first time plumbing in wc

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first time plumbing in wc

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pipeline

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evening men,, here are a few pics of a WC i recently fitted for a friend of mine, and before u all rip the job to shreads lol.. i did the job free of charge just to gain some experience, as i havnt done much plumbing prior to this. the plumber who was ment to fit the toilet was thrown off the job, because they had a few problems with the quality of the work.. anyway i posted the pics so i could get some constuctive critisism.. thanks men

also.. the soil stack was quite far away from where the sink is, so thats why the waste for the sink is on the inside, but after fitting it i thought to myself i could of taken the waste pipe outside and come back in and connected it to the back of the toilet that way.. thats if i had the core drills to do it. anyway thank again



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It might not be the prettiest plumbing in the world but it's a fair attempt for a newbie. Agree with the above post about some 'professional plumbers' not working to to this standard ;)
By the way, that toilet looks like the very thing another forum member is looking for, a cc where the waste can be taken straight down while allowing the back of the cistern to reach the wall. There's a recent thread asking for just that on here.
 
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will the pipes be boxed in or painted?
if they are on show then the bit more cost for chrome does look worth it.
what is the iso valve on the hot pipe above the stop tap for, presuming to avoid having to drain of later as the work progressed??
best to avoid that, unless its a full bore valve you will be limiting flow.
 
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it's because iso valves are meant for nut and olive. so therefore have a sharper edge which cuts into the rubber washer in the flexi, with a comp/male iron you have a flat edge to seat the washer on.
 
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Didnt notice that lads.
If your going to use flexi's make sure they go on a FLAT FACE fitting (male/female irons) DONT put them on fittings such as equal conpression straights.

Reason:
If the inside fitting is chamfered down (compression straight) the rubber in the flexis when tight will deform the rubber and in time they cause leaks and fail!

If you think of a flat face fitting like the male/female irons, when you tighten the flexi which has the rubber part that creates the seal, the rubber compresses onto the flat fitting and CANT deform.

Another tip! (Past year ive only realised this!)
 
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I understand the logic but i have swapped taps ten tears and older that have flexis onto isolation valves and its never caused issues in the whole lifetime of the tap. So i would wager that statistically its unlikely to fail in 12 month after which its a chargeable call back :)

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2
 
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Hello men,, been meaning to get back to u all, but my 2 year old son has been ill with a sickness bug and havn't been able to get on the laptop.. anyway im very gratefull for all your comments and have taken everything u've said on board,, im also gratefull that you didnt go to hard on me lol.. i know its not the prettiest and there's lots of things that i would do differntly after reading your comments, im gona buy a daimond core drill set from screw fix 2moro, so i might go back and put the waste on the outside as it irritates the hell out of me being that high up, also if i had more time i would probably have lowered the hot and cold water pipes and droped the pipes behind the skirting boards and boxed them in using the skirting.. but couldnt really afford to do that much work.. as i have my other work to get on with, which is how my interest in plumbing come about.. Every radiator i take off allways seems to leak and one day i took off a relitively newly plumbed in rad and it was leaking from everywhere, so my old man had to come out and drain the system down, and solder a new bit pipe in.. and since then ive gone plumbing mad, reading books, watching dvds, videos on you tube, i read on here most nights plus im in colleage in the evenings doing level 1 at the minute.

Going back to one of the comment, the fella who was ment to have done the work, imo did a good job on the other bathroom but was being rushed by his boss, and was working quickly enough.. The reason the firm was thrown off the job was beacuse one of the pipes chased in to the wall in bathroom started to leak, also one of pipes connected to the rad in the toilet that i was working in blew off and flooded the down stairs,, the house was being renovated at the time so nothing got damaged.. plus the bath trap/waste leaked and damaged the kithen ceiling,, but apart from that everything else was fine.. and i put it down to the fact that the fella's boss was always trying to make him work faster.

after reading all your comments i went out and did some reaserch and the only one thing i couldnt figure out, is how to connect copper staright to a monoblock tap with out using flexis? also those flexis that i used were the one that came with the tap so i just used them. plus someone mentioned about connecting the waste to an 4'' extention, would that be done using a strap on boss? thanks again.. pipeline
 
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pipeline said:
after reading all your comments i went out and did some reaserch and the only one thing i couldnt figure out, is how to connect copper staright to a monoblock tap with out using flexis? also those flexis that i used were the one that came with the tap so i just used them.
Click to expand...
flexi's are fine, the ones you got are a bit long but whatever, you can get the soft copper tails, but flexis are much more common now
 
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It is good practice to connect them to a flat face of a male fitting, rather than the chamfered edge of a ballofix. Seen plenty of leaks caused by the ballofix tearing the rubber washers.
 
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pipeline said:
and since then ive gone plumbing mad, reading books, watching dvds, videos on you tube, i read on here most nights plus im in colleage in the evenings doing level 1 at the minute.
Click to expand...

If you haven't already found him, check out 'The Tom Plumb' on youtube, he's a proper no nonsense old school plumber and half of his videos are funny as hell. He even smashed his phone with a hammer in one of them cos it went off when he was doing his video ;)

Here's one of him smashing up his multimeter.
[video=youtube;rtEZg5wFJIQ]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rtEZg5wFJIQ[/video]
 
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being a novice myself i like that you have posted these up, it gives reassurance and also tips to others like myself!
Like the solvent weld rather than push fit. The waste is high but i think i would have done the same. The only differences i think i would have made is that i like a chrome trap if exposed and i would have used flexi's (sorry) but much shorter ones. Does this have to be removed and refitted for tiling?
 
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