Unless its a very temporary repair, I really wouldn't. Do you need heating just at the mo, or can you wait for a pro to repair properly?
With the heat in central heating you will get both effect of high heat and lots of expansion contraction, which will stress the joints and work the flexi reducing its lifetime. So as Simon says its not rated for central heating.
Purpose of flexis is to make easy to fit, not for moving applications (its not a GP car).
Beneath the floor you won't spot when it starts to leak, and will probably have happily forgotten about it. How much will big damage cost.
My own rule is soldered behind fixed walls and floors. Is the floor easy to take up? or does that damage the covering.
For the fire risk of soldering, vaccum and sweep up first, damp down, use heat mats in any peripheral areas, and a piece of old tin behind the joint. Burn any paint off the tin outside first. Heat mats wont handle sustained heat. Have an extinguisher handyband/or hose (water supply on) and dont walk off afterwards. Stuff can smoulder for hours. I would avoid or be very careful / take further precautions if heat can go into any hidden areas e.g. behind dry lined walls full of spiders webs etc.
Remember if soldering you can get sraight couple sliding fittings, if you can't bend the pipes back far enough to get the new elbow in.
If you dont solder and really cant get a pro to do a proper job, then think I'd go for compression joints, and leave access for a while so you can check no minor leak e.g. next winter.
Last silly question: What is the age of the house please? I've also got one (circa 1995) full of hasty (and now corroded) Yorkshires behind the walls, no leaks yet . . .
Anyhow, the very best of luck,
Cheers,
Roy
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Unless its a very temporary repair, I really wouldn't. Do you need heating just at the mo, or can you wait for a pro to repair properly?
With the heat in central heating you will get both effect of high heat and lots of expansion contraction, which will stress the joints and work the flexi reducing its lifetime. So as Simon says its not rated for central heating.
Purpose of flexis is to make easy to fit, not for moving applications (its not a GP car).
Beneath the floor you won't spot when it starts to leak, and will probably have happily forgotten about it. How much will big damage cost.
My own rule is soldered behind fixed walls and floors. Is the floor easy to take up? or does that damage the covering.
For the fire risk of soldering, vaccum and sweep up first, damp down, use heat mats in any peripheral areas, and a piece of old tin behind the joint. Burn any paint off the tin outside first. Heat mats wont handle sustained heat. Have an extinguisher handyband/or hose (water supply on) and dont walk off afterwards. Stuff can smoulder for hours. I would avoid or be very careful / take further precautions if heat can go into any hidden areas e.g. behind dry lined walls full of spiders webs etc.
Remember if soldering you can get sraight couple sliding fittings, if you can't bend the pipes back far enough to get the new elbow in.
If you dont solder and really cant get a pro to do a proper job, then think I'd go for compression joints, and leave access for a while so you can check no minor leak e.g. next winter.
Last silly question: What is the age of the house please? I've also got one (circa 1995) full of hasty (and now corroded) Yorkshires behind the walls, no leaks yet . . .
Anyhow, the very best of luck,
Cheers,
Roy
Errrm. . . Apologies I should also have said, the hardest bit if soldering will be getting any remaining water out first, and I guess you may not have much access upstream/downstream without taking house to bits. So myself as an amateur I'd want to borrow a decent compressed air supply and somewhere to connect it on each side ofnthe break. Snag with not doing that is system may well drip INto the joint area for hours, and enough to blow your soldering out. Pros of course have the experience and tricks to make it easy for them . . . not something you can put into words.