Discuss HRM Wallstar Oil Boiler - Advice please in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net
I'd be checking electrode position, once had to fit a burner upside down due to this, don't ask me what difference it should make, but it ran like a train after.
Also at excess air as DaveyHep was alluding to a couple of posts back.
Components changed so far are capacitor, clear hose, fire valve/nrv, photocell, solenoid and ebi transformer. Also DKO control box replaced in 2012 but was doing this prior to this. Boiler was serviced in September.I hear pre purge and solenoid click, fuel flows and sounds like ignition, then it sounds and looks like fuel stops flowing and burner stops a second before lockout. What parts did you say were changed?
At the moment I would be checking what the pressure does moments before flame stops, you could have a dodgy coupling slipping or the pump drive keys is on it's way out. The capacitor and motor seem fine and to answer one of your previous questions I would check to see if the old capacitor is screwed into motor frame, it looks like theres a collar there but I cant remember off the top of my head.
Yeah pretty much, I’ve been with other half 5 years and we had mainly used immersion heater for hot water and kept pressing reset to get boiler started for heating or used log burner in living room.So this has been a problem since 2012?
Boiler sometimes will work ok for 7 days before it suddenly locks out.I'd be checking electrode position, once had to fit a burner upside down due to this, don't ask me what difference it should make, but it ran like a train after.
Also at excess air as DaveyHep was alluding to a couple of posts back.
I’ve taken photo and attached it.From what I've seen and heard from video is its igniting, then theres a loss of flame during safety time and it's going to lockout. It could be as Simon above suggested about air it could also be what I said. Have you taken black cover off the front to expose air damper adjuster and made a note of what setting it's on.
I don't want to argue Si because I know you're competent but have a look and listen to the video. I'd be checking what I said first as its clearly igniting, yes electrodes and air affect these as we all know but the video is telling me more than that.
the problem with the boiler has always presented it self, it’s just that we’ve made do with it and worked around it.It looks like it's in the right area but without test equipment i couldn't say for sure. So help us further, how often have you been using the immersion and log burner? 8 years is a long time where if you were using the boiler more often the problem will have presented itself by now.
Yeah it’s trying to start up like in the video and just keeps locking out.Just going straight to lockout?
Tried that but made no difference, pressed reset button again and let it start as normal and it started. I’m totally confused.......Stick a couple of fingers over the air intake on the burner to see if it fires. Don't block it just reduce the amount of air its pulling in.
Yeah think so, can see pump drawing oil, transformer is sending spark to electrode and then goes lockout.Solenoid click but no ignition?
Ok no probs, thank you for your help.From what I've seen, heard and read I'm still leaning towards a pump issue. I'm not saying it is but it's what I'd run a couple tests on first. To prove or disprove ignition and atomization things have to be done but I'm not going to say what. It could be air related as well but I'm not convinced.
I cant say anymore, from here on in it needs a decent engineer with good experience and the right gear.
No never taken burner out before. Although I work as a mechanical fitter im not confident with taking burner apart.Have you taken the burner out before?
If you have, take it out and take a picture looking down the blast tube. Make sure you unplug coil or turn it all off.
Will give most things ago but know when I’m at my limits lol.No problem, respect somebody who knows there limits.
Was the nozzle changed at the last service?
Whereabouts in the country are you?
Yeah sure will. Hopefully if I get sorted I’ll be able to pass on my fix to someone else.By all means update us if you get a result.
Bacon, sausage and egg butty???Too far for me. Hope you find somebody to sort it and please let us know what the problem was.
Boiler started up 1st attempt this morning.......Fool the photocell into seeing light once burner fires and see if burner continues to fire while photocell out. Handy on Sterling burners.
That will prove flame is poor for some reason or photocell had obstructed view.
Does sound like flame burn is barely making it
Boiler started up 1st attempt this morning...
I did try this awhile ago. I think when I removed photocell burner continued running but when I covered photocell it shutdown if my memory serves me correctly.
Just a quick question, the capscrew that is in the main body of the burner just below the black plastic cover for the photo cell etc is that what is undone when boiler serviced? If so should the gasket be replaced?Nozzle being damp is fine. Dont like the position of the electrodes though.
That capscrew is seriously tight, should the gasket be replaced when burner is split?The Alan key under the black cover is used to undo and remove the burner, you've detached the whole thing. The electrodes don't look right in terms of position and could be part of the reason it doesn't light sometimes, it doesn't explain why it sometimes ignites and then loses flame during 5 second safety time though.
That capscrew is seriously tight, should the gasket be replaced when burner is split?
wish id paid more attention to what he was doing when he serviced it.
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I’ve contacted a 3 local heating engineers, 1 said he would go with pump bring issue. 1 said possibly pump but wouldn’t be sure and the other said it’s the control box.
Found that image in the HRM handbook. Just didn’t know about how tight that screw should be? Used to screws and bolts having torque setting on them lol.View attachment 42435
Image from manual to show the long bolt you should be removing. Blast tube looked ok, usual wear and tear but overall in acceptable condition. Couldn’t see if there were any obstructions to the cell though
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