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what would you recommend

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Also look what I found whil searching for mains stopcock 20130710_113103.jpg
 
Shall I take it all back to brick and dot and dab or get a plasterer to fix it? Didn't mention to the client the possibility of this happening
 
dot and dabbing is fairly easy and staright forward use 12mm moister resistant everywhere apart from the shower area use a cement board there some can be adhesive on some cant so you may have to batten out a little bit but from reading your posts you are studwalling so that's all ok if you dot and dab using 8x4s I allow 1 bag of drywall addy per 2/3 boards depending on how far out the walls are you will need a solid bead of addy at somepoint behind the board for fire regs I put mine at the top and if you get the nack and get all your dots and the solid bed something like the same depth place the board onto the addy lift up off the floor tight to the celling with a pry bar and wedge then tap into level and squaire I use a 1800 and a 1200 level for dot and dabbing and a framing square from screwfix to ensure my internal corners are true in all ways when dot and dabbing give the walls a quick coat of srb thinned with water about 1 parts srb to 2 parts water and remember if your tilling it the plasterboard can hold more weight in tiles and adhesive unskimmed than it can when fully skimmed so just tank where appropriate and tile the lot hope this helps
 
give the walls a sbr befor dor and dabbing I didn't make that clear sorry and then follow manufactures destructions on the tile adhesive after when using bal tile addy I like to use bal's Sbr type gear just for any potential comeback
 
its very similar to pva but with the heat and moister it wont become jelly like apparently pva does I have probably done 20/30 bathrooms using pva and not had a problem but from speaking to a plaster'er mate of mine he says use srb if the wall is very long like say over 4M it is sometimes worth stringing a chalk line and snapping it across the floor first to make sure your boards don't end up looking like the north sea
 
I also forgot to add since talking to my plaster mate probs 2 years ago I have only used sbr and not have a issue! and if your using 8x4s a solid bead at the top then 7 dobs down and 4 dobs across is plenty!!
 
2 or 3 inches from outside edges for me once its all gone off they are rock solid!
 
SBR is amazing stuff. You can put it on the dustiest, crumbliest, oldest wall, and when it's dried, all the dust is properly stuck to the wall and its tacky to the touch. Brilliant.
 
did you do any today mutley? how did you get on? its a messy job but fairly easy don't you think?
 
High woody, no didn't get around to it. Removed all tiles off the other side of bathroom and found lots of loose electrical cables going in all directions and not in conduit. Sparky said not good. So now have to wait for him to re-route them. Is he right in saying that cables shouldn't be routed in walls in bathrooms?
 
Well after all the info you guys gave me the clients ended up getting the place plastered. And now, all of the walls are wonky ane I cannot get a square edge any where. Tried cutting out bits of wall and it is a no go. 20130722_172858.jpg
 
I don't do tiling. She has oganised someone else. Think I am going to learn and insist that I do all the dot and dabbing and tiling from now on as this is just too much.

All the pipework is put together with compression fittings and I kicked a pipe and nudged it now I see a drip coming down the back of a corner unit in kitchen. Not looking forward to getting to that.

Must be nice when you work as a couple as then you can laugh at it. But on your own, it is not such fun. Below are some images of what else I found on this little cracker
 
How much leeway do you get when installing shower screen? As if the tray is 1200 including the upstand, and the tiles go over the upstand, it will be less than 1200mm. So is there room to play with?
 
Recessd sliding door one that is. Here must be some as with the walls 1200 without tiles, and the hardibacker needs to cover upstans then around 30 to 40mm will be lost. If you know what I mean
 
Check before you buy it mutley some have big adjustment levels some have very small ones, sometimes you're better off getting an 1100 door with a couple of extension pieces
 
most go slightly over by 10 mm but reduce a lot more usually 40mm or possibly more i wouldnt overlap the hardibacker just the tiles
 
Oh no, am going to need it to reduce around 35 to 50mm. Cannoy see anu thing in instructions about it though.
 
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