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Discuss Problem with air getting into a Y plan heating system in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

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mightyoakbob

Hi,

I'm new here and I would be grateful for some advice if you can spare the time.

I have a Y plan heating system which did not have a problem before a recent boiler replacement but now is constantly filling with air.

In the loft there are two header tanks one for the hot water and the other for the CH system. Below that, in the airing cupboard is the hot water cylinder and the 3 port motorized valve and manual air vents on the flow and return pipes.

The boiler is a floor below the the airing cupboard at ground level but it is not vertically under the airing cupboard but displaced to the back wall of the house and has about 12 feet of horizontal pipework under the bedroom floor to connect to it. There are four pipes that make this run; flow, return, expansion and cold fill from the header tank.

Before a well reputed corgi plumber fitted the new boiler, pump and magnaclean the system was fine except it used a lot of gas. Since the new boiler I have a problem with substantial amounts of air rushing around the rads etc. which have all been bled and I have to bleed the flow bleed point in the airing cupboard twice a week.

No changes were made to the system except in the cupboard that houses the boiler, the rest of the house is exactly as prior to the new boiler. Changes to pipe layout around the boiler include; maganaclean fitted in return pipe and then after the boiler although it has the same connections ie. expansion pipe the a few inches after, the cold fill pipe and then the pump the pipework is laid out differently.

Originally, the expansion pipe was completely vertical out of the boiler until it was under the bedroom floor now it is a horizontal connection to a vertical flow pipe out of the boiler.

Please correct this amateur if I'm wrong but I think there are 3 main possibilities to explain this;

1) Air is being sucked down the expansion pipe as the pumps starts to create a vacuum behind it at switch on. Perhaps the 15mm cold fill pipe cannot provide enough water quickly enough at switch on to fill the temporary vacuum and air rushes down the 22mm expansion pipe much easier.

2) There is a chemical reaction causing gases to be produced.

3) There is a poor joint somewhere which under low pressure from the pump allows air in.

I think number 1 is the most likely caused by what is obviously a much more powerful pump that was there before. Here's where I'm very unsure though, my instinct would be to fit a one way valve in the expansion pipe to prevent air coming down it. I think these are called check valves.

Is this a good idea? Can I try it, or is there some hidden danger? Do these valves have to be fitted below the water line so that they are in water and not air or could I fit it in the loft close to the header tank where it may sometimes be in air.

Am I miles away and the problem is something else entirely.

Your advice would be much appreciated.

Cheers,

Bob.
 
How high does the open vent rise over the header tank? On a modern condensing boiler the resistances through the boiler are a lot greater than older style boilers which can lead to pumping over and subsequent air entrapment.
 
Pump wronge way round.? Piped up wronge.? Post a photo.. Dont put check valve on vent
 
Easiest advice is to get the people back who installed it to put it right. It should have been checked for pumping over.
 
How high does the open vent rise over the header tank? On a modern condensing boiler the resistances through the boiler are a lot greater than older style boilers which can lead to pumping over and subsequent air entrapment.

Hi Mike,

Thanks for your help and the unexpected question.

I've just been up the loft and if I understand you question correctly.....

The expansion pipe just bends over the side of the header tank and at its highest point is 8.5 inches above the water level in the tank.

I take it that is not enough?

That being the case, can I not just fix this myself by cutting off the bent top and connecting a much higher loop?

I'm sorry to push my luck but could kindly explain what happens with the more restricted boiler flow to cause a problem and need a higher loop over? I just like to understand / visualize these things if I can.

Thank you so much for your time.


Cheers,

Bob.
 
Pump wronge way round.? Piped up wronge.? Post a photo.. Dont put check valve on vent

Hi, tipintim thanks for your time.

I'll try and do the photo thing as soon as I can, don't have a camera handy.

I'm sure whatever is wrong is subtle and even I would notice if the pump was the wrong way round. Thanks for the advise about the valve, I half expected such a comment which is why I asked before doing it.

Cheers,

Bob.
 
Easiest advice is to get the people back who installed it to put it right. It should have been checked for pumping over.

Hi Simon,

You're probably quite correct in what you say but I have had them back to service the boiler and they clearly didn't know what the casue of the problem was, after all, if it is this loop over, its not exactly expensive or hard to fix.

Can you point me at any reading about "pumping over" I would love to understand it.

Thanks again.

Cheers,

Bob.
 
The manufacturers instructions for the boiler will give the minimum height of the open vent above the header tank. It is normally a minimum of 450mm or about 18" although I have known pumping over issues with open vents at this height and had to run them even higher.

Water will take the easiest route and sometimes this can be up the open vent and and back into the open vent. Laziness on the part of some installers can make this problem worse when they don't bother to adjust the pump speed and just leave it on 3. Pumping over can occur all of the time when the pump is running but the most common is for a surge of water to be ejected when the pump shuts down. When the pump stops there is still momentum in the water running round the system and the stationary pump has now got a high resistance so the water surges up the open vent and cold feed. There is a lot less resistance in the cold feed so the water will travel further up it and out if it is not high enough.

An alternative to raising the open vent, if the manufacturers of the boiler allow it, is to alter the cold feed and open vent configuration to a combined one. This is a very useful option if there is not much headroom above the header tank.
 
An alternative to raising the open vent, if the manufacturers of the boiler allow it, is to alter the cold feed and open vent configuration to a combined one. This is a very useful option if there is not much headroom above the header tank.

Thanks for your reply. Oh dear, i may have made an idiot of myself.

When the new boiler was installed the plumber connected the cold fill pipe into the expansion pipe about a foot before it joined the system. i was unhappy with this but didn't argue at the time as I thought he was the expert and not me. Then I had this air problem which went on and on. The following year I said to the guy how about trying a conventional arrangement with the cold fill going in just after the expansion. He agreed to change it and did so. The problem continued.

But if as someone said it is due to water expanding when heated and the narrow surface area of the 22mm expansion pipe compared with the header tank then the level will still rise quite a bit in the pipe. My hopes are all on that now.

I'm thinking of making a much higher loop say 2feet but as I have no means of bending pipes I'll do it with a couple of elbows, hope that will be OK.

Thanks again

Cheers,

Bob.
 
There are two ways of combing the feed and vent. One is as you've described but the open vent still has to rise at least 450mm above the header tank. The other way is to lose the open vent completely and run 22mm straight from the header tank.

There's no reason why you shouldn't use elbows rather than bend the pipe in raising the open vent. The only advantage of using a bender in this instance is saving having to buy fittings.
 
Mike your post this morning couldn't be more helpful. I'm most grateful.

Hopefully, I'll be able to fit a higher loop next weekend. As i'm going to use compression fittings, I need to joint onto straight pipe, I just hope there is some straight pipe above the standing water level in the vent pipe. Don't want to drain down if I can help it.

Cheers,

Bob.
 
There are two ways of combing the feed and vent. One is as you've described but the open vent still has to rise at least 450mm above the header tank. The other way is to lose the open vent completely and run 22mm straight from the header tank.

There's no reason why you shouldn't use elbows rather than bend the pipe in raising the open vent. The only advantage of using a bender in this instance is saving having to buy fittings.

I have been trained to fit proximity fill/expansion on every vented system if there is a change on the system. This way there is zero chance for pumping over at all.

As the OP has mentioned some changes in the system recently I would go for the chemical option. Easy to find out by holding a light on the bleed valve. Just be very careful, do not do that on plastic bleed valves and do not get to close with your fingers as H2 burns somewhere in the region of 2000 degC and above. And of course remove combustible materials from the area first.

But the rise for the expansion should still be done independently.
 
I have been trained to fit proximity fill/expansion on every vented system if there is a change on the system.

Proximity fill/expansion ?

Could I ask you to explain that expression please.

Many thanks.

Cheers,

Bob.
 
Fill and expansion branch of the return within 4" distance preferably close to the boiler (heat source). This way there can not occur a major pressure differential between both and therefore no overpumping.
 
No, water should not be coming out of the open vent, as this adds oxygen to the water & increases corrosion, it is most likely due to the pump / pipework not being positioned correctly, although the modern boilers have such small water ways & therefore very high resistant's that this lead to this as well, especially when the system stops & starts. It sounds as though it is a circulation problem with such a big boiler it will need a high water flow rate to carry the heat way otherwise boiler reads the rise in temp & shuts down (21.5L/M). As long as you are sure that no muck has got into the new boiler I would be looking at the pipework around the pump / C/F & open vent position. What size pump & pipe work have you got between the boiler & pump position?

Read more: http://www.ukplumbersforums.co.uk/c...er-need-help-y-plan-system.html#ixzz29MCNUiGu
Bob please see similar post, problems arise because new boilers have a far greater resistant to water flow that your old one, one possible solution is to convert your open vented system into a sealed one but this needs to be done by a plumber as there are safety issues but most new installs will be done this way for that reason.
 
Hi Guys,

as advised I raised the overflow vent as high as possible which is more than 3 feet above the water level in the header tank. I did this on Saturday 20th of October. So far I've not seen any signs of less air in the system. There is a 2 foot length of 22mm pipe with a bleed point at the top, this pipe fills with air around 3 times a week, If i don't bleed it that often air starts gurgling round the radiators alarmingly.

I'll just say again nothing in the system was changed except the pump and boiler and the pipework around the boiler but the connections were the same.

I'm baffled, where is this damn air coming from?

Hope someone can help.

Cheers,

Bob.
 
your vent/feed pipe is not positioned correctly in relation to your pump why dont you seal the system
 
Just get someone in who knows what they are doing, I am amazed at the lack of understanding of OV systems, gravity systems etc......this is usually via "I only fit combi's brigade"
 
Yep I suppose Chris this is why a recommendation of a good heating engineer / plumber goes a long way!
 
why not swap your bleed point for a aav? ( automatic air vent ) ? then it will do it itself?
 
why not swap your bleed point for a aav? ( automatic air vent ) ? then it will do it itself?
Isn't that relieving the problem not solving it ? Sounds to me like the system is under negative pressure & just wants a few pipework changes to correct the problem (pump on the flow & after the open vent & cold feed, in that order) It would also be worthwhile checking things like rad valve stems etc for micro leaks which may be allowing the air in without the water coming out.

There maybe something to be said for a proper college education, don't you think.
 
sorry big man, im at college doing my 3rd year. just thought that would be a solution for now, i wont post again.
 
sorry big man, im at college doing my 3rd year. just thought that would be a solution for now, i wont post again.
No, No!!!!! I was not having a go at you !!!
Even if I thought differently from you, that should not stop you from contributing to the post. The O/P may choose to fit your suggestion while sorting out the cause, just so he doesn't have to keep going around bleeding the air out all the time.
The main thing is you are thinking & learning, don't stop doing that, even if you don't get it right every time, most people on here will not have a go at you for that.
 
2 heads is better than 1 and 10 heads on here is better than 1 and gets us all thinking
who ever says they know it all is lying
 
haha its jamie, i get called big man one day then wee man the next, not too sure, i go to falkirk college
 
haha its jamie, i get called big man one day then wee man the next, not too sure, i go to falkirk college

Poor soul, my last trainee went there too. Did not seem like he learned a lot there. :prrr:
 
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