New Central heating advice

[lackingwedge]

No Happyflyer.
Only completed on the purchase a couple of weeks ago due to the usual house buying crap that comes up and tests one's patience.

I have a few people coming in to quote me over the next week including someone from this parish.
Still not sure exactly what kind of system i will be putting in but the advice here is invaluable for Ideas which I can get quoted on and help me make an informed choice.

 

[Worcester]

Wolverhampton isn't too far from us If you ask..

 

[lackingwedge]

Ok, I have been thinking about renewables and done some reading up on it.
Can someone confirm whether my thinking on this is right or put me right where i have misunderstood?

Firstly I would have to follow the insulation recommendations on the green deal assessment thingmy done by an improved assessor?

I was already planning on doing the following [FONT=verdana, geneva, lucida, lucida grande, arial, helvetica, sans-serif]Insulation:[/FONT]
[FONT=verdana, geneva, lucida, lucida grande, arial, helvetica, sans-serif] Internal solid wall to all external walls, loft insulation, insulation in between floors, insulation on concrete floors,secondary glazing I live in conservation area so doubt i will be allowed to swap any single pane to Double Glazing at a reasonable cost.
[/FONT]
[FONT=verdana, geneva, lucida, lucida grande, arial, helvetica, sans-serif]Is this something worth persueing with the grant system. I plan to get my builder to quote me on the insulation and compare to Green deal registered offer. If my builder can do for a much cheaper price, will that invalidate the RHI if I plan for a renewable energy systems like Air\Ground source, Solar Water?
[/FONT]According to this site here.
https://www.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/294533/Cashback.pdf
I can get a grenat to cover the cost of some or all of my proposed insulation work?

Secondly: Underfloor heating with Air source heat pump. I know this will be a premium cost upfront over standard boiler\unvented cylinder with RADS and zone valves but with the lower running costs and RHI cashback, it should pay for itself within a few years?

To, qualify, it just needs to be installed and commission by an MCS registered installer, I fill out a form and a cheque comes in through the post every quarter as long as I implement the energy saving recommendation is my green deal assessment (insulation, secondary glazing etc...)?

Looking at the EPCs for my property:

https://www.epcregister.com/direct/report/8606-8026-6729-8196-2173
https://www.epcregister.com/direct/report/9728-1019-7251-1137-7940
https://www.epcregister.com/direct/report/8277-7727-0870-6544-0906
https://www.epcregister.com/direct/report/0353-2882-6114-9097-0685

my combined heat demand will be 41677!!

Looking on the government RHI website here (page 28)
https://www.ofgem.gov.uk/ofgem-publications/87121/essentialguideforapplicantsweb.pdf
would suggest that my RHI payments would be around £1900 per year.

Are my calculations right?


I am bleeding confused already.

 

[happyflyer]

Look just get a man to get a few rads and a boiler your digging a deep hole for yourself, who gives a toss about all this tosh, you just need a bit of heat in winter
as long as you are not heating all of Wolverhampton, it don't matter. were up to 53 post and not a brew made, a rad on a wall, and the first mortgage payment made, its not good enough this, we never had all this tosh when I was a lad, its gone regulation mad, and I will bet you will never get an inspector near your place. Get down B&Q lots of goodies there.
BTW don't forget to get a GSR to fit it all..

 

[happyflyer]

BTW does Lackinawedge mean you are a bit on the short of cash ????

 

[lackingwedge]

Thanks Happy flyer.
I don't have any system at all in my house and just looking at all options so that I can make an informed choice.
I am moving from a modern 1980's house with Cavity wall insulation, loft insulation and full double glazing to a victorian property about 3 times the size with solid wall insulation, leaving windows and has seen little maintenance over the last 25 years.

I grew up in a similar sized property and can remember how draughty and the nocicable temperature drop the further away from the Rads you moved. Not to mention the amount of 50p's the Gas meter would consume if you turned on the central heating. God knows how much that house would cost to heat now.

 

[lackingwedge]

Lackingwedge means I wish to renovate my house with a restrictive budget.
However, if convinced, i am prepared to make the capital outlay if I can get RHI\insulation cashback from the government and lower utility bills.

If I was a mind to go down to B&Q, fill my trolly with copper, a dozen rads, a boiler and a tank, I would not bother with this site.
However, if that is the expert opinion of the expert heating engineers here, then that's what I would do.

 

[Ermintrude]

I have seen lots and lots of the solid wall insulation jobs at a standstill due to running out of money.

By all means apply for green steal. But don't pay upfront for anything as they will just take you for a ride.

I have a three story Victorian house, I bought seconds of celotex from eBay. I bought 2 lorry loads at £1000 a pop. Something like a million sheets of 100mm.

I dry lined whole house with a ventilated gap behind insulation of 50mm. All foil walls , 99% air tight as all the studs and foil sheets were covered with foil tape.

Celotex in ceilings again 100% vapour barrier and the ground floor I removed the concrete and excavated 350mm and then built a suspended timber floor with 100mm celotex between them and then out wet ufh on top of it.

My loft has a lot of insulation too. It's a warm roof.


I don't think your builder or the green deal will take as much care with insulation.


Your heating system?


Defo ufh ground and bathrooms

Rads on zones above ff.


Unvented.


Don't think ashp is what u really need when on a budget. Solar thermal for your DHW.

Use a decent unvented ACV SL or similar. Pipe your house so that a everything comes back to a "low Loss headder"

Have two spare ports so that an alternative heat unit can be added into system at a later date but for now just hook up a gas boiler / if you can't afford the whole Hogg

Oversize your rads by the same amount say factor of 2 .

I would make the system as versatile as possible .

Get Worcester round to have a look he's the main man

 

[happyflyer]

Ermi,

This is going to cost him more than the hoose, think he needs the chap from Grand Design, MC.Cloud they always run out of money in the end, he will be lackin-a-wedge then, come on here for advice and go bankrupt, does he know what he has taken on I wonder, maybe he would have been better down at B&Q like I said, met the chap in the isles at B&Q and get his advice there. Anyway whatever he does its photos before and after we need. No one ever comes back on here and thanks us, sometimes I don't know why we bother.

The Worcester man is a good idea, oversize rads yes, I could commission witness his dual fuel rotary cup burner on the Babbcock & Willcocks boiler in the back yard.

Good luck to him hope he sorts it.

 

[lackingwedge]

I forgot to mention, I am planning to get thick carpet and underlay in most bedrooms. Does this preclude UFH as i know that the maximum tog of a carpet and underlay should not exceed 2.1 tog. The underlay i am looking at it 2Tog on its own (cloud 9).