what would you recommend

[mutley racers]

Morning chaps, hope you are all having a great weekend and chilling n sun. I need some ideas really, the picture below is of a bathroom that is small. Has a 1400mm bath. Client wants to replace this bath with a double shower. But, you can see that the toilet soil pipe runs through the vanity unit and under the bath. But the bath waste is lower down on a seperate run. I just want to know what to do with the soil pipe? How to box it in and really, make it look like a good finish. I don't want it to be a mission to silicone around that side of the tray, but the boxing will come higher than the shower tray. Hope that make sense.

 

[mikegas]

Just stud it out to ceiling height, board and tile, fit the h+c shower feeds behind

 

[Dotty]

Install a saniflo, reduce the size of the pipe, could probably drop it under floor.

 

[rpm]

If you use a saniflo just remember the discharge pipe must have a 1:100 fall and any rise in the pipe must be at the start of the run so don`t go under the floor and then run the pipe up again by even 1inch or the warranty is void.

 

[Masood]

Could be the ideal opportunity to move things around. Put the toilet against the wall where the soil exits, so where the bath is now, then put the shower elsewhere, maybe where the vanity unit and toilet currently are.

 

[rpm]

Sounds good to me. Only use a sani when you have no other option.

 

[Phil]

Put 1200mm shower tray (or 1100mm) where the bath is and as said studwork up to ceiling to meet the tray with shower feeds to conceal the soil pipe. this arrangement is widely used in new builds with internal soil stacks.

 

[mutley racers]

Thanks fellers. Good plans there. The dry wall sounds like a decent option.

 

[Howsie]

Could be the ideal opportunity to move things around. Put the toilet against the wall where the soil exits, so where the bath is now, then put the shower elsewhere, maybe where the vanity unit and toilet currently are.

This would be my preference.

 

[Dave Walker]

I would put a stud wall up and incorporate a recess in to this as a design.

 

[mutley racers]

Thanks chaps, can anyone recommend a good make of shower tray and door. 1200×800. And a nice little vanity unit to go in th room also. I would like a nice heavy resin one I guess. With a plumbkit to raise it.

I cannot go under the floor with waste as some people have suggested as it is in a block of flats. Also, when studding onto concrete floors and ceilings, can you just us gripfil without fixings as am not sure what will be in the concrete? Or shall I just check with detector tool and drill? Scary thought.

The place is only to be rented so no need to put recesses in shower. Like the idea though

 

[TBServices]

I would put a stud wall up and incorporate a recess in to this as a design.

Me too, leave a nice little shelf for shampoos etc.

Or adjust the layout if possible

 

[mutley racers]

I will not be able to adjust the layout as I will not be able to get the fall for the shower really. And there would be a problem with the door hitting shower tray

 

[SimonG]

The stud would be my answer but no plasterboard, use a concrete board or hardibacker. I'd probably use a Mira Flight or Mira Fligh Low tray.

 

[mutley racers]

Hardibacker it is. Thanks for the advice guys

 

[Aquazone]

Third for the recess in the stud. Little bit of extra work, but so worth it. In a large shower, you need somewhere to store toiletries.
And it's win win. Custard will love it and you won't have to move soil.

 

[Phil]

I would love to have a recess (niche) next to the toilet with three sea shells on it, only a certain few people would get the joke.

 

[Resolute]

I would love to have a recess (niche) next to the toilet with three sea shells on it, only a certain few people would get the joke.

Demolition Man?!

 

[Phil]

Demolition Man?!

Yes! I'm imprressed.

 

[mutley racers]

when using shower trays, with or without upstands?

 

[mutley racers]

i like demolition man. Great film. Recess hey, you guys seem to like them. Also, someone suggested putting the pipework for shower behind the stud. But if i did do this, the shower would not be in the middle of the tray?

Also, can I just gripfil battens to the floor and ceiling with the studs or do i need proper fixings?

 

[Plum Bob 66]

That depends on weather you feel it's a god idea to have access to the trap at a later date should any blockage issues arise. Unless the customer states otherwise its riser kit every time.

 

[Plum Bob 66]

i like demolition man. Great film. Recess hey, you guys seem to like them. Also, someone suggested putting the pipework for shower behind the stud. But if i did do this, the shower would not be in the middle of the tray?

Also, can I just gripfil battens to the floor and ceiling with the studs or do i need proper fixings?

Not quite sure what you mean by shower in the middle of the tray. It's the norm to bring the hot n cold feeds up through the stud work, spaced and clipped correctly to line up with the valve, then your elbows out through the pb or hardibacker dependant on weather it's a recessed or exposed valve.

Re batons, if it a wood floor I would just use long wood screws, job done.

 

[mutley racers]

The stud wall will be on the right hand side of the shower tray where soil pipe runs. So the width of shower tray. I need them really to be at the centre at the back where bath is now.

So just use normal tray with riser kit. No upstand yea

 

[mutley racers]

It's in flats so probably concrete floors

 

[Plum Bob 66]

In that case sleeve anchors bottom, screw top batten to the two end pieces and grip fill the top edge that meets the ceiling.

 

[Plum Bob 66]

The stud wall will be on the right hand side of the shower tray where soil pipe runs. So the width of shower tray. I need them really to be at the centre at the back where bath is now.

So just use normal tray with riser kit. No upstand yea

No mate, you will need an upstand unless the waste pipework is already sunk under the floor, otherwise you won't get the fall.

 

[Plum Bob 66]

I take it you got the job then ?

 

[mutley racers]

Hehe. I did indeed

 

[Plum Bob 66]

Cool now you have to figure out how to do it, right ?

Like I said in my pm, nay bother

Ps, cheap vanity unit in Wickes £89 notes not bad looking neither

 

[mutley racers]

Upstand is the shape of tray or something isnt it? Something to do with tiles. Definitely need the feet for the fall.

 

[Dave Walker]

I thought up stands were the lip on top to tile in to and legs were riser kits

 

[mutley racers]

That's what I'm thinking

 

[Phil_Plumb]

yeah thats what i thought too - upstands were for the tiler to tile onto thereby effecting a watertight seal, and riser kits were legs to rise the tray up inorder to provide access to trap etc

 

[Plum Bob 66]

yeah thats what i thought too - upstands were for the tiler to tile onto thereby effecting a watertight seal, and riser kits were legs to rise the tray up inorder to provide access to trap etc

Are yes, now I see what you mean I've heard riser kits being called upstand a in the past. In that case I would recommend a tray with upstand to tile down onto. That way it ain't ever going to leak at the bottom seem.

 

[mutley racers]

Well nightmare 1st day. Tiles wouldn't come off without bringing the render with it. View attachment 13849

 

[mutley racers]

Also look what I found whil searching for mains stopcock

 

[mutley racers]

Shall I take it all back to brick and dot and dab or get a plasterer to fix it? Didn't mention to the client the possibility of this happening

 

[mutley racers]

Sorry the picture above is all blurry

 

[woodytheplumber]

dot and dabbing is fairly easy and staright forward use 12mm moister resistant everywhere apart from the shower area use a cement board there some can be adhesive on some cant so you may have to batten out a little bit but from reading your posts you are studwalling so that's all ok if you dot and dab using 8x4s I allow 1 bag of drywall addy per 2/3 boards depending on how far out the walls are you will need a solid bead of addy at somepoint behind the board for fire regs I put mine at the top and if you get the nack and get all your dots and the solid bed something like the same depth place the board onto the addy lift up off the floor tight to the celling with a pry bar and wedge then tap into level and squaire I use a 1800 and a 1200 level for dot and dabbing and a framing square from screwfix to ensure my internal corners are true in all ways when dot and dabbing give the walls a quick coat of srb thinned with water about 1 parts srb to 2 parts water and remember if your tilling it the plasterboard can hold more weight in tiles and adhesive unskimmed than it can when fully skimmed so just tank where appropriate and tile the lot hope this helps

 

[woodytheplumber]

give the walls a sbr befor dor and dabbing I didn't make that clear sorry and then follow manufactures destructions on the tile adhesive after when using bal tile addy I like to use bal's Sbr type gear just for any potential comeback

 

[mutley racers]

Thats great. Thanks for the advice feller. What's srb by the way?

 

[woodytheplumber]

its very similar to pva but with the heat and moister it wont become jelly like apparently pva does I have probably done 20/30 bathrooms using pva and not had a problem but from speaking to a plaster'er mate of mine he says use srb if the wall is very long like say over 4M it is sometimes worth stringing a chalk line and snapping it across the floor first to make sure your boards don't end up looking like the north sea

 

[woodytheplumber]

BAL Bond SBR Primer 1ltr | Topps Tiles I buy the Dunlop sbr for dot and dabbing and brand specific for tilling only because the Dunlop from selco is very good value! don't think I have ever got anything else from there though ha ha!

 

[mutley racers]

Awesome. Great advice there. Thank you

 

[woodytheplumber]

I also forgot to add since talking to my plaster mate probs 2 years ago I have only used sbr and not have a issue! and if your using 8x4s a solid bead at the top then 7 dobs down and 4 dobs across is plenty!!

 

[mutley racers]

So 28 dobs and 1 solid line? Specific. Also, how many inches in from outside edges

 

[woodytheplumber]

2 or 3 inches from outside edges for me once its all gone off they are rock solid!

 

[TBServices]

SBR is amazing stuff. You can put it on the dustiest, crumbliest, oldest wall, and when it's dried, all the dust is properly stuck to the wall and its tacky to the touch. Brilliant.

 

[woodytheplumber]

did you do any today mutley? how did you get on? its a messy job but fairly easy don't you think?