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macka09

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Gas Engineer
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Hi all.

What safety devices are regularly checked for operation on a combi boiler?
 
On an oil combi, away from the burner and oil supply, I always check expansion vessel charge and pressure relief valve activation. Even if it wont reseat and I have to fit a new one.
 
On an oil combi, away from the burner and oil supply, I always check expansion vessel charge and pressure relief valve activation. Even if it wont reseat and I have to fit a new one.

Do you test the new one?
 
are you talking gas related for a landlords cert? flame supervision?
 
Basically without discussing gas on open forum you would

Do checks in accordance with MI, TB12 and reg 26.9.

How you would do them im not saying.
 
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Manually.

With respect, how is that "testing"?. A proper test, if you are going to do it, IMO, is to make sure the valve opens at the required pressure. (Although I dont do oil, just gas). Personally, I don't - there is way too much chance of the valve not seating and causing a repair, or worse, a call back. I don't know about oil boiler PRV's but gas ones are generally make/model specific, reasonably expensive, and can be a real pain to change.
 
I never set off a prv. If it aint dribbling - its working as far as im concerned
 
What amazes me in this industry is that there's set regulations that we have to adhere to. As mentioned 26/9. Yet out of the very few replies to this question, there's already a debate about whether a specific test should be carried and how it should be done. Are the regs put in place as guidance and should we determine how to use them ? We all do things very differently.
 
With respect, how is that "testing"?. A proper test, if you are going to do it, IMO, is to make sure the valve opens at the required pressure. (Although I dont do oil, just gas). Personally, I don't - there is way too much chance of the valve not seating and causing a repair, or worse, a call back. I don't know about oil boiler PRV's but gas ones are generally make/model specific, reasonably expensive, and can be a real pain to change.

Manual is better than ignoring because you cant be ar$ed to fix it.

Its just making sure it lifts and has not been manufactured incorrectly or seized in place.

Oil ones are about ÂŁ6 and a piece of p to change.
 
Manual is better than ignoring because you cant be ar$ed to fix it.

Its just making sure it lifts and has not been manufactured incorrectly or seized in place.

Okay, fair enough.
But I thought you said you test them :yesnod:
 
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