Discuss heat loss for new builds in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

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sheff paul

Pricing for some new builds,anyone know some easy on line heat loss calcs ,the ones I usually use are more geared towards older homes ,not heavily insulated new builds.
 
Judging by some of the new builds i've been in, a 600 x 600 single by the front door should be more than enough!
 
Just use a normal one or mears..The constructions been around for ever and a day. Find out what insulations been put in ie king span, fibreglass etc etc. the old is the same as the new. just takes a bit of looking at in person or architects spec..I dont think theres a new build specific calc out there at the moment.
 
I got a mears off ebay based on nice insulated new builds, have yet to use it!
 
Ask the builder the u values and do proper calculations. Or if it's just for quote just use online software which will prob be slightly high and if you win the work then do proper calculations.
 
This is a real point of contention with me.

I have used the Mears Calculators for many years for heatloads, with some tried and tested adjustments for heatloads in Melbourne.

I purchased last year a new computer program for heatloads for Australian conditions.

well, after spending all the time in inserting all the required information into the program the heatload was larger than the Mears Calculator.

Mind boggling - due to our temperature is @ 4C in winter and I think the Mears calculator is based on -1C.

I would just use something you feel comfortable and confident with.

What the worst that can happen - you slightly oversize a heating system.
 
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Just use a normal one or mears..The constructions been around for ever and a day. Find out what insulations been put in ie king span, fibreglass etc etc. the old is the same as the new. just takes a bit of looking at in person or architects spec..I dont think theres a new build specific calc out there at the moment.

Just build a spread sheet. Energy losses not that hard to calculate. Every element has an thermal conductivity.
 
This is a real point of contention with me.

I have used the Mears Calculators for many years for heatloads, with some tried and tested adjustments for heatloads in Melbourne.

I purchased last year a new computer program for heatloads for Australian conditions.

well, after spending all the time in inserting all the required information into the program the heatload was larger than the Mears Calculator.

Mind boggling - due to our temperature is @ 4C in winter and I think the Mears calculator is based on -1C.

I would just use something you feel comfortable and confident with.

What the worst that can happen - you slightly oversize a heating system.
Or you loose the work cos someone tenders lower, as their rads are smaller but still heat the building.
 
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With the ones like Stars or Myson / Heatline you can input your own U-values even if the actual construction is not given. These U-value can be obtained from Part L which states the minimum that the Architect / builder can use for each of the elements (walls, floors, roof, windows etc).

I use the Myson one (even though I hardly ever use Myson rads, I just take the require figure to select other makes which are delta T 50deg C.
 
Last edited:
With the ones like Stars or Myson / Heatline you can input your own U-values even if the actual construction is not given. These U-value can be obtained from Part L which states the minimum that the Architect / builder can use for each of the elements (walls, floors, roof, windows etc).

I use the Myson one (even though I hardly ever use Myson rads, I just take the require figure to select other makes which are delta T 50deg C.

can you download the myson one Chris,or do you have to buy it
 
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