Search the forum,

Discuss When does plumber first fix in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

Status
Not open for further replies.
Messages
910
On a building with modern engineered joist that you knock out. When do you first fix usually after the floor and all stud walls have gone up?
 
preferably before the plasterers arrive and cover things up or the chippies board the floors
 
Yeah then you drop your rad tails in the stud work, turn your domestics up in place for bathrooms. Then sparks do there bit then chippies add noggins for rads, dry liners in, mist coat, then free for all on second fix and finals
 
Thanks got one to start with no floor down upstairs or stud work yet. But work want me to start it explained there wasnt much can do yet.
 
I like to have the floors down, studwork in and boarded on one side.
 
On a building with modern engineered joist that you knock out. When do you first fix usually after the floor and all stud walls have gone up?

yep,after the 1st floor is down and stud work is up. sometimes you'l have one side boarded.
PM me if you want the measurements we use for tail, rad heights etc.
 
The knock out holes on the engineering joist look a fair bit out of alignment has anyone had this before? Also can you knock the pre made holes out anywhere on the run?
 
Knock out only ever line up for sparks and thier flexible cables. Better off to drill the plot out
 
Yep every site I've worked on the site agent has a copy, if not then wait for confirmation but as a start do NOT drill/notch the top or bottom part, sounds obvious but some think it's okay!!
 
Is it copper or plastic being used?

If it's copper you need to be before the floors and stud work go in find out the sizes of rooms then bring pipes up where needed, if it's plastic then after floor and stud work.
 
Why would you do copper before floors on a tji? You can't notch it so won't make an odds other then the bird cage being in your way as there's no floors in the plot
 
I would first fix once the upstair floors are down but no floor downstairs ( if solum ) . B4 any plasterboard and most important b4 the sparks lol
 
Thanks can the pre knocked out holes be knocked out anywhere on the span or is it 0.25 to 0.4 of the span like on normal joists. And for drilling is it 0.25 to 0.4 of the span
 
Thanks can the pre knocked out holes be knocked out anywhere on the span or is it 0.25 to 0.4 of the span like on normal joists. And for drilling is it 0.25 to 0.4 of the span

no the 0.25-0.4 is for standard timber joists, most with the knockouts can be drilled almost anywhere apart from a small distance from wall/support (around 150mm) and a small distance from top and bottom flange (around 30mm) distance betwen holes is normally the same as standard joists (2X betweeen edge of holes)
 
Some of you guys are forgetting where you are in list of priority trades, i wouldn't worry about the sparks and their well groomed hair silly sunglasses and pathetic plastic boxes turning up on site with their boyfriend in tow.

You are PLUMBERS the top trade that all others wish they were cables in the way just get your snips and chop them out or rub all the markings off the cables.

Remember a property without water is nothing more than a shed.

SPARKS pfffft
 
Post 22 is excellent advice. If copper pipe you will install from below, through holes drilled by yourself. Manufacturer's instructions should be read, edge of hole 30mm from flange, if spec.
says 3mm its a misprint. 15mm pipe no problem, 22mm will require a bit of flexing.
The fact you have been called in early suggests site manager is unfamiliar with tji system.
Resist all instructions to notch flanges.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Reply to When does plumber first fix in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

Similar plumbing topics

Hi, Can anyone advise as to why the cold water to my bathroom keeps airlocking? This originally happened about 12 months ago and has happened 3-4 times since. It’s an upstairs bathroom, fed from a tank in the attic. The tank is about 8 Meters away and feeds a bath, sink and toilet. The tank...
Replies
9
Views
323
Hi, basic question, any insight much appreciated. Looking to have an outdoor tap in my front porch fed from 15mm pex coming up from suspended floor. Pic 1 is inside porch, pex temporarily clipped to give an idea of pipe placement (ignore shoddy blockwork of booted cowboy builder!), Pic 2 is...
Replies
6
Views
226
I was stupid enough not to check the position of the pipes under the tiles when installing a toilet and drilled right through the center of a 16 mm copper water pipe. I exposed the pipe by removing a ~30cm section of the plastic sleeve and a ~10 cm section of the pipe around the hole. Several...
Replies
0
Views
187
Hello all, I’m replacing a concrete paving slab patio in the back yard. The original patio used 50mm deep concrete slabs on hardcore & sand. I’m planning to pour a 100mm deep concrete patio on 100mm hardcore. In order to achieve the same final height to line up with the rest of the patio, I...
Replies
6
Views
232
My son has an apprenticeship interview for to become a plumber and heating engineer. The have said there will be a multiple choice exam for this for suitability. The thing is my son panics during tests/exams. Is there any book I can buy him to practice the multiple choice test for the exam? What...
Replies
3
Views
411
Creating content since 2001. Untold Media.

Newest Plumbing Threads

Back
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website. For the best site experience please disable your AdBlocker.

I've Disabled AdBlock