housing near yellow sticker. Can get it to drop out if PCB is at fault.

Glowworm CI, if you are getting PCB error as fault code (F13??) then check APS is not stuck on before fan has run, as it throws up PCB error.
 
If you goto a intergas combi compact constantly going to 11 fault code, before checking sensors and harness.....remove and clean flow switch as debris can get on the paddle and make it stick in hot water mode.
 
if you have just removed on a service the burner and fan from a duotec HEA/gold/titanium/heatmax/promax combi and you get e133 error make sure you have fitted the silicone tube back to the manifold venturi and not the spare port
 
If you goto an ecotec pro/plus that is starting up when switched on and display fades and the boiler conks out....check to see if pressure switch is the pink one and replace this first as it could be drawing all the power away from the rest of the boiler....had one yesterday.
 
For gledhill pulsacoil 3 also check that the little float switch in header tank hasn't been broken off/that it makes a connection to send power to the board, no power will go to immersions if it is not making a connection.
 
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Biasi M96(24/28)SM/C2
Round black APS
boiler fires up for a few seconds then goes off, continues to spark. After a few attempts the lock out led comes on. Works when the combustion chamber is off.

check flue was fitted correctly as the white seal bends when pushing the elbow into the flue and doesn't sit right.
Fault only starts after the warrenty period is over :(
Remove the complete flue clean and pour water in the top of the boiler to clean out the heat exchanger. Done 3 of these in the past year.
 

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