Discuss Help! Advice for replacing blown immersion heater/thermostat? in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

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Marco

Hi, Hope someone can help please as this is my first immersion job!

I was caled to a relatives house who wants to use immersion heater only for heating water in summer (located in bedroom). However water was overheating and now immersion has now 'blown'. No massive emergancy as they are happy to use bolier to heat water for now.

On arrival I stripped took off the immersion heater cover, but the cables were burnt out to the thermostat and the insulation on the (1.5mm?) 3 core cable and to supplimentary bonding earth looked pretty heat damaged as well. I've replaced the thermostat and cable, initially to see if it is only that what was damaged, but have not made the final connection as I was a bit worried abou the old surrounding electrics etc.

Here's the first question: I asked a the plumbers merchants for heat resistent 2.5mm 3 core cable, but he reakoned 1.5mm heat resistant is ok, which I've fitted for now - but not connected to switch! Is he right, or should I be replacing with 2.5mm heat resistant?

Secondly, all the books say to use a fused double pole 20amp isolating switch near the tank. Currently there is an old unfused switch near the tank (although in decent condition) used to switch the immersion on and off, there is another fused switch downstairs (fuse currently removed!). As this is a replacement of a broken item, is it ok to wire into the old switch next to the tank? Even if so, presumably it would be better to replace this, but relative is keen to keep price down!?

Finally, I was going to replace the whole immersion at first, however, it is pretty well corroded in at the top, and despite soaking with WD40, it doesn't want to move! I've not given it to much welly as I hear it is very easy to buckle the copper tanks! Hence trying to replace only the thermostat for now. Has anyone got any top tips to remove the immersion element safely please?

Any help gratefully received!
 
Job done! Thanks for all the tips. In the end it was just the thermostat (and I was able to confirm this using Alanka's resistance tip before final connection which was useful).

In the end replaced with 2.5mm heat resistant cable, cleaned up immersion terminals, 20 amp double pole switch and new thermostat set at 50 degrees. Took a lot longer than planned, but I, (and the out-laws more importantly!) were happy with the job! Charged for 3 hours at family discounted rate (!) including time to pick up parts, which I think was fair?
 
I do not think that you should be attempting to work on electrics , first not to have any means of testing the element, then to not automatically replace the complete heater when the terminations have almost certainly been burnt, if they have been overheated they not last long anyway. you should get training first.
 
Another way of removing a really stuck immersion heater is to stitch drill a triangular segment of the body and get some adjustable grips and squeeze the body in tight.....it works a treat believe me!
 
I do not think that you should be attempting to work on electrics , first not to have any means of testing the element, then to not automatically replace the complete heater when the terminations have almost certainly been burnt, if they have been overheated they not last long anyway. you should get training first.

Thread from 2009!

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