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Discuss iron pipe in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

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R

REDSAW

hmm!,
need to convert this rad to accept copper and change rad to a towel rad.
it is 3/4'' m.i pipe and not much before it disappears into the wall.

it is on district heating.
tbh, not done much iron stuff and last i can remember was 30 years ago, and i cant remember that either.lol.

whats the best idea, unscrew elbow and put in a brass comp coupler or is there a better way?.:bucktooth: Photo-0001 (2).jpgPhoto-0002 (2).jpgPhoto-0003 (2).jpg
 
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Very close.

Use a M or F iron. You may not need to remove elbow if it is buried
in the wall. You can see what you need, you are the judge.
 
lol,
just realized, 2 f/couplers, take off valves add a bit of copper and connect 2 new valves!!!.
what about a neater way?.
 
Unscrew the tails from the elbow and use male irons. Looks like 1/2"
 
Didn't see the pictures last night!!

Don't try to unscrew the elbows unless you are 100% sure you
can hold against on the pipe that disappears in the wall.

M Irons will make a neat enough job.
 
Out of interest what would you guys use on the thread? Hemp/paste, loctite, PTFE?
 
I ask because nobody ever seems to suggest PTFE and yet that's what you'd use on an outside tap thread to thread. Is it just the temperature that makes it unsuitable?
 
i use ptfe on heating systems. I think it is able to withstand temps above 200c
 
PTFE because it is quicker cleaner and easier. No harder to seal than a rad valve tail.
 
I'd use loctite 577 or loctite 55. I'm not a great fan of ptfe any more as the price seems to keep going up.
 
So was it 1/2" REDSAW? I'd agree with Tamz, it certainly looks like it :)

Regards thread, I gained confidence with loctite55 using it on 2" Iron! Mind you I double wrapped with PTFE just to fill the gaps :)
 
Loctite 55 is my preferred. Nothing wrong with PTFE, still makes a good joint.

One or the other alone. No need for paste on either.
 
diamondgas said:
So was it 1/2" REDSAW? I'd agree with Tamz, it certainly looks like it :)

Regards thread, I gained confidence with loctite55 using it on 2" Iron! Mind you I double wrapped with PTFE just to fill the gaps :)
Click to expand...
bluddy wireless router!!

its 3/4'' or i have bought the wrong fittings lol.
going to the job tuesday and intend using ptfe with some paste! or some 55 and paste!!
 
didn't know the did 3/4" rad valves. but then again what i don't know could fill a library.
 
pfte on barrel pipework? hmm wouldnt recommend it if your going to use it on the barrel threads . i would strip the barrel pipe and 2 copper to irons done. and i would use loctite 55 have fun. and make sure you know how to isolate it mate, get alot of plumbers doing work on district and have problems, then have to fix it. had a plumber go to hospital about a month ago when he cut into a live pipe on district 80 degree water burning your hands not nice..
 
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know what u mean! hate going to these jobs but fortunately customer is draining off and re-filling....

today i just knocked of rad for the tiler to chuck up.
 
yep - better be careful as those pipes could be seized up tighter than an Eskimos bum!!!!

support the elbow properly before attacking pipework with a nice 14" Stilton!

tell you what i have one of these and they are real good . . . . .

Irwin Record Quick Wrench 12in | NoLinkingToThis
 
Never use PTFE on Iron threads. Not as reliable as hemp and paste. I have seen many iron joints with PTFE start weeping.
 
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