Very very Hight Co2 ppm old Myson velarie... Help

[Best]

Thanks Kris . Ill cherish that. Ill up pressure to start with..

You don’t need to up the oil pressure to achieve combustion on that burner.
100 psi will even be fine, although it probably should be 120 at least.
Something else is badly wrong.
Edit, - 150 psi is too much, despite it being on an old specification that Kris has kindly put on.

 

[Best]

not sure before my time. Could not see any names it is Orange.. looks same as this pic

View attachment 36172

Just suddenly realised you said burner is orange in colour!
The air “door” on the orange burners is a round piece of metal band that is adjustable by a bolt and is a stupid idea because it can block with dust where it gradually tightens.

 

[RayPlumb]

Yes and a thin threaded adjustment shaft to adjust with. I think im going to order 3uf capacitor and have another look another look Monday. Just feel bad about leaving with no heat..

 

[RayPlumb]

I have the manual for the Myson Velaire boilers.
That burner is the old Electro oil Swedish burner and is a superb burner.
It should be easy to set up.
I assume the nozzle assembly has not been tampered with?
You either have a faulty new nozzle (unlikely) or the motor is knackered.
The capacitor should not make any difference to that motor functioning once it starts.

If the pump is knackered would it not spin less or could it spin more. The client says it is a lot quieter now. And it does sound ok. Is it normal for start up sequence to be.. fan spark then at start 4 second later coil and ignition. Aftet 10 seconds electrodes go off. The nozzel sits about 4mm below blast tube.

 

[RayPlumb]

The nozzle assembly on these burners. Do they have an air diffuser? One i changed straight shaft with nozzle at end held central by a ring bracket off blast tube.

 

[bacon_sandwich]

The capacitor is "tuned" to the windings of the motor. Its the way you get the right phase of magnetic field to make the motor turn. I would always replace with exactly the same spec of capacity, including material type and voltage spec. Its not going to run faster on full load but may run more erractic. When you close off the air it reduces the load on the fan, if you open the air to max, that will give you a better idea if the fan can work OK. Its not a huge difference in size of cap, but i would not do it as it may causes premature fan failure later down the line. Hope this helps.
The reason i believe its a run capacitor as its very low in value, start capacitors are much much bigger, plus a fan has so little load at rest that it can start without a start cap. I order Caps from RS components, they have loads of them

 

[Best]

The capacitor is "tuned" to the windings of the motor. Its the way you get the right phase of magnetic field to make the motor turn. I would always replace with exactly the same spec of capacity, including material type and voltage spec. Its not going to run faster on full load but may run more erractic. When you close off the air it reduces the load on the fan, if you open the air to max, that will give you a better idea if the fan can work OK. Its not a huge difference in size of cap, but i would not do it as it may causes premature fan failure later down the line. Hope this helps.
The reason i believe its a run capacitor as its very low in value, start capacitors are much much bigger, plus a fan has so little load at rest that it can start without a start cap. I order Caps from RS components, they have loads of them

I haven’t much of an idea about motor types, as not a spark, but all I can add to that is those motors on the burner can be started by hand and will work fine until they have to stop and start again.
The OP said he changed the oil pump, so I assume the motor might be faulty and is very little money (comes complete with capacitor)
But I think the air is set too high and that is the first thing to check.
On those burners the air should be shut down to lowest numbers of approx 2 or below I think.

 

[Best]

The nozzle assembly on these burners. Do they have an air diffuser? One i changed straight shaft with nozzle at end held central by a ring bracket off blast tube.

I would be concerned that the boiler is running quieter because that could mean it is sooting.
Your blast tube will be one piece type.
The air setting is far too high.
You should have used a smoke pump and lower the air setting until the boiler can still work ok still with close to zero smoke reading.
The CO2 should then be the reading to alter to achieve about 10% and no more than 11% on that

 

[bacon_sandwich]

Dont know oil, closest to that for me is Riello burners and their knockoffs on NG
Sometimes i am so far out, i cannot even get it to start, he has it starting and has some readings so by trial and error he can tweak it. I was also think too much air but he has air closed right down, very confusing.

 

[Best]

Dont know oil, closest to that for me is Riello burners and their knockoffs on NG
Sometimes i am so far out, i cannot even get it to start, he has it starting and has some readings so by trial and error he can tweak it. I was also think too much air but he has air closed right down, very confusing.

Yes, I think the OP has been thinking parts are faulty, rather than working on the air setting.
The air adjuster on those old orange coloured Electro oil burners is very misleading as it will look like it is near closed off with it being a metal band, but it actually could be still allowing a lot of air in.
The motor on oil burners turns a fan and the oil pump, so can be under load with oil pump as they can be tight to turn.