Fixing bath to wall

[Chris R]

Has anyone come across a fixing for baths ? At the moment I rely on improvising with metal strips etc to fasten the bath to the wall. I have often wondered if anyone makes a specific fitting - any ideas

Ta

 

[ajs heating]

not seen anything, i just make my own.

 

[NickH]

I clamp the rim back to the wall with a couple of lengths of 2x1, about 18" long, under the rim and down the wall then plug and screw to the wall, pulls it in a treat. try and get one at each corner, can be a tricky reach but worth doing, usually get a load of gripfill in there as well.

 

[ajs heating]

what do you want gripfill for ? so it can never be taken out or breaks the bath or pulls half the plaster off

 

[uug197h]

joist angle brackets from wickes

 

[NickH]

what do you want gripfill for ? so it can never be taken out or breaks the bath or pulls half the plaster off

No, so that the cheap plastic baths that people insist on getting from the DIY sheds have a chance of staying put. I'd rather do that than use an angle bracket up behind the tiles which dont actually seem to do much. However you clamp a bath they always have a bit of give right in the corners, gripfill will stop that and its no big deal to replace a bit of plaster when you replace a bath, i'd rather that than a bath thats forever moving.

 

[Chris R]

Thanks all - it looks like I will carry on as I have been - might give gripfill a try - any particular brand ?

 

[NickH]

Pinkgrip. Proffesionals only !!

 

[ajs heating]

I'd rather do that than use an angle bracket up behind the tiles

that cause you fit it under the bath not upwards behind the tiles. LOL

 

[NickH]

that cause you fit it under the bath not upwards behind the tiles. LOL

Sorry you've lost me mate.

 

[nick penfold]

We just screw batten on to the wall, place the bath on the perfectly level batten, lower the legs, screw the legs to the floor and finally use silicone. The bath wont move, the bath will be level, the bath wont sink in to the floor and when the time comes, its easy to remove the bath..Im 20 stone in weight and my own bath is still as sturdy as its always been.

 

[MarkB]

We just screw batten on to the wall, place the bath on the perfectly level batten, lower the legs, screw the legs to the floor and finally use silicone. The bath wont move, the bath will be level, the bath wont sink in to the floor and when the time comes, its easy to remove the bath..Im 20 stone in weight and my own bath is still as sturdy as its always been.

I agree with Nick's method. Get a good fixing for the battens and the bath's going nowhere. The silicone not only holds the bath to the wall but provides a first seal before the tiles are fixed and siliconed.

Mark

 

[365drills]

Is it true its best to fill the bath with water prior to silicone?

http://www.*********.com/jpgs/3.jpg

 

[nick penfold]

I think i read that somewhere in a college text book, hang on....

ok, it says that if the bath is fixed flush to plaster board, then the bath should be filled by a third so the weight lets the bath settle and then you can seal it with silicone. (from plumbing nvq2 and tc by jtl).

To be honest, we don't do that i guess because the batten is holding the bath firmly in place to start with.

 

[jjj]

In addition to the support legs, I clamped the bath to the wall in 2 places like the attached picture (steel rawl bolt through the piece of timber to the wall).

I have no idea if this the bath maker would recommend this, but it has successfully operated with an over bath shower and users between 65 & 110kg over 2 years.

 

[jules1234]

i swear by the 2x1 over the back lip, even kept the mother inlaws bath in place.

 

[TerryH]

I agree with Nick. I've always filled the bath before fixing sealing and it's better if you are tiling too, forming a good tight seal under the tile.

 

[stevetheplumber]

I clamp the rim back to the wall with a couple of lengths of 2x1, about 18" long, under the rim and down the wall then plug and screw to the wall, pulls it in a treat. try and get one at each corner, can be a tricky reach but worth doing, usually get a load of gripfill in there as well.

ill go so far as to say this is the best way the length of the tinber means you get some choice in where the fixing screw goes with angle brackets up wards or down your limited to a couple of inches never found any need for gripfill
but i always silicone the rim to wall prior to tightening the screws

 

[andekoch]

We just screw batten on to the wall, place the bath on the perfectly level batten, lower the legs, screw the legs to the floor and finally use silicone. The bath wont move, the bath will be level, the bath wont sink in to the floor and when the time comes, its easy to remove the bath..Im 20 stone in weight and my own bath is still as sturdy as its always been.

I agree with Nick. I batten the wall, mount the bath on the batten and screw the feet to the floor. No need to part fill the bath. Also silicone between the bath and the wall partly as a seal and partly to fix the bath to the wall.

 

[raviipswich]

I am fitting a Kaldewei steel bath. Using two batons to wall and fitting one baton -3x2 with m6 coach screws and Fischer plugs. Other baton is to fit in stud wall so using only size 6 x100 mm stanless steel wood screws. Also using Kaldewei wall anchors to secure tub to wall.
Now when I place the bath in batons do I fix the bath Rim to baton using C t1 or Sticks like sh*t ?

or should I just silicone on top of bath tub to wall.

I guess if I use C t1 for fixing bath tub rim onto baton it would be impossible to remove without breaking stuff and too much damage to wall . So just place the tub in batons and legs supports, anchor and silicone should do ?

 

[PlumbBobBob]

put bath partly on battens and silicone to wall. push bath onto silicone and leave to set. tile then silicone again.

 

[raviipswich]

put bath partly on battens and silicone to wall. push bath onto silicone and leave to set. tile then silicone again.

Thanks a lot Steve,

so the bath rim siliconed to wall (CT1? Or Dow Corning?)
and the underside of rim that rests on baton - no silicon or glue right?

As said I am also using wall anchors and leg supports supplied by kaldewei.

And should I use the super adhesive from Evolving stick - Sticks like sh*t brand anywhere to fix the tub?

I have floor board, Ditra mat fixed with Bal single part fast flex floor adhesive and 400x600 porcelain tiles on the floor.
The kaldewei leg supports sit on the tiles . Is that OK? They have no screws to fix to floor.

Thanks in advance,

regards,

Ravi

 

[Kyle87]

put bath partly on battens and silicone to wall. push bath onto silicone and leave to set. tile then silicone again.

That's exactly how I do it and wouldn't feel confident using any other method

 

[Chalked]

That's exactly how I do it and wouldn't feel confident using any other method

Me to.

don't care what it's like to remove.

 

[PlumbBobBob]

The kaldewei leg supports sit on the tiles . Is that OK? They have no screws to fix to floor.

Thanks in advance,

regards,

Ravi

i would stand the legs on lengths of wood to spread the weight of the bath/water/person.

 

[PowerFlusher2]

Does anybody know why this country does not use baths with an uplip on the top three edges. Anybody who watches US DIY programmes like 'Holmes on Homes' will always see, when they fit a new bath, that the upright lip is used to screw the bath to the wall and then they run the tiles down over the lip. Always struck me as a good idea because not only are you able to firmly fix the bath to the wall but any water running down is directed back into the bath and not down the wall behind the bath?

There MUST be a reason we don't use these this side of the pond?

 

[Kyle87]

Does anybody know why this country does not use baths with an uplip on the top three edges. Anybody who watches US DIY programmes like 'Holmes on Homes' will always see, when they fit a new bath, that the upright lip is used to screw the bath to the wall and then they run the tiles down over the lip. Always struck me as a good idea because not only are you able to firmly fix the bath to the wall but any water running down is directed back into the bath and not down the wall behind the bath?

There MUST be a reason we don't use these this side of the pond?

The bottom part of the tile is better if its stuck to the wall as it won't adhere to the bath.

 

[PowerFlusher2]

The bottom part of the tile is better if its stuck to the wall as it won't adhere to the bath.

I acknowledge there will always be people who would not use that kind of bath for one reason or another - some people swear by plastic pipes, some people wouldn't use them even if there was nothing else available - but 'the bottom edge of the tile not sticking to the uplip' can't be the ONLY reason this type of bath is not available in the UK, surely?

PS - I use the word 'uplip' in the absence of another suitable term in my HUGE personal vocabulary!

 

[TBServices]

The bottom part of the tile is better if its stuck to the wall as it won't adhere to the bath.

On most tiles that won't matter as the area of the time is so large in comparison, it will still stick fine. Showers have upstands.

I normally stick tanking tape over the lip and paint it anyway, gives adhesion at the bottom.

 

[Kyle87]

Possibly due to the fact that a standard 1700x 700 is no longer standard as you'd need a right or a left lip

All of a sudden a rectangular bath can't just be fitted anywhere

 

[PowerFlusher2]

On most tiles that won't matter as the area of the time is so large in comparison, it will still stick fine. Showers have upstands.

I normally stick tanking tape over the lip and paint it anyway, gives adhesion at the bottom.

UPSTAND - like wot kitchen worktops have - right on TBServices. thanks.

 

[TBServices]

That makes sense, there would be endless configurations of baths and they would become ridiculously expensive as a result.

Fitted correctly a bath shouldn't really need upstands

 

[helpsy]

put bath partly on battens and silicone to wall. push bath onto silicone and leave to set. tile then silicone again.

That's the best way

 

[Ray Stafford]

That makes sense, there would be endless configurations of baths and they would become ridiculously expensive as a result.

Fitted correctly a bath shouldn't really need upstands

Which is effectively what happened with Mira Flight trays. The combination of upstands and sizes made it impossible to stock, but all too easy to damage...

 

[CXR100]

my old boss use to make me chase about half an inch into the wall (if solid) where the bath would go , put a tube of silacone around the 2 edges to be fitted to the wall, push it in to place , smooth off silacone, then following day plaster all aroud the chase bath with cement before sealing it again after the cement was dry! cant see why i needed to do the chase! bathrooms took so long to fit then!!( we used the supplied L bracket and screwed 3 of the legs in place aswell)

 

[WHPES]

Is the bath just pushed up against the tiles (as appears in the picture) rather than tiled off? If so that's bad practice and susceptible to movement.

 

[woodytheplumber]

I batten then and use a tube or 2 to seal them to the wall before tilling but I put a dust sheet in the bath and place a few bags of tile addy inside it to hold it down a touch in my mind it doesn't really do anything but its how I have always done them then after the silicone has fully cured I use a self adhesive tanking tape onto the bath edge about 40mm the I tile or get our tiler to tile the bathroom then wit sharp knife cut the tape back level with the tile then silicone up with plumbers gold

 

[TheFamousForry]

I have fitted several baths and always found the wall brackets were provided. A little awkward to drill into place but worth it for a secure bath that does not move.

 

[DaveyH]

I'm fitting our new bath at the moment. I intend to batten the wall on 2 sides.

What is the best kind of wood to use for wall battens?

I read on another forum that roofing battens are ideal because they are treated. However, every piece of roofing batten that I've looked at in wickes and B&Q is bent like a banana. So any other suggestions.

Thanks in advance

 

[erpkid]

I am currently fitting a new bath at the moment. I intend to batten the wall on 2 sides.

What is the best kind of wood to use for wall battens?

I read on another forum that roofing battens are ideal because they are treated. However every piece of roofing batten that I've looked at in wickes and B&Q is bent like a banana. So any other suggestions.

Thanks in advance

Don't buy your batten from B&Q. Much better to use PAR timber from a good supplier. The treatment bit is moot. If fitted badly you will get water ingress so need treatment to protect......treated timber is full of horrible chemicals so should really be avoided in bathrooms etc.

 

[helpsy]

Balsa:smilewinkgrin: