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Discuss To add inhibitor into towel radiator in the Gas Engineers Forum area at PlumbersForums.net

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Hi,

I want to add inhibitor into towel radiator for the heating system. I saw from Youtube that people normally open the radiator vent plug from bottom, either left or right (photo 4 and 5). But I saw someone opened from top which looks easier.

Please see the attached photos 2 and 3, should I just use wrench to turn the radiator vent plug? There's a small part in the centre of the vent plug, this seems is to use screw driver?---I don't think I need to use screw driver to do anything with that, do I ?

Once I open it, then put a hose into it, and inhale it quickly so the radiator water will come out till all out, then I can add inhibitor, is this right?

Thanks!
 

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Turn both valves off.

Put something to collect water (rubble sack) on the floor under one of the many compression elbow joints.
Loosen compression elbow joint so water drains out. Open bleed nipple with a bleed key or flat screw driver to assist/speed up draining.
Once you have drained 2 litres, tighten compression elbow to stop draining.
Then use spanner to completely remove bleed valve.
Pour inhibitor into now open bleed vent hole.
Reinstall bleed vent and tighten. Tighten bleed screw.
Open bottom valves.
Bleed towel rail.
 
Turn both valves off.

Put something to collect water (rubble sack) on the floor under one of the many compression elbow joints.
Loosen compression elbow joint so water drains out. Open bleed nipple with a bleed key or flat screw driver to assist/speed up draining.
Once you have drained 2 litres, tighten compression elbow to stop draining.
Then use spanner to completely remove bleed valve.
Pour inhibitor into now open bleed vent hole.
Reinstall bleed vent and tighten. Tighten bleed screw.
Open bottom valves.
Bleed towel rail.
Thank you Timmy for your detailed reply! Really appreciate it!

That looks a bit difficult for me to touch so many things---I am not skilful in terms of this kind of thing :)

I remember last time(over one year ago), the engineer used wrench to turn the radiator top right the radiator vent plug, then use a hose to get water out. Something like below picture theory.

images


It looked easy. Is that correct way to do from top? I actually saw Youtube that they opened from bottom and get water out as you said as well.
 
Obviously after turning off both rad valves then yes you could syphon water out.
I would recommend releasing pressure from bleed screw to make sure valves are working before taking nut off.
Also if you insert hose to bottom of rad and kink it where it comes out, then pull mostly out and down before releasing the kink, you won't need to suck on the pipe - it will prime itself.
 
Obviously after turning off both rad valves then yes you could syphon water out.
I would recommend releasing pressure from bleed screw to make sure valves are working before taking nut off.
Also if you insert hose to bottom of rad and kink it where it comes out, then pull mostly out and down before releasing the kink, you won't need to suck on the pipe - it will prime itself
Thank you Knappers!
turning off both rad valves----did you mean, like picture 4 and 5, the bottom left and right, i.e. the right one to turn the valve to 0, the left one to turn it to close?
 
Yes both bottom valves 4 inches after the pipes come out the wall.
Did you mean the pipes come out the ground?
The right valve (the attached first photo) to turn it to 0; The left one (the attached second photo), I tried to turn (the arrow points to), it can be turned to right (to left is stuck, to the end already), which means it will be closed, right?
If correct, then to turn both valve off first, then to turn the top right vent plug (the attached third photo, with arrow) open, to add inhibitor from there, is that correct?

Thanks a lot!
 

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Did you mean the pipes come out the ground?
The right valve (the attached first photo) to turn it to 0; The left one (the attached second photo), I tried to turn (the arrow points to), it can be turned to right (to left is stuck, to the end already), which means it will be closed, right?
If correct, then to turn both valve off first, then to turn the top right vent plug (the attached third photo, with arrow) open, to add inhibitor from there, is that correct?

Thanks a lot!
Yes, turn right valve to zero and left valve clockwise as far as possible.

The open vent in third pic at top with the bleed key (small stub) until no more water comes out to prove valves are closed.

Once proven, get spanner and open vent at top fully (big nut) and remove
 
Yes, turn right valve to zero and left valve clockwise as far as possible.

The open vent in third pic at top with the bleed key (small stub) until no more water comes out to prove valves are closed.

Once proven, get spanner and open vent at top fully (big nut) and remove
Thanks!
After both valves turned off.
"The(n) open vent in third pic at top with the bleed key (small stub) until no more water comes out to prove valves are closed."----To use bleed key to turn(anti-closed wise, right?) the small stub to open it (the red arrow points to)---there will be water out? If no more water, means the valves are closed?

Then use spanner to open the vent (the big nut) and just add the inhibitor via a hose?

By the way, before doing all these, do I need to shut the valve on the cylinder and the valve controlling the pipe under the sink?

For you should be easy, for someone like me never touched it, every step is a new thing to do.

Thanks again!
 

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Once the towel rail valves are closed there’s no need to close any other valves around the house.

There will only be a little pressure. Just close the valves and open the top vent but with a towel. You’re not gonna flood the place, at most might be half a cup of water on the floor!
 
Once the towel rail valves are closed there’s no need to close any other valves around the house.

There will only be a little pressure. Just close the valves and open the top vent but with a towel. You’re not gonna flood the place, at most might be half a cup of water on the floor!
Yep - once you get to half a cup you know the valves aren't holding
 
Once the towel rail valves are closed there’s no need to close any other valves around the house.

There will only be a little pressure. Just close the valves and open the top vent but with a towel. You’re not gonna flood the place, at most might be half a cup of water on the floor!
Thank you very much Timmy for you being helpful and patient!
Have a great weekend!
 

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