WC cistern slow fill armitage shanks hushflow

[Ulsinus]

My WC close coupled cistern fills very, very, slowly. It’s not always been like that.

I’m not aware that the water pressure has changed.

The water inlet valve is a bottom entry one and was manufactured by Armitage Shanks.(The name is cast into the valve body and can be read with the aid of a magnifying glass

From web research it is the ’old’ version. It uses a 32mm diaphragm washer to control the water inlet and you access this by unscrewing the top. (I understand the ‘new’ version uses a bayonet type fitting.)

I’ve taken the valve apart and cleaned the filter. (It wasn’t dirty so it has made no difference to the flow.)

I’ve read in very general terms that water inlet valves can be fitted with water restrictors though have not found any information that relates specifically to the type of Armitage Shanks valve that I have.

My questions are:

1) Where would a water restrictor be fitted in this particular make of valve?

2) What other reasons could there be for the reduction in flow over time?

3) What can I do to increase the water flow into the cistern?

The help and guidance of the forum members will be gratefully received.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

depending on age its best to replace the fill valve we recommend the fluid master pro (brass tail) (part no PRO45B)

 

[Best]

Usually if that valve worked okay as you say previously, then it is the diaphragm washer. The washer is flat when new, but with use and age the centre of the washer pushes out towards the "nozzle" part, blocking the flow and remains in that shape. New washer cures it.
But as Shaun said, go with the exact valve he mentions, because your valve is old and can be fragile with risk of cracking. Also can be a noisy valve especially if on mains pressure.

 

[Ulsinus]

...replace fill valve ... with ... fluid master pro (brass tail) (part no PRO45B)

Thank you for your advice and reccomendation

 

[Ulsinus]

Thank for your suggestion regarding replacing the diaphragm. Valve in good condition so will try this first. again thank you.

 

[Best]

Thank for your suggestion regarding replacing the diaphragm. Valve in good condition so will try this first. again thank you.

And if you do replace the diaphragm washer you will probably have to adjust the wee plastic bolt that the valve arm pushes in the pin. You need to do this usually because the final water level might be wrong due to new washer letting valve fill for longer until shut off

 

[Ulsinus]

And if you do replace the diaphragm washer you will probably have to adjust the wee plastic bolt that the valve arm pushes in the pin.....

Best,

Thanks for your continuing interest. Much valued.

However, the valve I have doesn't have such an adjustment. So we're probably talking about a different valves.

 

[Ulsinus]

I replaced the diaphragm and this solved the problem. £2.49 well spent.
The original diaphragm was over 12 years old.
The old diaphragm was badly deformed and had lost its elasticity. Indeed when I tried to push it back into to shape after I had removed it it broke up.


Many thanks for the advice and guidance of the forum.

 

[rpm]

Thanks for coming back and telling us a good news story.

 

[Best]

Yes, thank you for coming back and letting us know and great it was a simple fix.
Glad that, although I had thought it was a different valve, by advice about the diaphragm washer turned out to be correct. :smile: