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oldnorm

What is the correct way to make a compression joint? There are various views on whether sealing compound should be used or not. I want to replace a defective compression joint water valve which has 3 ports. From past experience, when I dismantle it the original tight fitting olives will remain in place. Should these be removed and new ones fitted. The valve is fitted in a very confined space which makes using a saw to remove olives difficult.
Help would be appreciated.

Thank you.
 
Use one of these to remove the olive

demu5y4a.jpg


Where was leak from previously? Via the thread on the joint or around the pipe?

Do you mean the connection is a Tee piece?
 
hi oldnorm welcome to the forums. yes you can use sealing compound if you wish, or a couple of wraps of ptfe tape around the olives. how old is the fitting you are replacing? the reason i ask is that the thread may be different also the dimensions of the valve may be slightly different to the new one. can you post a picture of the offending article?
 
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ptfe on the olive jointing compound not used on portable water or use lock tight on the tread
 
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i've got that olive cutter. you can get jointing compounds that you can use on potable water.
 
There's a lot of nasty fittings going around made in a far away land where they eat fried duck heads and scorpions for snacks.
These fittings need a good smear of Water Hawk otherwise they will fail you.
 
But who is selling them phil so we can all buy some along with a tub of water hawk
 
I found a sealed bag of x2 comp 15mm elbows from 'Doitall' ...anyone remember them? in my dads shed, they were genuine Conex fittings and were 59p.

Those days are gone.........
 
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I know a plumber who has his garden and massive summer house/shed full of plumbing stuff from well you name it he probs got it i almost come in my boxers all the tools and fitting parts etc
 
This is the way I look at this - it is a problem.

1. There are two sorts of compression nut/fitting body etc
which can be either chrome or brass BOTH almost do the job of each other but will leak
without and including overtightening if they are not compatible. You can usuaually tell
when starting the tread off by hand.

2. Jointing materail 1. Some do it dry 2. some use ptfe 3. some use splodge compound
they all work some even splodge silicone in ! - I often think it does not matter

Boss White ( after a few days with the top off is ace) boss green is so coarse
and expensive i hate it - yellow splodge for gas. Old men use plaster and hemp !

centralheatking
 
Thank you for your comments. It was obvious that some of you did not read my thread carefully. No way can I remove olives using the large tools shown as I have a confined space under floorboards. The 3 way water valve does not leak but has problem going the full turn without sticking and stripping the actuator gears that drive it. I suspect the ceramic inside the valve has been coated with dirt particles in the water over the yearr.Although very old, I do have a direct replacement , a Switchmaster 3 port valve put by to install - all brass. I will take note of your comments when replacing it. I may be forced to leave the old olives in situ if I can't file them off with a miniature hacksaw and hope PTFE tape will do it's job. Thanks again.
PS I'm still not sure how to use the web site to generate posts so I hope I have done the right thing in the way I have responded.
 
Oldnorm. Olive breakers are tiny. If there's room for your grips then there's plenty of room for that tool.
 
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