P
Pipe Bend
Hi , there , I'm looking for some thought on the following :-
70's built bungalow / suspended wooden floor with a 10mm microbore sealed heating system, originally installed off an oil fired rayburn in the kitchen ( in it's day the only source of heating ) but now powered by a condensing oil fired boiler .We also have an extension with solid floor , underfloor heating that has separate control and manifold system.
Just removed the redundant oil fired rayburn to fit a dual powered ( Lpg & Electric ) range in it's place , there is no heating in the kitchen and we are considering options.
2 spring to mind.
1/ Fit a wall rad .
But :- with no wall space available to fit a rad , we would need to loose one 500 base unit at the end of a run near the back door to fit allow space to fit a rad on the existing microbore system . However , kitchen space is already limited and the one rad would be underpowered for the size of the kitchen - so it's not an ideal solution.
Or :-
2/ Fit a Hydronic plinth heater .
Which seems the most sensible option .
But :- from what I read on line a Plinth Heater fitted on microbore seems to be a bit if a no-no ?.
So one thought was that I could possibly cut into the 22mm central heating system just before the 10mm manifold , fit a 15mm take of and run this to the Plinth heater - and or course the same for return.
However - this raises issues I'm trying to fathom .
A/ Would this 15mm take off - fitted infront of the 22/ 10mm manifold simply mean that we would see a poorer heating from the existing radiators as the 15mm pipe offering the water flow less resistance would be a sort cut for the hot central heating water to go through the plinth heater and increase the return to boiler temperature - thus effecting the efficiency of the system and the boiler .
Again - balancing the system.
B/ There would not seem to be any way to balance / restrict the flow to the plinth heater - as with the lock shield / trv set up on a conventional radiator - to effect flow .
Had thought about the possibility of using the isolation valves fitted with plinth heater to do the job / restrict the flow - but not sure if this would work at all .
[FONT=&]So . then thought that one possible solutions could be to break into the existing heating 22mm system before the current two way motorised valve - split it to give the [/FONT]plith heater a separate system in 15mm fitting a motorised valve and kitchen wall stat.
But of course that solution ad's considerable complexity and cost .
So , am I actually making this into something much more than it is ., are there simpler solutions , I'm just not thinking of ?
Any thoughts would be most welcome.
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70's built bungalow / suspended wooden floor with a 10mm microbore sealed heating system, originally installed off an oil fired rayburn in the kitchen ( in it's day the only source of heating ) but now powered by a condensing oil fired boiler .We also have an extension with solid floor , underfloor heating that has separate control and manifold system.
Just removed the redundant oil fired rayburn to fit a dual powered ( Lpg & Electric ) range in it's place , there is no heating in the kitchen and we are considering options.
2 spring to mind.
1/ Fit a wall rad .
But :- with no wall space available to fit a rad , we would need to loose one 500 base unit at the end of a run near the back door to fit allow space to fit a rad on the existing microbore system . However , kitchen space is already limited and the one rad would be underpowered for the size of the kitchen - so it's not an ideal solution.
Or :-
2/ Fit a Hydronic plinth heater .
Which seems the most sensible option .
But :- from what I read on line a Plinth Heater fitted on microbore seems to be a bit if a no-no ?.
So one thought was that I could possibly cut into the 22mm central heating system just before the 10mm manifold , fit a 15mm take of and run this to the Plinth heater - and or course the same for return.
However - this raises issues I'm trying to fathom .
A/ Would this 15mm take off - fitted infront of the 22/ 10mm manifold simply mean that we would see a poorer heating from the existing radiators as the 15mm pipe offering the water flow less resistance would be a sort cut for the hot central heating water to go through the plinth heater and increase the return to boiler temperature - thus effecting the efficiency of the system and the boiler .
Again - balancing the system.
B/ There would not seem to be any way to balance / restrict the flow to the plinth heater - as with the lock shield / trv set up on a conventional radiator - to effect flow .
Had thought about the possibility of using the isolation valves fitted with plinth heater to do the job / restrict the flow - but not sure if this would work at all .
[FONT=&]So . then thought that one possible solutions could be to break into the existing heating 22mm system before the current two way motorised valve - split it to give the [/FONT]plith heater a separate system in 15mm fitting a motorised valve and kitchen wall stat.
But of course that solution ad's considerable complexity and cost .
So , am I actually making this into something much more than it is ., are there simpler solutions , I'm just not thinking of ?
Any thoughts would be most welcome.
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