Do you use a wet pressure tester?

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Do you use a wet pressure tester?

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markadams

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Hi,

I have always just trusted my soldering and filled the system slowly and checked each joint visually. I have done a few jobs where I am plumbing refurb from scratch and I am now wondering if I should really buy a wet pressure tester and do a proper test.

I have never really had a problem before but never say never.

Do you pressure test?
 
if your first fixing copper pipework that will be hard to access once the floors, ceiling and walls are finished then it can be a very good idea to pressure test the pipework. If its plastic is always good to pressure test.
 
I always pressure test. I just pump it up with a track pump I use a push fit scraeder valve
 
I test all new property at first fix. A load of speedfit caps and away you go.
Its a bit like taking an umbrella out so it doesn't rain. If you test you probably won't have any leaks, but if you don't you probably will!
 
I think you are right, it is time to buy a pressure tester, which one would you recommend?

Mark.
 
I have the plastic tanked rothenberger one. Takes ages to fill so if you can use a hose at first its quicker.
 
Chalked said:
I have the plastic tanked rothenberger one. Takes ages to fill so if you can use a hose at first its quicker.
Click to expand...

Yeh fit a tee on end of hose off hand pump fit a nrv or valve to branch then bush on a hose lock end. / easy to pre fill and isolate .
 
<sponsor alert>

Have a look at [DLMURL="http://www.tradeonlyplumbing.co.uk/tools-consumables/tools/testing-equipment/plumbing-testing/tt40-pressure-testing-pump.html"]one of these[/DLMURL].
 
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Ray Stafford said:
<sponsor alert>

Have a look at [DLMURL="http://www.tradeonlyplumbing.co.uk/tools-consumables/tools/testing-equipment/plumbing-testing/tt40-pressure-testing-pump.html"]one of these[/DLMURL].
Click to expand...

to everyone who isn't registered with Williams. GET IT DONE NOW. If you need a pressure pump. That is half the price of any of any out there.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
New builds we do are pressure tested and sometimes extensions as said if there is many concealed joints, have had a 15mm elbow before that had a crack in it and didn't realise untill filling the system back up.
If it's not winter sometimes leave the system under pressure with a gauge on it, it may pass but that's not to say that another trade will damage a part of it or even worse in the past, sabotage it.
 
As I have not got the pressure tester YET, I tested this installation which consists of 120 metres of pipe and a lot of joints by connecting the hot and cold together and flow and return together. I connected a pressure gauge to the end on a washing machine valve so I could bleed the air out first.

I connected it to the 5 bar mains water and filled the pipework, after bleeding it I visually checked the joints and then left the pressure gauge connected for 4 hours.

System tests 100% no drop, so it is ready for the walls and ceilings to be boarded (-:
 
markadams said:
As I have not got the pressure tester YET, I tested this installation which consists of 120 metres of pipe and a lot of joints by connecting the hot and cold together and flow and return together. I connected a pressure gauge to the end on a washing machine valve so I could bleed the air out first.

I connected it to the 5 bar mains water and filled the pipework, after bleeding it I visually checked the joints and then left the pressure gauge connected for 4 hours.

System tests 100% no drop, so it is ready for the walls and ceilings to be boarded (-:
Click to expand...
nothing wrong with doing it that way. It's under the same pressure that it will have when commissioned. But when using a pressure pump you test over the working pressure.
Tbh I don't know what pressure is recommended, ( hope someone will tell us) i do my instals at 9 bar for no apparent reason. :skep:
 
Should be tested at 1.5 times maximum working pressure. Plastics manufacturers may wan't it tested to a higher pressure. I believe JG ask for ten bar to set the fittings.
 
Mike Jackson said:
Should be tested at 1.5 times maximum working pressure. Plastics manufacturers may wan't it tested to a higher pressure. I believe JG ask for ten bar to set the fittings.
Click to expand...

I try to avoid that nasty plastic stuff, copper all the way for me.
 
air testing is dangerous compared to using wata, especially if you dont have control of the property.

the damage a push fit cap end could do at just a few bar is scary.
 
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Yeah I almost knocked a tiler out once when doing an air test. Cap to the back of his head... Ops
 
Mike Jackson said:
Should be tested at 1.5 times maximum working pressure. Plastics manufacturers may wan't it tested to a higher pressure. I believe JG ask for ten bar to set the fittings.
Click to expand...

and i think its polypipe or hep who require 16 bar...
 
Ray the one your'e flogging has no product info.
what is the max pressure and tank size etc

cheers
 
AWheating said:
air testing is dangerous compared to using wata, especially if you dont have control of the property.

the damage a push fit cap end could do at just a few bar is scary.
Click to expand...

Excuse my ignorance, but what is the difference between bussing a cap in front of 5 bar of air or 5 bar of water?
 
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