Discuss Run out of ideas, HELP in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

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codcutter

Right

back in the summer i converted a combi boiler to a system boiler, (long story but Combi couldn't supply enough water).
2 Honeywell 2 ports etc etc.
Having a problem with heating valve not fully opening, sometimes have to move it by hand when i get a bang/shock in the pipe work. Valve will then work fine when being tested............... then a couple of days later get a call from the elderly customers complaining of no heating.
Went back today..... fitted new valve, worked fine for about 10mins then back to sticking about halfway through travel.
Have currently disconnected brown & orange wires in w/centre and wired room thermostat to fire boiler

Any one got any bright ideas???

Thanks

oh have Gas Safe and G3 etc
 
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The only thing that moves the valve is the demand for heating! It's a zone valve, what do you mean by "sticking half way"? They're either open or closed surely? :)

You sure its the right way around?
 
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When you say you installed a new valve, was that the whole thing, just the head, or what? Maybe the valve itself is sticking halfway across and the motor isn't strong enough to move it? I had that on a Danfoss 3-port.
 
Have you checked that the valve isn't gummed up? Sounds like hydraulic gradient across the ball in valve too high? Pictures of set up ? Is system balanced and bypass ect? When both valves are closed is the pump running?
 
Could be "swollen ball" syndrome :)

Not in 10mins mind!! :lol: But there are certain chemicals that would cause the rubber 'ball' in valves to swell!! HONEST! :)
 
When you say you installed a new valve, was that the whole thing, just the head, or what? Maybe the valve itself is sticking halfway across and the motor isn't strong enough to move it? I had that on a Danfoss 3-port.

Removed powerhead, can easily move valve stem with fingertips, fitted replacement head...........

Have you checked that the valve isn't gummed up? Sounds like hydraulic gradient across the ball in valve too high? Pictures of set up ? Is system balanced and bypass ect? When both valves are closed is the pump running?

Balanced system after conversion, bypass fitted.......... pump runs on over run when demand satisfied..........

Looks like i'll be going back when its a bit warmer (heating is on 24/7 during winter months at 26deg:shocked: ) i know running on boiler stat isn't ideal set up, but will have to do as stacked out 'til after crimbo
 
'Certain chemicals' = beer? I know it does to me. /thread drift

It were something in the fulx's/oils they coated rads in as far as I could gather? Systems not flushed out and the power of 'osmosis' :)
 
Could be "swollen ball" syndrome :)

Not in 10mins mind!! :lol: But there are certain chemicals that would cause the rubber 'ball' in valves to swell!! HONEST! :)

never heard of that one (27 years in the game), possibly on some of the "other" sites i have heard about:blush5:
 
never heard of that one (27 years in the game), possibly on some of the "other" sites i have heard about:blush5:

You must have never taken apart a 3 way valve and replaced the innards? At one time you use to be able to! However if you ever get the chance check out the space they take up in a new valve in comparison with one that's been in some years! You may be convinced in the 'swollen ball' syndrome :)
 
To be honest i haven't fitted a 3 way valve in years (probably only replaced 2 or 3 when they've been letting by) as i prefer to install s plan. Problem is "solved" for the time being, but will update this when it's fully resolved

Thanks all
 
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