Wash Basin Plug (options)

[Bagshot]

HI,

I'd very much appreciate advice on what I can do with this . . .

The wash basin in the bathroom has a plug which sits on a piece which is opened and closed by pressing down or pulling up a lever behind the tap and that had consistently failed as the adjustment gets misaligned so I would like a different 'plug'. The outer ring is 60mm wide and the inner hole is 38mm wide. I would like to replace the whole thing, both parts, but . . .
Q1 Can I get that outer ring out without taking the sink off the wall - how?
Q2 If I (have to) leave the outer ring in place what is my best option for some thing (plug) in the middle

 

[Ben-gee]

Yes you need to change that but too.
It is held in place underneath by a piece you will need to unscrew- if you can move the pedestal to one side slightly then there should be no need to remove the basin from the wall.

 

[Michael__]

Yes you need to change that but too.
It is held in place underneath by a piece you will need to unscrew- if you can move the pedestal to one side slightly then there should be no need to remove the basin from the wall.

Thanks - I will take a look - if that dails can I just buy a new plu that will do the job

 

[Basher]

The bit you refer to as the 'outer ring' is the visible part of the waste (example below), which contains the rods you say get out of alignment. (I have the same problem having to adjust ours occasionally)

The waste you have would probably have come with the tap, as a complete set.
To remove it, there's a big nut around it underneath the basin. If your basin is on a pedestal that will probably be in the way, but if your basin is screwed to the wall you may be able to work on it in situ.
you should be able to buy a replacement plug for the middle, but knowing the brand of the tap/waste you have would be an advantage, otherwise measure it accurately, and compare with what Google suggests!

 

[Michael__]

The bit you refer to as the 'outer ring' is the visible part of the waste (example below), which contains the rods you say get out of alignment. (I have the same problem having to adjust ours occasionally)

The waste you have would probably have come with the tap, as a complete set.
To remove it, there's a big nut around it underneath the basin. If your basin is on a pedestal that will probably be in the way, but if your basin is screwed to the wall you may be able to work on it in situ.
you should be able to buy a replacement plug for the middle, but knowing the brand of the tap/waste you have would be an advantage, otherwise measure it accurately, and compare with what Google suggests!

Thanks - the original design with the rod has been a nightmare as it moves out of alignment and I would like (if possible) to replace it with a simpler (less prone to failure) system.
The basin is not on a pedastal, under tha basin is a porcelain 'cover' which is held in place by hooks suspended from bolts. This cover is loweed and removed by 'unwinding' the hooks abd lowering it but the plastic unwind bit is stiff and my hands are arthritic (is there a tool to do the unwinding?). I am considering taking the locking nut off the shaft and forcing it off.
(I would like to post pics but cannot see an option for me to do that)

 

[Bagshot]

Thanks . . .
The original rod design has been a nightmare and I would like to replace it with something simple / less prone to fail.
The basin is not on a pedastal, it has a porcelain cover suspended beneath held on kooks suspended from bolts in the wall. There are plastic grips which should trun to lower the cover and pull off but they are V stiff and my hands are arthritic - is there a tool for this? Plan B is to take off the locking nut and drag the retaining hook line off the shaft of the bolt.

 

[Basher]

Thanks . . .
The original rod design has been a nightmare and I would like to replace it with something simple / less prone to fail.
The basin is not on a pedastal, it has a porcelain cover suspended beneath held on kooks suspended from bolts in the wall. There are plastic grips which should trun to lower the cover and pull off but they are V stiff and my hands are arthritic - is there a tool for this? Plan B is to take off the locking nut and drag the retaining hook line off the shaft of the bolt.

I sympathise - that does look tricky If you have arthritis.
I'm not aware of any specific tool for the plastic bits, but I'd probably use slip-joint pliers/ gas pliers If they don't turn easily.

Hardly the most attractive solution, but you could use a traditional basin plug on a chain - or maybe not on a chain! (leaving your existing waste in place). That is probably the solution with the least likely failure rate!

If you can get the porcelain cover off, you could replace the chrome waste with an ordinary (slotted) waste of the same size with a click-clack plug. However my experience is that they give up working properly eventually, but at least most are replaceable/ maintainable from above.

 

[Bagshot]

I managed to get the cover off (nightmare

 

[Bagshot]

see pic of current set up

 

[Basher]

So that waste has an internal thread at the top, and the ring/strainer you see in the basin is threaded and screws into it, a bit like the (Crosswater) pic below.
If you want to remove it, I would try removing the rods and unscrewing the bottom part below the sink while holding the bit in the basin still, eg with a pair of needle nosed pliers stuck in it !!

You'll need to find a replacement waste approx the same height, or change the P-trap for a telescopic one!

 

[Bagshot]

I've got my bits in me basket . . . what is that screw for on the right in the pic

 

[Basher]

I have no idea. Since it mentions 'chain' maybe it's a blanking screw (can't see a slot in it) for the hole where the chain fixing went
PS are you sure the overall length of this one is the same as the overall length of your old one to the thread of the P-trap, ie is the old one 3 1/2" (90mm)

 

[Bagshot]

Thanks again . . . I am sure it is not as long as the current trap so I have as McAlpine A10A in my Screwfix basket

 

[Bagshot]

Thanks again . . . I am sure it is not as long as the current trap so I have as McAlpine A10A in my Screwfix basket

Having bought the McAlpine CW60-CB and about to do the job I am asking myself - why did I choose 'slotted' - why did I not choose unslotted - how do I know which is right for my basin?

 

[Basher]

Having bought the McAlpine CW60-CB and about to do the job I am asking myself - why did I choose 'slotted' - why did I not choose unslotted - how do I know which is right for my basin?

Your basin includes an overflow, according to your pic, and the water from that flows down in the ceramic and comes out in the waste aperture below. If you fit an unslotted waste the overflow water will be blocked, and the basin will overflow!
I believe you have the correct waste!

 

[Mike___]

Your basin includes an overflow, according to your pic, and the water from that flows down in the ceramic and comes out in the waste aperture below. If you fit an unslotted waste the overflow water will be blocked, and the basin will overflow!
I believe you have the correct waste!

Thanks again . . . I put a finger down the the current waste hole and I felt slots in the side so I suspect 'slotted' is the correct choice. . . (golf today subject to rain - start the job tomorrow)

 

[Basher]

(golf today subject to rain - start the job tomorrow)

made me smile reading that, as I'm sitting looking out of our window across a golf course, where some enthusiastic golfers are likely to get wet soon. That doesn't seem to put them off though!

 

[Bagshot]

Job done and so far no leeks. The drop on the outlet out of the basin was just over 5cm which meant I couldn't get the new A10A waste in but was able to get the old one in. Thanks Basher for the helpful guidance