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Discuss Gas valve for hob behind cupboard. in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

Matt0029

Gas Engineer
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1,136
When installing a gas hob the required isolation valve usually falls behind the cooker. That is removed by unscrewing 4 screws. I'm wondering if its seen acceptable by most to use a compression gas isolation valve in such a position. . Thanks
 
It’s not an end user valve, they would shut off the ECV in an emergency.
Fine to use a compression valve.

I was told this on a gas safe inspection
 
Fine behind the oven
 
These Hob installation instructions also say that the isolation valve should be accessible. This is the same pic that I posted in the other thread.

9932732C-A36B-407A-B032-043A0664887F.jpeg
 
But what would take longer, removing 4 screws or emptying 3 drawers full of pans and pottery or food tins/boxes? For as long as mans been installing integrated units, a gas cock has been behind a under worktop oven... gas or electric.
Like you said, it’s for servicing for a gas safe engineer.
 
How do we define 'accessible'?

That's all it needs to be to be able to use compression on Gas.

It is up to the on site Engineers discretion to define that, in that particular situation.

It's not always easy to make your mind up though, lol.
 
How do we define 'accessible'?

That's all it needs to be to be able to use compression on Gas.

It is up to the on site Engineers discretion to define that, in that particular situation.

It's not always easy to make your mind up though, lol.
I'd define something accessible if you can get it easily by using basic hand tools. A screwdriver to remove 4 screws and pull an oven out would be accessible in my opinion.
 
So then why doesn’t that count for flues in voids why can they not be screwed. Why do they have to be proper hatches?

I’d imagine that a customer allowing internal decoration to be damaged from removing screw or even finding screws under wallpaper, would be very difficult. Where as purpose built hatches are easily accessible and hard to wall paper over o_O
 
So then why doesn’t that count for flues in voids why can they not be screwed. Why do they have to be proper hatches?
Dont hatches only apply to flues that are inaccessible? That would again come down the engineer, if I came to a flue where the boxing could easily be removed by taking out a few screws I wouldn't class that flue as inaccessible.
 
I’d imagine that a customer allowing internal decoration to be damaged from removing screw or even finding screws under wallpaper, would be very difficult. Where as purpose built hatches are easily accessible and hard to wall paper over o_O
But you could damage the oven or cupboard by removing the oven? Six of one and half a dozen of the other me thinks.
 
Dont hatches only apply to flues that are inaccessible? That would again come down the engineer, if I came to a flue where the boxing could easily be removed by taking out a few screws I wouldn't class that flue as inaccessible.

Lol, you tell Mrs Smith down the road, that you want to remove her 2 month old painted and caulked boxing.

You’ll get a quick feckoffski....
 
The scenario is ‘ the boxing has screws in it too’ covered in lovely fresh two month old paint, but to remove the panels, would require cutting the caulk and damaging the painted screw heads
Instead of a brand be £700 electric oven she has just had fitted and you need to remove it to get to the gas tap for the hob.
 
The scenario is ‘ the boxing has screws in it too’ covered in lovely fresh two month old paint, but to remove the panels, would require cutting the caulk and damaging the painted screw heads
But again this all comes down to the engineer, there is nothing concrete saying access hatches have to be used, if you can remove the boxing in a reasonable amount of time and without damaging any decor then I wouldn't personally say an access hatch is required.
 
Instead of a brand be £700 electric oven she has just had fitted and you need to remove it to get to the gas tap for the hob.

Yep, I get what you mean HF. But really, how many times do you isolate the gas cock to work on it? I bet you turn off the ECV to stop the gas.
I all honesty, they’re just another item waiting to leak, when the grease dries up.... waste of time and money
 
I think that behind an inbuilt cooker is accessible.
I would use a compression Gas cock in that position.
These ovens are easily removed normally and by one man too.
I can have one out in less than two minutes but if it is a worry, put the Gas cock behind the next cupboard and drill a hole in that so it is visible.
When all is said and done the connection to the hob provided by manufacturers is a face joint with a fibre washer on one side and a male taper thread the other side. I know I have seen more leaking joints up there than leaking Gas cocks. Again, Engineers discretion.
At the end of the day there is no list of what is accessible or not.
It is the same for sparks. They can use joint boxes as long as they are accessible. Most of those are beneath carpets and floor boards with no clue of where they are. At least with a hob you can suspect that there is something to isolate it somewhere behind one of the cupboards.
 

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