OK then that's your problem then, just confirm that the CH and HW are both off??Yes yes yes, you are right, if I touch it, then power is back on!!!
Discuss Boiler keeps on boiling water even heating is switched off in the Central Heating Forum area at PlumbersForums.net
OK then that's your problem then, just confirm that the CH and HW are both off??Yes yes yes, you are right, if I touch it, then power is back on!!!
No, but if you are referring to my power issue earlier, I have power only when I reconnect the orange wire back to systemDid you put any demands on?
What?? It itself is a problem???OK then that's your problem then, just confirm that the CH and HW are both off??
Sorry, I did that, so i did measure 240V between the removed orange and the earth/neutral, while the connected orange in the box are reading 0V.Yes, that is the problem, IE your M.valve is still sending a signal to the boiler/pump to run even though he M valve isn't getting a demand to open from the relevant system so needs renewing, more than likely just the actuator which doesn't involve draining down the system.
Why didnt you probe between the removed orange wire and earth with power on but both CH & HW off, it should have read 230V.
I get it now!!!!!Have never replaced the motor only.
"Still trying to understand how my system is not powered up without having it to reconnect back."
If you mean boiler/pump not running then its because there is no demand because you had removed the orange wire from the faulty M.valve, if you leave it disconnected and create a CH or HW demand then the boiler/pump will start up, is it a CH or HW M.valve thats faulty?.
Yes, it’s not the motor at fault, it’s a microswitch.so I have swapped the synchron motor from a good one to the faulty one, it does not seem to help with the voltage, it still registers 240V.
So I need to replace the whole M. Valves?
which/where is this microswitch please? can it be replaced on its own?Yes, it’s not the motor at fault, it’s a microswitch.
The whole actuator, at least, , as its the spring return thats probably causing the problem or the end switch sticking on, remove the actuator from the valve and switch the zone valve on off with the actuator removed and see if 230v still present when switched off, also open/close the zone valve with a adjustable spanner or such on the valve spindle, it should move relatively very easily.
It’s where the orange wire connects, but probably best to renew the actuator (valve head), some have replaced them, but I wouldn’t know how as I’ve never done it.which/where is this microswitch please? can it be replaced on its own?
Would like to try, but did a search on youtube, couldn't find any tutorial of how to, basically i have no idea what the structure is.
You know any good youtube video i can follow please?
Spoilsport!You won’t get the head off as there’s not enough space to lift it out need to rotate the valve so the head sticks out front time for a plumber I would say
But I asked for hot water as well, shouldnt I see it fires for a second at least?Are thermostat’s up? Could be already satisfied.
Not if the cylinder is already satisfied, and you have it set low at 45 degrees.But I asked for hot water as well, shouldnt I see it fires for a second at least?
And the start up sequence doesn't seem to do anything.
Reply to Boiler keeps on boiling water even heating is switched off in the Central Heating Forum area at PlumbersForums.net
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