Help with New Vaillant Boiler not staying on

[Deleted member 120897]

I think auto and 24kw settings are far too high for a 5 rad system, probably better with 10 - 12kw.

 

[IrinaPri]

I think auto and 24kw settings are far too high for a 5 rad system, probably better with 10 - 12kw.

Thank you for your reply! Could i please ask is this possible to do on this new boiler? The boiler i had previously was 16 years old but also 24Kw so i did like for like change. Is it possible for me to change the setting from Auto to 10/12kw or do you mean i need to get a different boiler with lower Kw?

 

[John.g]

Change d.00 max setting to 10 (kw) or so.

Also see if d.05 (boiler flow temperature) is settable, it states below that it isnt which seems strange, also note the anti cycling time, d.02.

Amazing that the flow/return temps are 38/36C, boiler firing??.
There is a d setting in some of these boilers where you can control the return temperature, it might be in one of the d codes if selected.

When f23 was flagged what did d.40 & d.41 read?.

 

[Deleted member 120897]

Thank you for your reply! Could i please ask is this possible to do on this new boiler? The boiler i had previously was 16 years old but also 24Kw so i did like for like change. Is it possible for me to change the setting from Auto to 10/12kw or do you mean i need to get a different boiler with lower Kw?

You’re welcome. No, i don’t mean swap the boiler. As above, it’s possible to range the heating side down, and shouldn’t affect the hot water delivery - let’s face it, there’s nothing to lose by trying it. I take it you missed my earlier post regarding the motorised valve?

 

[IrinaPri]

No, i don’t mean swap the boiler. As above, it’s possible to range the heating side down, and shouldn’t affect the hot water delivery - let’s face it, there’s nothing to lose by trying it. I take it you missed my earlier post regarding the motorised valve?

Will defiantly try it! Sorry, regarding motorised valves - both were checked and seem to work ok. Always responded even with previouse old boiler so i asked the gas engeener if i should order new ones as we upgrading the system but he was sure they work well still.

 

[king of pipes]

Post a few pictures of the boiler and cylinder could be he has the flow and return pipework be crossed ? worth checking , agree with the others drop the boiler to 12 kw and see if it makes a difference pump on a constant speed setting 2. Kop

 

[IrinaPri]

Post a few pictures of the boiler and cylinder could be he has the flow and return pipework crossed ? worth checking , agree with the others drop the boiler to 12 kw and see if it makes a difference pump.on constant speed 2. Kop

Thank you for your response! Understood - will take pictures tonight.

 

[IrinaPri]

Update- Same Fault 23 was on the boiler when I got in, I have closed 4 radiators and restarted the boiler, it only keep working if I open the rest of the radiators one by one after they got hot. Temperature on display keeps going up and down and radiator sign keeps flashing. Gas engineer coming back tomorrow to start again, is there anything else I need to tell him? ( I printed all your previous replies for him).
Thank you!
Irina

 

[Deleted member 120897]

I would get him every to check the flow and return temps under the boiler too using temp clamps.

 

[John.g]

Check the (downward) vertical pipe from the ABV (automatic balancing valve) is cold/cool with boiler running, it looks as if its set to max (ie closed) index of 0.5, 5M. It looks suspiciously as if its teed in to where the cold feed traditionally is/should be, alongside the Vent, if not a combined vent and cold feed, like mine. Try and see where the cold feed pipe is teed into the system it will be a 15mm pipe coming from the side (bottom) of the F&E tank, also check the obvious, that this tank contains water.