8mm to 10mm compression coupling

[1animal1]

Hi, What are peoples opinions about an 8mm-10mm reducer compression fitting. I am about to have the plasterers in and wanted to get rid of the visibly annoying 8mm pipes - the plan was to compression fit beneath the floor boards to 10mm speedfit and then up through the back of the rads and on to Peglar push fit reducer bends (10-15mm), mounted to a 15mm TRV/lockshield.

I'll probably get rid of the 8mm where possible in the long term as whole carpets come up, where I'll use a new compression joint to tie into the 10mm speedfit pipe. Until that day however I think it's worthwhile converting the visible rad runs to centre exit whilst the walls are being filled.

Any flaws in my plan?

Tim

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Hi, What are peoples opinions about an 8mm-10mm reducer compression fitting. I am about to have the plasterers in and wanted to get rid of the visibly annoying 8mm pipes - the plan was to compression fit beneath the floor boards to 10mm speedfit and then up through the back of the rads and on to Peglar push fit reducer bends (10-15mm), mounted to a 15mm TRV/lockshield.

I'll probably get rid of the 8mm where possible in the long term as whole carpets come up, where I'll use a new compression joint to tie into the 10mm speedfit pipe. Until that day however I think it's worthwhile converting the visible rad runs to centre exit whilst the walls are being filled.

Any flaws in my plan?

Tim

yea still using 8mm

 

[1animal1]

Jobs a good en I only had the full seal inserts which wouldn't allow the olives over the top... I've since bought the basic inserts just in case. When refilling the seals compression joints leaked slightly, but I'd only nipped them, so did a few small adjustments until any leaking stopped. Hopefully they'll be good when the radiator goes back on. Using pegler pusb fit 15mm/10mm reducing elbows. Please excuse the walls and skirting, plasterers due shortly.

 

[Stigster]

You can put the nut on the pipe first, then the olive and then put the pipe insert with seals on last.

 

[1animal1]

Hi Stig, I did that with the 2nd one and it still wouldn't mount, ended up having to cut an inch off to remove the piece with the insert in. Will use the slim basic inserts for the next one i do, in hope.

 

[Stigster]

Those plain inserts will be absolutely fine.

 

[plumben]

The Inserts with rubber o rings on are for push fit fittings, the plain ones with no o rings are for compression, they alow the pipe to be pushed into the fitting more, the superseal inserts usually leak or will leak with compression fittings

 

[1animal1]

Well heres hoping my first two insertless connections stand the test of time would either of you redo these joints installing the inserts? The system is filled up again with no leaks on these joints currently... The rad is still off though until the plastering has been done

 

[Rckape]

Personally I'd definitely remake the joints that don't have inserts. I'd be forever worrying about them going.

 

[plumben]

Well heres hoping my first two insertless connections stand the test of time would either of you redo these joints installing the inserts? The system is filled up again with no leaks on these joints currently... The rad is still off though until the plastering has been done

They might not leak under normal circumstances but what if someone was to knock the rad or the pipe/valve with the super seal inserts the olive is on the end of the pipe nearly so wouldn't take much to pull it off

 

[Stigster]

I definitely would remake with inserts. I've been paranoid enough to have gone back and checked if I've been distracted for some reason.

 

[1animal1]

Thanks all, noted and will address when I convert a second rad next week, when the system will be drained again. I suppose the other consideration is that the water isn't yet flowing through those pipes and they may not be fully flooded with the end caps being on.

Other question... When refilling a gravity fed system, aside from bleeding the rads and pump prior to turning the heating or water on... Is the system largely self bleeding? I've found it does self bleed quicker if I turn the pump down, unsure if that helps, it certainly sounds like it with the bubbles noises

 

[Rckape]

It depends mainly on your system design and construction. In the vast majority of cases it should be fine and self bleed through the rads, vent, and/or any AAV's fitted.

 

[1animal1]

It seems to settle after a few days so I'll run with what I've been doing. It'll be drained a few more times yet as I'm working my way through the flushing the rads. Thanks rckape.