Baxi solo 30HE, Experienced advice?

[Ted808]

This is an elusive problem.
The boiler keeps goin to lock out when it's on DHW only, fella has to reset it sometimes 3xday, yet i was there for hour n half nothing, after reset when I arrived...
I checked gas inlet pressure-19mB with both HW+CH on.. maybe i shoulda done it with only HW?
Checked condensate trap and the next thing on the 'fault finding list' is the flame detection probe- damaged...
My question is... cuz i not seen any broken ones before... how do i know it's knackered.. the thing bothering me is that it works sometimes...?
So, do I just get a replacement electrodes kit, then change it. I mean time wise and money wise.
Been on to their techi help line, still no obvious solution.
Need some experienced advice.... anyone?

 

[Mike Jackson]

How are the lights flashing when it locks out?

 

[jtsplumbing]

Have you run through all of the fault finding in the Ignition and overheat lockout section of MI ? has customer got them ?

 

[diamondgas]

Ted 808, sometimes with intermittent faults you have to start somewhere or the custard looses faith ... I've explained on many occasions that I can not be 100% but lets start with the cheapest possible cause and take it from there! Always seek their permission and be honest ........... You could measure the spark/detection electrode gaps and check the earthing on the electrode and boiler. Poor earth's can lead to rectification notification issues....

 

[Poxi]

My question is... cuz i not seen any broken ones before... how do i know it's knackered.. ... anyone?

You measure the resistance of the electrodes, Is there a coating of Carbon on them ??..If ignition L/O then always change the electrodes

 

[Ted808]

The lights are on - off - on. MI say ignition fault. Following fault chart. Got to the bit with the electrode.. but ran out of time, have to go back.

 

[Ted808]

Thanks diamongas.. will add that to my list to check next time.. and I look forward to solving the problem...

 

[Ted808]

You measure the resistance of the electrodes, Is there a coating of Carbon on them ??..If ignition L/O then always change the electrodes

Thanks poxi, think I will get a set of electrodes before my next visit, gotto start doing something.

 

[Poxi]

Thanks diamongas.. will add that to my list to check next time.. and I look forward to solving the problem...

If ignition L/O then always change the electrodes

Trust me on this one :25:

 

[mfgs]

The electrodes are a common fault on these, definitely start with them.

 

[Ted808]

How are the lights flashing when it locks out?

No flashing on - off - on only.

 

[Anton]

A possibility is if the combustion door seals have gone, (red colour seals) the heat hits an overheat thermostat on the fan and this will give lockout.
Another cause can be the syphon. It has a cable linked to the flame detection probe which is screwed into the top of the syphon, if any water gets to this connection it will cause lockout.

 

[Ted808]

A possibility is if the combustion door seals have gone, (red colour seals) the heat hits an overheat thermostat on the fan and this will give lockout.
Another cause can be the syphon. It has a cable linked to the flame detection probe which is screwed into the top of the syphon, if any water gets to this connection it will cause lockout.

Cheers will look into these as well. When u say syphon u mean at the back on top of the condensate? I checked that, connections dry.
If it was the combustion door seals, my question is why would it only be when in DHW only mode? me scratch head? I'll take some seals with me too.
Will i need them in future?? :0

 

[Anton]

These seals are a regular problem. They are on the inner combustion door. I always carry a spare set. They go brittle and perish and let the hot gases blow into the space near the fan and hit the fan overheat thermostat. I don't know why it seems to be on hot water only, so I could be wrong.
The diagnostic indications on these boilers are as much use as a chocolate fireguard. I am fairly sure these boilers were badged as Pottertons originally until Baxi took them over. As I said, I would check these seals anyway, because they do perish.

 

[Anton]

Is this a heat only boiler? I only ask because there is a combi version (can't remember offhand what it was called) with the same boiler parts/body and all the combi guts on the top.

 

[Anton]

Yes, the syphon at the rear left hand side. The status of the lights at the time of failure is important. The flashing left hand one does not necessarily mean ignition lockout on its own. You need to know what the status of the other two lights are.
This boiler was originally a Potterton Promax, re-cased and re-badged as a Baxi later on.

 

[Ted808]

Yeah thats the syphon/condensate trap i cleaned but it wasn't blocked to over flowing so that the wires were wet...
Also it is a gravity DHW and CH system, and has been working ok for about 2-3yrs- until custard moved in 5mnths ago.
The lights when gone to fault, on-off-on, on the list (on the flap)
indicate = ignition.
It does light and as i said the blinker ran for a full hour n half while i was there but i bet as soon as i left it went out!! Tho' custard hasn't called to say..... yet..

 

[JackBournemouth]

These boilers are terrible, constant issues with the condensate trap, electrodes, combustion door seals and explosive ignition/general noise issues, if you haven't solved it yet check for continuity between the connections on top of the condensate trap, just because they don't appear to be damp doesn't mean its not causing a problem, also check for moisture in the vent pipe going from the gas valve to the inner case

 

[Ted808]

I thought I'd heard/experienced that B4...custard decided to go with (Npower?) for the £199 fixed fee guarentee fix rate, option!? Dunno how they do it... I think he got worried when I said that I'd start with changing the electrodes and then the combustion door seals and see if that sorted it out. I was bit annoyed and then glad! Had lots of learning out of it anyway.