Discuss Is it really cheaper for me to have central heating on all day than a gas fire? in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net
I am dissapointed in the Joke you make of medicine. I am on numerous medications for my conditions and you're going to get a result tonight. And tomorrow night aswell. Yes I admit it took a while to get it through to me about the Boiler but you have no idea of the fighting it takes to get things done and that is why I wanted to be more than sure that it wasn't a new boiler I needed as once the fighting starts I can't change my mind and say oh I want a new boiler if it was just radiators I was going to fight for, for example. and I can only apologise for that. But again I can't thank everyone enough for putting up with me for that and I just bloody remembered Christmas is nearly here so I can't do the test with the meter. Then again I might not have to. I might not have to fight for anything and to me that is well worth all this toing and froing as stress makes 2 of my major conditions a hell of a lot worse so please hang in there with me until tonight. And for the gas fire test tomorrow. And that's it done and dusted I now know I don't need a new boiler which I wasn't completely sure and radiators migh help a bit. To which I did not know any of so it's not been unfruitful to me quite the oposite and again I am sorry and thank you all for hhanging in there with me. And I mean that from the bottom of my heart!With a hundred posts and no resolution we all need medication.
In the hall mate not sweating roasting but very warm as Living Room radiator I was told to keep it at full. the rest at 2.
I am going to keep it at full mate for the remainder of this test. Thanks again buddy.If your room stat is in the hall, then I would think it advisable to turn the radiator in the living rooms thermostatic valve (if you have one) to a sensible setting of about number 4.
Your room stat in the hall won't control the living room temperature accurately
In the hall mate not sweating roasting but very warm as Living Room radiator I was told to keep it at full. the rest at 2.
Warm is just fine, knock the rad thermostat to 4 or 3 or whatever temp is comfortable without being too hot. What temp do have the hall thermostat and what is the point of "testing" your system at an unrealistically high temp?
I am going to keep it at full mate for the remainder of this test. Thanks again buddy.
Yes But I am better keeping it at that just now. the plumber told me 28. Once I have done the test I will put it down to 4 mate.No point really. No thermostatic radiator valve should be much above number 4. That's going to give a room temperature of approx 24 degrees. If you turn it to number 5 setting the temperature will be about 29 degrees if you want a sauna.
No I only know the basics of the thermostat. So yes maybe but I won't get it as they won't give me an extra one for my Bedroom to use when I can't walk. I have been told to use my electric blanket. So no way will I get it.Sounds like he has a programmable room stat, says he cant understand why it turns off, if he cant understand how it works he may be better to get it replaced with a basic RF unit on a stand so he can move it around with him.
Now that would be a result it's a danfoss wireless heating control and is only set to come on above 20 but I must have done something as when I turn it on now it comes on at 20 sometimes. Going to have a look on youtube to see if I can get it on my own. Failing that I will be calling for a heating engineer. And the last one I had didn't have a clue eitherSetting 18 degree's for a hall thermostat is plenty, set your rad stat to 3 or 4. You'll probably find that's where your extra ÂŁ20 a month has been going.
Heating controls - five money-saving tips - Creating an energy saving home - Which? Energy
Yes I do mate and I am off to hunt.You obviously have internet else I wouldn't suggest this: you may find you can download instructions for your thermostat online if you put in the make and model number and do a bit of hunting.
Yes I do mate and I am off to hunt. It's danfoss tp50001 I think that's the last model mentioned TP5001+RFYou obviously have internet else I wouldn't suggest this: you may find you can download instructions for your thermostat online if you put in the make and model number and do a bit of hunting.
Yes I do mate and I am off to hunt. It's danfoss tp50001 I think that's the last model mentioned TP5001+RF
With no room stat the temperature is set by the boiler, if it was on twice a day rather than all day as your current system is that'll go a long way to explaining the discrepancy in gas usage from your old place.
Once you've got to grips with the hall stat set it at 18 to begin with and set your rad stats as you require them not what you think they should be. As you admitted you were boiling with TRV set on max therefore try a lower setting.
Get out more? Move back with the parents?
1706 to 1709
You've used about 3 cubic metres of gas today boiling your butt off, that equates to approx 34kw/h. You can work out from your bill what that is per day.
I think we've worked out why your usage is as high as it is haven't we?
Yes I think everything is OK. Thank God I don't have to fight anymore. You would think that it was coming out there own pocket, the council inspectors that is. I am so tired fighting them. Just got gas Fire to do tomorrow. And then it will be a couple of days in my thermals when they arrive to account for the wastage. But it was worth it as stress makes my conditions worsen and I thank you all from the bottom of my heart for bearing with me. Thanks again.
Why are you bothering to test now when you know what the problem is?
Your hall stat is set too high and so is the rad stat.
Do I have to run my gas fire the whole day. Can I not just calculate by the hour?
It's at 1710366 been on full for 2 hours reading started at 1709244. Going to do as you suggest just now.You don't need to run it all day.
Put your fire on then go look at your meter, take a reading including the decimal points in m3/hr (or cubic feet per hour if you've got a very old meter)
Time it for 2 minutes then record the reading then.
Then do the same for your boiler.
Come back and tell us what your readings are, what units it's recorded in (m3/hr or ft3/hr), what your tariff per unit is and your calorific value. These last couple will be found on your latest bill.
We can tell you what you're paying per hour then.
With Fire on full for 2 minutes start 01710433 after 2 minutes 01710450.
central heating on full 30 degrees 01710550 after 2 minutes 01710644
I'm hoping there's a decimal point in there somewhere.
I don't get bills it's online and I am on standard tariff with Scottish hydro. What's my calorific value?Righto, now dig out your bill, we need your tariff and calorific value.
I am bloody hopeless at online billing changing to paper. But I found this. If it helpsYour cv is a measurement that we use to determine how much heat is generated per unit of gas.
It'll be a number somewhere between 38 and 42. I'll take it as being 41.04 as that's what we're using in Northern Ireland.
Even though you're online you should see your tariff per unit.
Guys...those that are trying to contribute in a constructive manner probably realise hollyoakes has more difficulties than most so let's not be too quick to judge and just see if we can help him through this instead of littering the thread with unhelpful and occasionally snide posts.
If this thread is not a windup then Masood's Tax Refund will be in the bank.
OK mate I know I am. I Just want to know the difference betwwen the fire and the central heating. And that the energy company is not ripping me off. And yes I am persistant. I don't get help off anyone. I can't even get an extra wireless heating control for when I can't walk and I have been told just to use my electric blanket. And believe me I pushed all the way for that. I would buy one myself but I don't think it will work. You will know better, the reciever is only single band I think and I think you need a dual band reciever to have 2 wireless heating controls in fact I am going to ask the gas engineer tomorrow when I see him if that is the case. When I get him to set my heating control to come on at 18 degrees instead of 21. I can only apologise about this but I just want to know these things and that's me sorted. Thank you.The reason this thread appears a windup is that what ever your state of physical health the questions you ask are both intelligent and perceptive, yet when offered advice you respond with a reason to ignore it and pose another question. With persistence like yours resolving problems through social services and landlord should not be difficult.
OK mate I know I am. I Just want to know the difference betwwen the fire and the central heating. And that the energy company is not ripping me off. And yes I am persistant. I don't get help off anyone. I can't even get an extra wireless heating control for when I can't walk and I have been told just to use my electric blanket. And believe me I pushed all the way for that. I would buy one myself but I don't think it will work. You will know better, the reciever is only single band I think and I think you need a dual band reciever to have 2 wireless heating controls in fact I am going to ask the gas engineer tomorrow when I see him if that is the case. When I get him to set my heating control to come on at 18 degrees instead of 21. I can only apologise about this but I just want to know these things and that's me sorted. Thank you.
Reply to Is it really cheaper for me to have central heating on all day than a gas fire? in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net
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