first time plumbing in wc

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pipeline

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evening men,, here are a few pics of a WC i recently fitted for a friend of mine, and before u all rip the job to shreads lol.. i did the job free of charge just to gain some experience, as i havnt done much plumbing prior to this. the plumber who was ment to fit the toilet was thrown off the job, because they had a few problems with the quality of the work.. anyway i posted the pics so i could get some constuctive critisism.. thanks men

also.. the soil stack was quite far away from where the sink is, so thats why the waste for the sink is on the inside, but after fitting it i thought to myself i could of taken the waste pipe outside and come back in and connected it to the back of the toilet that way.. thats if i had the core drills to do it. anyway thank again



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600/900mm flexi's? Looks terrible if its a floating basin, wouldnt of been that bad if was a pedestal.

Why have you put a drain off in? Doesnt look like this is where the CW enters the dwelling?
(Sorry just interested why you put it in)

Should of put a extension 4" waste in then the bent pan connector and drilled in a 1 1/4" waste connector to get the basin waste low as possible.

Good for a first try though :) nxt time dont use as many straights (look under basic after the york 90* and before the flexi connectors :)
 
Flexis not ideal especially when there is no pedestal so the world can see their flexible uglyness, but if you are going to use them try and find some shorter ones so they are not quite as prominent, but they are straight which is good.
 
Rub the green marks where you have been soldering too. Thats flux which has dryed :)
 
I would put the Talon clips on your hot and cold pipes to the sink, just under the ISO’s – to stop the water moving the very pipe work, you never know.
 
Koogatubac said:
600/900mm flexi's? Looks terrible if its a floating basin, wouldnt of been that bad if was a pedestal.

Why have you put a drain off in? Doesnt look like this is where the CW enters the dwelling?
(Sorry just interested why you put it in)

Should of put a extension 4" waste in then the bent pan connector and drilled in a 1 1/4" waste connector to get the basin waste low as possible.

Good for a first try though :) nxt time dont use as many straights (look under basic after the york 90* and before the flexi connectors :)
Click to expand...


im gussing this type of basin is for a room where all the connections are hidden in the wall.... and this room is an extention which is only single block.

the only way i could turn the water from this pipe off is from the road outside,, but is not the only place where the water enters the building, i just thought u had to use a drain off after the stopcock.

ill have a look in the wickes catouloge for those connections, but cant picture them as i dont know what they are. also didnt understand the last bit about the straights.. thanks
 
What size is the waste pipe from the basin? It looks 1 ½” to me!?
 
Try to keep your trvs on rads straight looks better :p, use soldering matt while soldering and wipe down joints after. also that basin waste looks high should of made it lower for boxing in. in all fairness every plumber started out installing like this, you just eventually get better with experience. good job :)
 
looks like the flexis came ready fitted to the mixer but i would always try to coil them high up under the basin purely to look better
 
MrMeek said:
Try to keep your trvs on rads straight looks better :p, use soldering matt while soldering and wipe down joints after. also that basin waste looks high should of made it lower for boxing in. in all fairness every plumber started out installing like this, you just eventually get better with experience. good job :)
Click to expand...

Agree on bent TRV. you've done an unnecessary bend under toilet but not bent rad pipe. Seems strange to me.
 
not to bad for your first you will get better and quicker. i take it that its gettin boxed in ?
 
Good on you for posting up and asking for feedback. It will serve you well if you take the (valid) comments on board.

Well done again for a first effort.
 
Nope. Dealing with a major incident for one of the lads.

Lump of wood and a nail. Can't say anymore. But almost posted a 'What would you do thread' but thought better of it.
 
you know now you have to spill the full story ! but thats a totally different story and pictures would be needed ! im hoping it involves his hands and nothing below the waist
 
@pipeline - Good on you for having the guts to tackle not only a WC, but a basin AND rad to boot! Have to applaud you for asking for 'constructve criticism' too, constructive criticism is always good and you seem to be taking it on board like a champ.

A few questions; What was the problem with the original plumber, and what plumbing jobs have you attempted/done before this?
 
TBServices said:
Agree on bent TRV. you've done an unnecessary bend under toilet but not bent rad pipe. Seems strange to me.
Click to expand...

i forgot to say that i didnt fit the rad.. also that bend was necessary but then i altered the pipe undernearth so the bend wasnt needed, i payed for the copper and fittings myself so didnt want to change it. thanks
 
Set out your clips before starting pipework. Those clips can be pushed together to make double clips, looks neater to have them as doubles, than dotted about all over the place. Some of the pipework isn't level in places.

Not a bad attempt at all, I've worked with "plumbers" who can't do work to that standard!!
 
Sorry pipeline, i went to sleep :)

Where i meant about straights is;

- underneath your basin before the flexis and above the copper 90* fittings you have put a copper fitting (straight), looks like you have used off cuts here.
(Just a comment mate :))
Agree with everyone, this is very good for your first attempt.

Also in regard to stopcock. If this isnt the primary place it comes in, you dont have to put a drain off after every stopcock.
Tip: i steer away from using stop cocks and use lever valves due to the fact of less likely to break down. You could of got away with just using isolation valves on WC and BASIN :)

That drain off you'll most likely never use in its life..
 
Very brave of you to put those pictures up here, it is very easy to critise people's work. Not saying that people haven't given you constructive crisitism, they have, but still brave of you to post your work.

Keep pictures of this on your pc and the next job you do you'll look back at these as a comparison and laugh, you'll think 'how long did it take me to do that', what was I thinking, as time progresses you'll work faster, more accurately, more economically, you'll buy tools that'll make the job quicker and easier etc.

For me, I am not going to critise just say well done and your very brave. I am glad the forum members have been kind,

Wait until system 3 sees those flexis though, he'll be crying from the highlands to lands end, (his pet hate is flexi's, please lets not debate this again)
 
It might not be the prettiest plumbing in the world but it's a fair attempt for a newbie. Agree with the above post about some 'professional plumbers' not working to to this standard ;)
By the way, that toilet looks like the very thing another forum member is looking for, a cc where the waste can be taken straight down while allowing the back of the cistern to reach the wall. There's a recent thread asking for just that on here.
 
will the pipes be boxed in or painted?
if they are on show then the bit more cost for chrome does look worth it.
what is the iso valve on the hot pipe above the stop tap for, presuming to avoid having to drain of later as the work progressed??
best to avoid that, unless its a full bore valve you will be limiting flow.
 
Those flexis are better going onto a 15mm x 1/2" male bsp rather than straight onto the iso valvesImageUploadedByTapatalk1356955900.096362.jpg
 
Mikegas what's your reasons for not connecting flexis directly onto Iso valves? Just curious
 
MrMeek said:
... also that basin waste looks high should of made it lower for boxing in.
Click to expand...

He could go much lower with it. It could be lower by about an inch, by using a 1 1/4" street elbow to go into the pan connector.
 
it's because iso valves are meant for nut and olive. so therefore have a sharper edge which cuts into the rubber washer in the flexi, with a comp/male iron you have a flat edge to seat the washer on.
 
Didnt notice that lads.
If your going to use flexi's make sure they go on a FLAT FACE fitting (male/female irons) DONT put them on fittings such as equal conpression straights.

Reason:
If the inside fitting is chamfered down (compression straight) the rubber in the flexis when tight will deform the rubber and in time they cause leaks and fail!

If you think of a flat face fitting like the male/female irons, when you tighten the flexi which has the rubber part that creates the seal, the rubber compresses onto the flat fitting and CANT deform.

Another tip! (Past year ive only realised this!)
 
I understand the logic but i have swapped taps ten tears and older that have flexis onto isolation valves and its never caused issues in the whole lifetime of the tap. So i would wager that statistically its unlikely to fail in 12 month after which its a chargeable call back :)

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2
 
Its exactly the same thing as other stuff what you not supposed to do but still happens throughout plumbing :)
 
Koogatubac said:
Its exactly the same thing as other stuff what you not supposed to do but still happens throughout plumbing :)
Click to expand...

Aah you mean everyone else gets away with it but always bites you on the bum:)

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2
 
Hello men,, been meaning to get back to u all, but my 2 year old son has been ill with a sickness bug and havn't been able to get on the laptop.. anyway im very gratefull for all your comments and have taken everything u've said on board,, im also gratefull that you didnt go to hard on me lol.. i know its not the prettiest and there's lots of things that i would do differntly after reading your comments, im gona buy a daimond core drill set from screw fix 2moro, so i might go back and put the waste on the outside as it irritates the hell out of me being that high up, also if i had more time i would probably have lowered the hot and cold water pipes and droped the pipes behind the skirting boards and boxed them in using the skirting.. but couldnt really afford to do that much work.. as i have my other work to get on with, which is how my interest in plumbing come about.. Every radiator i take off allways seems to leak and one day i took off a relitively newly plumbed in rad and it was leaking from everywhere, so my old man had to come out and drain the system down, and solder a new bit pipe in.. and since then ive gone plumbing mad, reading books, watching dvds, videos on you tube, i read on here most nights plus im in colleage in the evenings doing level 1 at the minute.

Going back to one of the comment, the fella who was ment to have done the work, imo did a good job on the other bathroom but was being rushed by his boss, and was working quickly enough.. The reason the firm was thrown off the job was beacuse one of the pipes chased in to the wall in bathroom started to leak, also one of pipes connected to the rad in the toilet that i was working in blew off and flooded the down stairs,, the house was being renovated at the time so nothing got damaged.. plus the bath trap/waste leaked and damaged the kithen ceiling,, but apart from that everything else was fine.. and i put it down to the fact that the fella's boss was always trying to make him work faster.

after reading all your comments i went out and did some reaserch and the only one thing i couldnt figure out, is how to connect copper staright to a monoblock tap with out using flexis? also those flexis that i used were the one that came with the tap so i just used them. plus someone mentioned about connecting the waste to an 4'' extention, would that be done using a strap on boss? thanks again.. pipeline
 
pipeline said:
after reading all your comments i went out and did some reaserch and the only one thing i couldnt figure out, is how to connect copper staright to a monoblock tap with out using flexis? also those flexis that i used were the one that came with the tap so i just used them.
Click to expand...
flexi's are fine, the ones you got are a bit long but whatever, you can get the soft copper tails, but flexis are much more common now
 
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