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Discuss New Gledhill Stainless Lite Indirect Unvented alarming popping noises. in the USA area at PlumbersForums.net

The inlet assembly is correct and the system is balanced without repiping the whole house, move on Jon neither of these would cause the popping noise
 
Also, if the expansion vessel is piped from the combination inlet group, ensure that it is NOT piped from upstream of the non return valve as shown (in the official Glendhill guide) but is piped downstream of the NRV, there may be a tapping for this from the ERV.

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Hi samba1,

Did you ever resolve your issue, I have exactly the same symptoms and what sounds like an identical install
Hi samba1,

Did you ever resolve your issue, I have exactly the same symptoms and what sounds like an identical install.
Hi, yes sadly it was a case of swapping the cylinder. Replaced with a Joule and no issues at all now. My Gledhill cylinder had a new serial number sticker over a previous one, to me that suggests it was either reworked in the factory or a returned unit.

The date code was for November and the two numbers were 3-4 weeks apart. The whole situation was suspicious to me. There may be a perfectly good explanation for it but I struggle to see any other.

Check if you have any deformation on the outer skin to indicate any impact to the unit in transit. The other area of suspicion is the combination valve. Could just be a faulty batch. Mine was supplied with the cylinder and was made by Reliance Water Controls. The new Joule cylinder came with Caleffi combination valve.

if you still have the option to swap out I would try to entertain that idea. I understand that it’s not always a pragmatic option.
 
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Hi samba1,

Did you ever resolve your issue, I have exactly the same symptoms and what sounds like an identical install.
Have a look at this thread, I think the answer is now becoming clearer…

 
Hi, yes sadly it was a case of swapping the cylinder. Replaced with a Joule and no issues at all now. My Gledhill cylinder had a new serial number sticker over a previous one, to me that suggests it was either reworked in the factory or a returned unit.

The date code was for November and the two numbers were 3-4 weeks apart. The whole situation was suspicious to me. There may be a perfectly good explanation for it but I struggle to see any other.

Check if you have any deformation on the outer skin to indicate any impact to the unit in transit. The other area of suspicion is the combination valve. Could just be a faulty batch. Mine was supplied with the cylinder and was made by Reliance Water Controls. The new Joule cylinder came with Caleffi combination valve.

if you still have the option to swap out I would try to entertain that idea. I understand that it’s not always a pragmatic option.
Thats not good news at all, ours is an early 2021 date of manufacture.

We are also using the RWC combination valve that was supplied with the cylinder. Which Joule unit did you go for? I don't think we could return at this point which is a real shame.
 
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Thats not good news at all, ours is a May 2021 date of manufacture.

We are also using the RWC combination valve that was supplied with the cylinder. Which Joule unit did you go for? I don't think we could return at this point which is a real shame.
Would you mind posting a photo of the RWC combination valve installation and also where the expansion vessel is teed into it or teed into the system.
 
Thats not good news at all, ours is an early 2021 date of manufacture.

We are also using the RWC combination valve that was supplied with the cylinder. Which Joule unit did you go for? I don't think we could return at this point which is a real shame.
Hi,

The one I went for is: Joule Cyclone TCEMVI-0200LFC. I spoke to Joule technical who said that model range has 1mm steel compared to others which only have 0.5mm
 
Just wondering if all those Glendhill cylinders, even the ones with the proper insulation curing time, are behaving like this/these ones where the EV is tapped off the PRV and right at the inbuilt check valve. If the EV pre charge pressure is incorrectly set and not at least 0.2bar < than the PRV pressure it may be enough to upset these paper thin cylinders.
 
I believe ours was originally set to 3.0 as per the manual & sticker on the tank but later dropped to 2.8 which reading above is also Gledhill advice.

Shame because it’s a good looking tank, buts it’s way to noisy to live with.
 
So, the PRV is set, non adjustable, to 3.0bar and the EV pre pressure is 2.8bar?. I'd love to see a pressure gauge somewhere on these cylinders to see what exactly is going on.
 
Hi TGF - apologies for reviving the thread - been looking on the forums and am active in a couple of related posts - did you sort out your issues? My set up sounds very similar indeed to yours - mains supplied the cold for taps/shower, PRV under sink to limit to 3bar, combination bloc has balanced cold not used. The cylinder is fed its water from a supply pipe from the mains which goes through the combination bloc and then into the cylinder. Do you have mixer showers/taps/monoblocs etc as most people probably do (with cold off mains directly and hot from cylinder)?

The manufacture date of my cylinder is January 2021. I have had BG/Dyno out a few times but with little success and the cylinder bangs (not always) when heating up - it appears to be worse when hot water is drawn down a bit. I have contacted Gledhill to see what is going on. Depending on what happens I may have to call BG out again. Regardless of when it was fitted, it was them who did so and I do have the Homecare cover so hopefully I can get this resolved somehow..
 
I ran out of patience and replaced the tank with one recommended on the other thread to be honest. Your symptoms sound exactly the same, ours got worse and worse it was cracking and popping and banging on heat up and when water was drawn down. Ours was only 4 months old.
 
Thanks for coming back. Gledhill seem to be aware of the problem. The proposed fix is to rivet the seam on the outer casing which is contracting and expanding. If this doesn't fix then the cylinder will likely need replaced. Another person with a similar issue suggested the fix worked. I am waiting to see what happens and will chase along but will give this a go and see what happens especially as BG don't seem willing to replace just now and I would rather not buy a new cylinder myself.
 
Not got a pic but it's the opposite side to the main branding and logo. They have assured the cylinder is safe etc which is good but clearly the manufacturing process on a few wasn't great. Hopefully when it's done it wil solve the issue which is the same as others on cool down and the subsequent heat up.
 

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