Discuss Boiler keeps on boiling water even heating is switched off in the Central Heating Forum area at PlumbersForums.net

The valves typically have no resistance when open. Did you check with the power off?

If you did then I would suggest thats the culprit
So I turned off from the circuit box, and two remain motorised when I move the lever, one remains loose

Here are photos of the system btw, the greens show MV are at auto position, with resistance, push to manual/ON and feel and hear motor springs it back to auto.

Red shows the suspicious one where lever is loose.
 

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Tracing the wiring back to the valve, it might be easy enough to do by eye, if not remove all oranges, and test, with the power off, for continuity (buzzer) between the orange at wiring center and the orange at failed valve, then reconnect the 2 working orange wires.
 
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The valve cable is relatively short, I would trace back from the suspect faulty valve to the wiring centre then just remove this orange wire and test for 230V, orange to N or orange to earth with power on but programmer off.
 
I have removed the housing, but I am not too sure how to remove the orange wire from the MV end.

I tested continuity between orange and yellow/green(earth) from the wiring centre without remove any one of the wire, no beep.

I can see the spring operation when I move the lever of the good MV (circled green), and the suspected one, no spring action.

I really feel like swapping the motor between these two and see whether fault is carried.
 

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I have removed the housing, but I am not too sure how to remove the orange wire from the MV end.

I tested continuity between orange and yellow/green(earth) from the wiring centre without remove any one of the wire, no beep.
Who said to do any of the above? I said remove oranges at wiring center (wc) and test between orange at wiring center and orange at MV - no need to disconnect the orange wire at MV.

John said test between orange and earth at wc.
 
You're not testing for continuity between orange and earth at the wiring center, you're looking for 230v.

Set the multi meter to the V~ symbol with the next highest number above 200. (if applicable for your multimeter)

You don't want to remove the orange from the valve just the wiring center.

I'm not sure that moving the head to a different body is worth doing as it won't solve your problem. You can take the head off the one that's "broken" and using a spanner try and rotate the shaft on the valve, if it rotates freely its just the motor that's knackered if its stiff then the whole valve needs changing
 

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