require suitable fitting lead to plastic soil pipe

[weejobbie]

need to go from 3.5" lead soil pipe to 110mm plastic soil pipe

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Remove the lead back to the cast spigot then you can use a mcalpine dc1

 

[Deleted member 120897]

If you’re just trying to connect a wc pan, then you can get a 4” to 3.5” or 3” pan connector iirc.

 

[Timmy D]

Remove lead. I chop it back and burn it out the socket.

 

[Timmy D]

Few pics if anyone’s interested.

 

[kiwihair]

Few pics if anyone’s interested.View attachment 83100View attachment 83102View attachment 83103

I have my floors torn up and need to do something similar to what you have in these pics. What is that sleeve sticking out of the cast iron hub? Is that what is used to connect the lead pipe to the hub, with the lead soldered on?

I can't get a torch in the space, it's too tight and I'm nervous. Can I use a no hub coupling on that sleeve to connect to PVC?

 

[Timmy D]

I have my floors torn up and need to do something similar to what you have in these pics. What is that sleeve sticking out of the cast iron hub? Is that what is used to connect the lead pipe to the hub, with the lead soldered on?

I can't get a torch in the space, it's too tight and I'm nervous. Can I use a no hub coupling on that sleeve to connect to PVC?

Yes, the lead was connected to the “sleeve”.

I’m guessing from your “no hub” terminology, you’re in the states? I’m not sure on your local code/regs to confirm if you can.

You’ll likely find that the “sleeve” is smaller in diameter and when using a no hub, anything (toilet paper etc) travelling down the pipe will likely get caught on the lip.

Got any pics?

 

[kiwihair]

Yes, the lead was connected to the “sleeve”.

I’m guessing from your “no hub” terminology, you’re in the states? I’m not sure on your local code/regs to confirm if you can.

You’ll likely find that the “sleeve” is smaller in diameter and when using a no hub, anything (toilet paper etc) travelling down the pipe will likely get caught on the lip.

Got any pics?

Thanks for getting back to me!

Yes, I'm in upstate New York. The code here allows rubber fittings to transition materials. I can't post a link to them, but search 'Fernco no hub coupling'.

My intention is to take out the old lead pipe and reroute it with PVC. There are currently two other pipes coming into the toilet drain (shower and sink). The plan is to cut the lead pipes (green in pic below), connect a Wye fitting close to the cast iron hub (red arrow in pic below). The 'sleeve' I'm referring to looks to be the blue area in the pic.

The second pic shows the planned route of the PVC (yellow), through the floor joist).

Definitely feeling like I bit off more than I can chew - wasn't anticipating the joists to be in the way!

 

[Timmy D]

Thanks for getting back to me!

Yes, I'm in upstate New York. The code here allows rubber fittings to transition materials. I can't post a link to them, but search 'Fernco no hub coupling'.

My intention is to take out the old lead pipe and reroute it with PVC. There are currently two other pipes coming into the toilet drain (shower and sink). The plan is to cut the lead pipes (green in pic below), connect a Wye fitting close to the cast iron hub (red arrow in pic below). The 'sleeve' I'm referring to looks to be the blue area in the pic.

The second pic shows the planned route of the PVC (yellow), through the floor joist).

Definitely feeling like I bit off more than I can chew - wasn't anticipating the joists to be in the way!

View attachment 83875View attachment 83876

Your plan in current or similar form should work.

I am concerned about your plan to route it out of the wye and south through the joist.

What size through the joist? Holes can only be so large and must be a certain distance from the end. Check your code, but 4” for a toilet won’t go through that joist.

 

[kiwihair]

Your plan in current or similar form should work.

I am concerned about your plan to route it out of the wye and south through the joist.

What size through the joist? Holes can only be so large and must be a certain distance from the end. Check your code, but 4” for a toilet won’t go through that joist.

Agreed. I didn't think I'd be able to move the pipes due to the joists. They are true 2" X 6", so little more meat to them, but still not a lot. I came across these straps that are supposed to be able to patch up the joist after I drill the hole (see pic below). I can't link directly to it, but you can search "NOLAN STRUCTURAL PRODUCTS Joist Repair Kit - 24" Strap"

​

I am stepping down to 3" PVC - the hole would be about 4 1/8". I spoke with the engineer who designed the straps and he advised using two of them on the cut joist. What do you think?

My other question is about typing into the cast iron. The brass ferrule coming out of the cast iron hub looks to be about 4.25". Do you think I can use a coupler like Fernco 1056-43 to transition to 3" PVC? I would use a similar, but smaller coupler to connect to the smaller lead pipe at the top of the pic in my post above. Do you think the rubber would create a seal on the lead, or should I use a sealer (like silicone) on the joint between the rubber and the lead?

 

[Timmy D]

Agreed. I didn't think I'd be able to move the pipes due to the joists. They are true 2" X 6", so little more meat to them, but still not a lot. I came across these straps that are supposed to be able to patch up the joist after I drill the hole (see pic below). I can't link directly to it, but you can search "NOLAN STRUCTURAL PRODUCTS Joist Repair Kit - 24" Strap"

View attachment 83948​

I am stepping down to 3" PVC - the hole would be about 4 1/8". I spoke with the engineer who designed the straps and he advised using two of them on the cut joist. What do you think?

My other question is about typing into the cast iron. The brass ferrule coming out of the cast iron hub looks to be about 4.25". Do you think I can use a coupler like Fernco 1056-43 to transition to 3" PVC? I would use a similar, but smaller coupler to connect to the smaller lead pipe at the top of the pic in my post above. Do you think the rubber would create a seal on the lead, or should I use a sealer (like silicone) on the joint between the rubber and the lead?

I would cut the lead back to the brass ferrule (piece connecting lead pipe to the cast socket). Then using a torch, melt the lead off of the ferrule to provide a smooth, uniform surface for a no hub connection. You can get them as reducers. I burn the lead off before purchasing to confirm size.

I wouldn’t be comfortable using the strap but looking at the website, it says it designed for it. I’d rather have plate steel either side.

It says you need a minimum of 2” of joist remaining above the strap. That’s not comfortable for me, 3” I might feel ok.

4.25” hole, leaving 1.75”, no way. Recommending 2?!? Doesn’t sound legit. If you’re going 3” pipe, be accurate and make the hole 3.25”.