outside tap questions

[Jennie]

Hi all,
I'm due to fit an outside tap for a customer. First time I've done it. I know all the theory, but have a few puzzlements...

1. I'm planning to sleeve the 15mm pipe, with 22mm copper pipe (or maybe plastic overflow pipe, which is cheaper). What do you recommend I seal the pipes in with - silicon? Plumbers caulk? Anything else?
2. I'll try to limit the amount of pipe running on the outside wall. There'll be at the minimum an elbow coming out of the wall, connecting into the tap (on a backplate elbow). When should I put insulation on outside pipe? Would an exposed elbow be OK? And maybe, say, an inch of vertical pipe? Or would you cut out an inch thick piece of insulation and wrap it round?
3. Do you prefer the elbow coming out of the wall to run up or down to the tap?
4. Do you drill with a slight run through the wall? Doesn't this comprimise the joints, which should all be 90 degrees?
5. Do you all fit drain valves on the inside wall? I've read it is good practise. However, I've yet to see a tap with one fitted. I presume it would sit on the vertical pipe run indoors, above the iso valve and DC valve?
6. Is there a recommended ideal height for the outside tap? Or do you just plonk it on where it looks good?

Thanks everyone for your advice. (Can't believe an outdoor tap could generate so many questions).

Jennie

 

[village idiot]

I'm sure you will get it sorted Jennie.

I have been aving a drinks, so not able to cope wiv all the qwessions asked.
Yes, the pipe should be insulated
Yes a drain valve is neede even though you haven't seen one. Do what you consider right, not what others do.
Use silicone to seal it
use plastic pipe to sleeve

hhhhmmmmm, what woz the other qwessions? I have to cut down on this drinking

 

[Ch4 plumbing]

Elbow above tap and isolating valve and non return valve inside property.

 

[snowhead]

Hose Union Back Plate ½" | NoLinkingToThis

 

[Alex Knight]

Hose Union Back Plate ½" | NoLinkingToThis

Use one like this, so much easier I think.
Can be extended if needed by soldering another piece of 15 on the end and no pipe work to lag outside just stick an isolation valve and drain off inside. Sorted

 

[PlumbBobBob]

Use one like this, so much easier I think.
Can be extended if needed by soldering another piece of 15 on the end and no pipe work to lag outside just stick an isolation valve and drain off inside. Sorted

and a check valve of course. don't fit a tap with one integral as it will fail when it freezes.

 

[Best]

If you fit one of those ^^ backplates as above, you will have to be careful drilling the screw holes as they are so close to the centre pipe hole & bricks can split. Just a drop of silicone at most will seal that backplate. All that metal will be prone to freezing, so still needs insulated sadly & an isolating valve indoors.
Frankly, a brass solder female straight with half of it into the 20mm hole in wall & sealed with tec7 is as good a job I think, but the flange as above has the advantage of being screwed solid.

 

[Jennie]

Hiya. I was looking at the hose union backplates. Someone else mentioned that drilling screw holes could be tricky. Surely the pipe should be sleeved? I'm a bit worried the larger hole (22mm) would eat into the screw area. What do you reckon?

 

[Best]

Hiya. I was looking at the hose union backplates. Someone else mentioned that drilling screw holes could be tricky. Surely the pipe should be sleeved? I'm a bit worried the larger hole (22mm) would eat into the screw area. What do you reckon?

Don't think you need too large a hole for the flange/pipe part Jennie, unless you are sleeving the copper with a piece of round conduit or similar. The holes for the screws will always be a risk of breaking or splitting the brick walls. Mark the holes very carefully & drill them with a standard electric drill if possible & using sharp masonry bit. Try on rotary only as the hammer action can split the brick. SDS elecric drills can be too visious, but if you do use one then use sharp SDS bits & try it also on rotary only.

 

[Jennie]

Hiya. I was thinking of sleeving the pipe - with 22mm copper, or maybe a bit of plastic overflow pipe.

 

[Killy Bing]

In the event it goes wrong and it blows out, grip fill behind the back plate. Pull inside tight, plumb it in and then screw into the gripfill

 

[Jennie]

PS. What do you reckon on sealing with Plumbers Gold? I've already got some in my tool box.

 

[Best]

Plumbers Gold or any decent one of the new strong sealants will be perfect & quick. Tec 7 is very good but loads of similar stuff out there & some are cheaper.

 

[Gray0689]

Don't think you need too large a hole for the flange/pipe part Jennie, unless you are sleeving the copper with a piece of round conduit or similar. The holes for the screws will always be a risk of breaking or splitting the brick walls. Mark the holes very carefully & drill them with a standard electric drill if possible & using sharp masonry bit. Try on rotary only as the hammer action can split the brick. SDS elecric drills can be too visious, but if you do use one then use sharp SDS bits & try it also on rotary only.

Or mark a template on card or something
Then mark screw holes first and drill before you drill larger hole for pipe

 

[Jennie]

Such as this stuff?... EvoStik GRIPFILL Gripfill Gap Filling Adhesive 350ml: Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools
Wow, it looks really handy.

 

[Killy Bing]

If you sleeve it seal the inside only, better to have water run on the outside wall than to the inside

 

[Jennie]

That's such a good idea. Seems so obvious - not that I'd thought of it.

 

[Best]

Or mark a template on card or something
Then mark screw holes first and drill before you drill larger hole for pipe

...that makes a lot of sense!
Always hard to drill some walls though! - just have to hit a strong bit or a weak bit & drill pulls to the side! I personally mark the holes & then for accuracy I put a vertical & horizontal line through the hole with a pencil so that once I start drilling I can still see where the centre of hole should be.

 

[Killy Bing]

I personally drill a 10mm pilot from inside
core from the outside with a 22mm diamond core.
measure and cut 22mm and hammer that in
mark up and drill

with the tight 22mm fit then the brick doesn't crack and blow into the drilled hole

 

[helpsy]

Hi Jennie
I use a hose backplate union and have a 24mmx1000mm drill bit from toolstation, then use overflow for sleeving sealed only inside, fit iso and dcv inside and standard tap.
I believe you have to fit a seperate dcv inside if a new install, but you can use one built into the tap if existing is like this, but if practicable has to be fitted inside(dcv). Wind your PTFE tape around the tap and then make a washer tight to the stop with PTFE so that you can stop the tap in the upright position and it's tight.
if drilling as I do you'll need to be areful as the 3 fixing holes are close.
Good Luck

 

[Best]

Wish those flanges were made with a bigger diameter so the screw holes were further out! :smile:
And why they use 3 holes, when 2 would be more than enough? - flange when screwed tight to the wall with 2 screws cannot move any direction!

 

[and1e]

Definately use the hose union backplate, then its only the tap that is exposed, I`ve not used anything else for years, add a service valve inside and tell the customer to isolate and open tap when not in use.

 

[helpsy]

You could also buy one of those bulky insulated tap covers!