Discuss cast iron work in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

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bit of advice pleaze,
just landed an insurance job in an upstairs bathroom 1950's semi.
the toilet also requires moving allong the same wall (exchange position with basin nearer to stack).
the pan connector goes verticle down into and under the floor boards parrallel with the joist's and connects to an internall stack in the corner of the room (same wall) around 1.5m. the waste pipe is potted to the pan and is all cast iron.
what i need to do is cut the soil pipe put in 2 elbows and bring back up into the pan.

queries...

should i cut the iron with my big wheel or something better like a recip?.

will the stack joint be easily disturbed whilst cutting (all boxed in) or solid?.

which are the best type elbows to use as the iron seems clean but quite pitted in the cast (sand pitting),?.

is there any point putting a rodding eye in the first bend from stack since it will be under the floor boards?.

shall the soil pipe need or be better supported to the joist using builders band or simmular?.

not quite the same as external stack, as the kitchen is directly below and i like to be thorough as i wouldnt like turds in my cornflakes either.:D

thanx for the input and opinions guys.
 
Hi. Cutting with a disc cutter is fine, providing you can get right through.
If the cast has been jointed in the traditional way (lead Caulked) over a short distance it will be self supporting.
Time saver is an easy system to use on cast iron.
Although a nice to have, a rodding eye under the floor is likly to flood the cieling void if undone to attend to blockage. Assuming pan is not to be bedded on cement, it could be removed under severe blockage conditions. Support via metal banding would be good on extension to soil pipe. Good Luck
 
word of warning the dust from a cutter will permenatly stain a bathespecially a metal one so sheet up well if using a wheei indoors
you will probaly not have room to get through with a big cutter so cut a window then use a little one to complete the cut
does it have to go back in cast? you could use a four inch rubber and go of in plastic
 
Would agree with both. Is plastic a no no for for fire reasons?
 
use a timesaver coupling adapter to plastic.clamp version.
as to the cutting,a grinder if you have room to use it,brandon tool hire do a ratchet cast cutter for them awkward places.
 
i am intending to extend with plastic,
i think the big grinder has room, to memory.
a time saver is the one with jubille clip clamps to rubber arn't they?
and yes, i forgot the pan could be removed for blockage, doh!.

i got the job apparently, as the customer rang and said the cheque is on itts way from the insurers and having the customary 1/2 hour chat with them to verify works.
it's amazing, you add all the bits and eventualities plus 10% (because they allways knock you down) and full money is on its way?.
must be nearly xmas!. lol.
 
top right hand drain coupling
 

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i am intending to extend with plastic,
i think the big grinder has room, to memory.
a time saver is the one with jubille clip clamps to rubber arn't they?
and yes, i forgot the pan could be removed for blockage, doh!.

i got the job apparently, as the customer rang and said the cheque is on itts way from the insurers and having the customary 1/2 hour chat with them to verify works.
it's amazing, you add all the bits and eventualities plus 10% (because they allways knock you down) and full money is on its way?.
must be nearly xmas!. lol.
no mate timesaver is the cast iron two piece collar with a bubber inside fernco coupling is the all rubber with jubbly clips which is the one i would use
 
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