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Discuss first time plumbing in wc in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

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evening men,, here are a few pics of a WC i recently fitted for a friend of mine, and before u all rip the job to shreads lol.. i did the job free of charge just to gain some experience, as i havnt done much plumbing prior to this. the plumber who was ment to fit the toilet was thrown off the job, because they had a few problems with the quality of the work.. anyway i posted the pics so i could get some constuctive critisism.. thanks men

also.. the soil stack was quite far away from where the sink is, so thats why the waste for the sink is on the inside, but after fitting it i thought to myself i could of taken the waste pipe outside and come back in and connected it to the back of the toilet that way.. thats if i had the core drills to do it. anyway thank again



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600/900mm flexi's? Looks terrible if its a floating basin, wouldnt of been that bad if was a pedestal.

Why have you put a drain off in? Doesnt look like this is where the CW enters the dwelling?
(Sorry just interested why you put it in)

Should of put a extension 4" waste in then the bent pan connector and drilled in a 1 1/4" waste connector to get the basin waste low as possible.

Good for a first try though :) nxt time dont use as many straights (look under basic after the york 90* and before the flexi connectors :)
 
Flexis not ideal especially when there is no pedestal so the world can see their flexible uglyness, but if you are going to use them try and find some shorter ones so they are not quite as prominent, but they are straight which is good.
 
Rub the green marks where you have been soldering too. Thats flux which has dryed :)
 
I would put the Talon clips on your hot and cold pipes to the sink, just under the ISO’s – to stop the water moving the very pipe work, you never know.
 
600/900mm flexi's? Looks terrible if its a floating basin, wouldnt of been that bad if was a pedestal.

Why have you put a drain off in? Doesnt look like this is where the CW enters the dwelling?
(Sorry just interested why you put it in)

Should of put a extension 4" waste in then the bent pan connector and drilled in a 1 1/4" waste connector to get the basin waste low as possible.

Good for a first try though :) nxt time dont use as many straights (look under basic after the york 90* and before the flexi connectors :)


im gussing this type of basin is for a room where all the connections are hidden in the wall.... and this room is an extention which is only single block.

the only way i could turn the water from this pipe off is from the road outside,, but is not the only place where the water enters the building, i just thought u had to use a drain off after the stopcock.

ill have a look in the wickes catouloge for those connections, but cant picture them as i dont know what they are. also didnt understand the last bit about the straights.. thanks
 
What size is the waste pipe from the basin? It looks 1 ½” to me!?
 
Try to keep your trvs on rads straight looks better :p, use soldering matt while soldering and wipe down joints after. also that basin waste looks high should of made it lower for boxing in. in all fairness every plumber started out installing like this, you just eventually get better with experience. good job :)
 
looks like the flexis came ready fitted to the mixer but i would always try to coil them high up under the basin purely to look better
 
Try to keep your trvs on rads straight looks better :p, use soldering matt while soldering and wipe down joints after. also that basin waste looks high should of made it lower for boxing in. in all fairness every plumber started out installing like this, you just eventually get better with experience. good job :)

Agree on bent TRV. you've done an unnecessary bend under toilet but not bent rad pipe. Seems strange to me.
 
not to bad for your first you will get better and quicker. i take it that its gettin boxed in ?
 
Good on you for posting up and asking for feedback. It will serve you well if you take the (valid) comments on board.

Well done again for a first effort.
 
Nope. Dealing with a major incident for one of the lads.

Lump of wood and a nail. Can't say anymore. But almost posted a 'What would you do thread' but thought better of it.
 
you know now you have to spill the full story ! but thats a totally different story and pictures would be needed ! im hoping it involves his hands and nothing below the waist
 
@pipeline - Good on you for having the guts to tackle not only a WC, but a basin AND rad to boot! Have to applaud you for asking for 'constructve criticism' too, constructive criticism is always good and you seem to be taking it on board like a champ.

A few questions; What was the problem with the original plumber, and what plumbing jobs have you attempted/done before this?
 
Agree on bent TRV. you've done an unnecessary bend under toilet but not bent rad pipe. Seems strange to me.

i forgot to say that i didnt fit the rad.. also that bend was necessary but then i altered the pipe undernearth so the bend wasnt needed, i payed for the copper and fittings myself so didnt want to change it. thanks
 
Set out your clips before starting pipework. Those clips can be pushed together to make double clips, looks neater to have them as doubles, than dotted about all over the place. Some of the pipework isn't level in places.

Not a bad attempt at all, I've worked with "plumbers" who can't do work to that standard!!
 
Sorry pipeline, i went to sleep :)

Where i meant about straights is;

- underneath your basin before the flexis and above the copper 90* fittings you have put a copper fitting (straight), looks like you have used off cuts here.
(Just a comment mate :))
Agree with everyone, this is very good for your first attempt.

Also in regard to stopcock. If this isnt the primary place it comes in, you dont have to put a drain off after every stopcock.
Tip: i steer away from using stop cocks and use lever valves due to the fact of less likely to break down. You could of got away with just using isolation valves on WC and BASIN :)

That drain off you'll most likely never use in its life..
 
Very brave of you to put those pictures up here, it is very easy to critise people's work. Not saying that people haven't given you constructive crisitism, they have, but still brave of you to post your work.

Keep pictures of this on your pc and the next job you do you'll look back at these as a comparison and laugh, you'll think 'how long did it take me to do that', what was I thinking, as time progresses you'll work faster, more accurately, more economically, you'll buy tools that'll make the job quicker and easier etc.

For me, I am not going to critise just say well done and your very brave. I am glad the forum members have been kind,

Wait until system 3 sees those flexis though, he'll be crying from the highlands to lands end, (his pet hate is flexi's, please lets not debate this again)
 
It might not be the prettiest plumbing in the world but it's a fair attempt for a newbie. Agree with the above post about some 'professional plumbers' not working to to this standard ;)
By the way, that toilet looks like the very thing another forum member is looking for, a cc where the waste can be taken straight down while allowing the back of the cistern to reach the wall. There's a recent thread asking for just that on here.
 
will the pipes be boxed in or painted?
if they are on show then the bit more cost for chrome does look worth it.
what is the iso valve on the hot pipe above the stop tap for, presuming to avoid having to drain of later as the work progressed??
best to avoid that, unless its a full bore valve you will be limiting flow.
 
Those flexis are better going onto a 15mm x 1/2" male bsp rather than straight onto the iso valvesImageUploadedByTapatalk1356955900.096362.jpg
 
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