So .. I bought this new kitchen sink mixer tap..

[chucka]

ok I thought op or someone mentioned a burn mat etc higher up
chking

I must have missed that in the replies. I dont mind getting something to protect the backing.. I'm just wondering if it will separate (after removing the bolt) with some heat. The two joints are close together, fortunately...

You all know more than me..

I have done since copper pipe solder joints previously.. Though more accessible.

 

[centralheatking]

Before you get going un soldering things, usually pipes from taps go down in my experience. How are you going to get the water out they will not come apart with a lamp until you have burnt the house down,
So I take it you will use a roller cutter below, then let the water out then put the lamp to the tails centralheatking

 

[chucka]

Before you get going un soldering things, usually pipes from taps go down in my experience. How are you going to get the water out they will not come apart with a lamp until you have burnt the house down,
So I take it you will use a roller cutter below, then let the water out then put the lamp to the tails centralheatking

Thanks for your reply..

there are drain offs on both hot and cold supplies directly under each .... (they went that far and then made the tap job, awkward!)

I agree that it would have been better to have been fitted differently in the first place but 'IF' the water is clear of these two pipes.. in your opinion do you think they will separate quickly enough (not burn the house down with the heat) at the first butt joints, 9 inches down from the tap bloc?.

Did the tap assemble that way in the first place, do you think?

it would be a quick job if It was

 

[Best]

Why would you try to solder or unsolder any fittings below the sink????
No need to. Just cut the pipe tails to the tap, remove tap, cut pipes below sink to suitable heights and/or cut a piece out of horizontal pipes to get vertical pipes further apart.
Use compression valves or fittings onto pipes that are within cupboard. (You can bench solder any pipes to be added if you wish).
Nothing wrong with compression joints below sink if easier to use.
The person that installed the tap using soldered connectors directly to the copper tails has actually done a worse job than compression would have been

 

[centralheatking]

Thanks for your reply..

there are drain offs on both hot and cold supplies directly under each .. (they went that far and then made the tap job, awkward!)

I agree that it would have been better to have been fitted differently in the first place but 'IF' the water is clear of these two pipes.. in your opinion do you think they will separate quickly enough (not burn the house down with the heat) at the first butt joints, 9 inches down from the tap bloc?.

Did the tap assemble that way in the first place, do you think?

it would be a quick job if It was

look just get a roller cutter ...turn off cold main, drain hot .
open all your taps top to bottom, until they stop spluttering
then get a big old bath towel...to soak upthe water cut in and go for it.
As long as you have a couple of ballofixes fitted even if you get the rest wrong u can turn the rest on and keep your wife
centralheatking

 

[chucka]

Why would you try to solder or unsolder any fittings below the sink????
No need to. Just cut the pipe tails to the tap, remove tap, cut pipes below sink to suitable heights and/or cut a piece out of horizontal pipes to get vertical pipes further apart.
Use compression valves or fittings onto pipes that are within cupboard. (You can bench solder any pipes to be added if you wish).
Nothing wrong with compression joints below sink if easier to use.
The person that installed the tap using soldered connectors directly to the copper tails has actually done a worse job than compression would have been

I'm definitely not being bloody minded here and do not want to be disrespectful of anyone here, but, in my mind 'IF' the original assembly went in with the tap tails already fitted/screwed into the tap bloc and then the tap offered down through the sink top hole with the tails sliding into the two solder butt joints ,9" down from the top, surely with a little heat they would (after removing the threaded rod) both separate there too and let you pull the tap up out of those joints. That would not improve on the original plumbers method; I understand that, but if the new one went in the same way i'd not complain... Am i wrong in assuming it will not separate at those joints?

I'm sure it worked in the parallel universe..

 

[centralheatking]

I'm definitely not being bloody minded here and do not want to be disrespectful of anyone here, but, in my mind 'IF' the original assembly went in with the tap tails already fitted/screwed into the tap bloc and then the tap offered down through the sink top hole with the tails sliding into the two solder butt joints ,9" down from the top, surely with a little heat they would (after removing the threaded rod) both separate there too and let you pull the tap up out of those joints. That would not improve on the original plumbers method; I understand that, but if the new one went in the same way i'd not complain... Am i wrong in assuming it will not separate at those joints?

I'm sure it worked in the parallel universe..

go for it let us know how you get on v
chking

 

[Best]

I'm definitely not being bloody minded here and do not want to be disrespectful of anyone here, but, in my mind 'IF' the original assembly went in with the tap tails already fitted/screwed into the tap bloc and then the tap offered down through the sink top hole with the tails sliding into the two solder butt joints ,9" down from the top, surely with a little heat they would (after removing the threaded rod) both separate there too and let you pull the tap up out of those joints. That would not improve on the original plumbers method; I understand that, but if the new one went in the same way i'd not complain... Am i wrong in assuming it will not separate at those joints?

I'm sure it worked in the parallel universe..

What are you actually attempting?
Surely what you really want is the tap replaced as easy as possible, to a decent standard and done in a way that would enable you or whoever is the next person to replace mixer next time?
Taps generally don’t last too long anymore, so that is why you need ideally compression connections and isolating valves.
The old copper tails are scrap copper, so cut them above the soldered connectors and remove the tap.
Then you can think of unsoldering each connector individually if you really want to, but I have no idea why you feel you need to do that.
Just cut pipes finally below the soldered connectors.
To try to unsolder the 2 fittings and pull the old tap up at same time is not a wise idea trust me.

 

[Harvest Fields]

I'm definitely not being bloody minded here and do not want to be disrespectful of anyone here, but, in my mind 'IF' the original assembly went in with the tap tails already fitted/screwed into the tap bloc and then the tap offered down through the sink top hole with the tails sliding into the two solder butt joints ,9" down from the top, surely with a little heat they would (after removing the threaded rod) both separate there too and let you pull the tap up out of those joints. That would not improve on the original plumbers method; I understand that, but if the new one went in the same way i'd not complain... Am i wrong in assuming it will not separate at those joints?

I'm sure it worked in the parallel universe..

No worries mate. If that is the way you would like to do it, then that is absolutely fine. I and others have instructed you on the best way to do it. If you would like to do it a different way then that is absolutely fine.

Thread now closed as we keep going around in circles