Tile backer board recommendations

[jrtrrror]

Hi again.
Any recommendations on a lightweight, reasonably priced tile backer board? Preferably at least 800mm wide.
Ideally 2400 X 800 or larger
Ta

 

[Knappers]

The only tile backer boards I know are the cement hardie type ones and I wouldn't want to be moving a 2.4m one around much.
I've not used any composite ones and not even seen any the kinda size your after.
Google thew up some 2500 x 600 ones tho?...

 

[king of pipes]

You will struggle to find boards that size and in my opinion there not necessary as it hard to transport them and they are easily damaged , so its better to fit smaller manageable sheets , Uheat have them in stock . Kop

 

[jrtrrror]

I cant really get my head around the best thing to do to be honest. The situation is as follows. I have a shower enclosure which is slightly too small for the new shower tray. In a way this works to my advantage. I think. Why, because I stupidly bought 3mm wet wall panels. I didn't forsee the issues this would cause. (The panels not being thick enough to overlap the tray sufficiently)
Because I have very carefully chased out the plasterboard along two of the walls(the RHS and the rear wall) I can slot the tray onto these channels which then allows the 3mm panels to sit nicely on top of the tray and overlap it by around 5mm. However, this means that I have a gap between the tray and the wall on the LHS. I have bought an Aquaseal tanking kit to tank the walls and floor. I wanted to buy a lightweight tile backing board to place over the tray at the LHS. Therefore ensuring that the tray is overlapped. Much like a 8mm of tile adhesive, plus a 10mm wall tile would overlap the shower tray. I have prepped the channels with primer and will start coating the channels with the waterproofing. Obviously down to the floor.
I can't get my head around whether to...
1. Tank the walls down to and including the original floor.
Or
2. Tank down the walls and on to the OSB 3 board that will support the tray.

And on the LHS, do I tank down the original plastered wall to the original floor.

And the backer board that will only be fitted on the LHS... should I actually be tanking that instead instead of the plastered wall?
In my mind, in this application, should I be looking at the backer board as simply the bed of adhesive under the tiles. Just something to make up the gap?
If this is case, do i just buy some moisture resistant plasterboard and tank that. Although it wouldn't reach the OSB3 deck or the original floor.
Are you confused?
I am!

D

 

[king of pipes]

6mm Shower board on the left hand side down to the floor good quality silicone around 3 sides , tuck tray into groove and lower slowly push into place and tool off leave to cure .

 

[SimonG]

I use hardie backer. For overboarding floors and just the paint on tanking kit from mapei

 

[jrtrrror]

Hi. I didn't really want a heavy Hardie Backer. I did find these STS backer boards from Wickes. (I need a board that I can pick up from a shop) They appear to be lightweight and they are not being used with porous tiles/grout, but instead wall panels.
5hanks for your input by the way

 

[king of pipes]

Hi. I didn't really want a heavy Hardie Backer. I did find these STS backer boards from Wickes. (I need a board that I can pick up from a shop) They appear to be lightweight and they are not being used with porous tiles/grout, but instead wall panels.
5hanks for your input by the way

They will do the job bud

 

[jrtrrror]

They will do the job bud

Thanks KOP.
Music to my ears.

 

[gmartine]

They will do the job bud

They will, but they're the same weight as hardibacker ~ 14kg per 12mm sheet.

 

[Timmy D]

They will, but they're the same weight as hardibacker ~ 14kg per 12mm sheet.

You might be confusing the backer boards with construction board.

Backer board is internally foam and about 2.5kg per board.
Construction board is internally solid cement and about 14kg.

 

[Timmy D]

I would sit tray in a centered position between left and right walls.
I’d then use foam core tile backer board on left and right walls (ideally all 3).
Then I’d seal the bottom of boards to tray with backer board sealant.
Then tape and seal all backer board joints and corners with liquid membrane (mapei tanking paste).
The boards are water resistant so not 100% needed but I’d then paint the whole lot with tanking paste.

If you need to dot/dab any boards to bring them out, dab it, attach board, then insert screw but don’t fully tighten screw until the dabs have dried.