Discuss triton t80z had for 2.5 years now no hot water, low pressure light comes on when turn on in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

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Hi, just a homeowner who can decorate but that's about it. Have read a few forums about the triton t80z 9.5kw cold feed only and have ordered a new one as 5 of us use the shower every day so recon the heating filament might be knackered. I live in a hard water area. cold water in bathroom taps and kitchen seem as normal with regard to pressure. the low pressure light is off but as soon as I turn shower on the low pressure light comes on and just cold water comes out...daughter then tells me it started sputtering hot and cold the night before when she used it (thanks for telling me lol ) so sorry for war and peace but my question is this, if it is low pressure feeding the shower unit then wouldn't the low pressure light be on all the time does anyone know please ? e.g low pressure light wouldn't just come on when powering on ? Thanks if anyone can help/knows and sorry if similar been posted ;-)
 
The low pressure light will or should illuminate if you have low pressure or if the heating can is "full" of lime or if there is a restriction in the shower head due to limescale or if the hose is kinked. I would first remove the hose + showerhead and run the shower and see if the light illuminates, if it does, put the power selector switch to position 1 or 1/2 power or however its described and keep turning the temperature control knob clockwise towards its hottest position and observe the light, and see if it goes out.
You can also do a bucket test re flow, turn the temperature control to its coldest setting and then measure the amount captured in the bucket over say a 1 min period and you can calculate the flowrate, it should not be < 6 to 8 LPM.

Also, if the shower low pressure light is wired up internally like my Mira Sport then even with a perfectly good operating shower the light will illuminate very briefly for a second or two when the start button is pressed. If the TCO (thermal cut out) has operated or has failed then this light will not illuminate even briefly.
 
Blimey thats 45,000 litres of water maybe more all heated up from cold ....45 ton of water
The Uk Cruelty to Triton Showers Association have been informed ..expect a visit by an inspector. Just bang another on and send Triton a msg. they might give you a new one FOC
on this performance as its a great advert esp.in a limescale area ...
Rob Foster aka centralheatking
God knows how many Kw you have gobbled up and at what cost
ahhhh maybe someone else on UKPF can hazzard a guess, maybe later ..its Friday and M6 is beckoning uck
 
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I would say time for a new unit
 
The low pressure light will or should illuminate if you have low pressure or if the heating can is "full" of lime or if there is a restriction in the shower head due to limescale or if the hose is kinked. I would first remove the hose + showerhead and run the shower and see if the light illuminates, if it does, put the power selector switch to position 1 or 1/2 power or however its described and keep turning the temperature control knob clockwise towards its hottest position and observe the light, and see if it goes out.
You can also do a bucket test re flow, turn the temperature control to its coldest setting and then measure the amount captured in the bucket over say a 1 min period and you can calculate the flowrate, it should not be < 6 to 8 LPM.

Also, if the shower low pressure light is wired up internally like my Mira Sport then even with a perfectly good operating shower the light will illuminate very briefly for a second or two when the start button is pressed. If the TCO (thermal cut out) has operated or has failed then this light will not illuminate even briefly.
The low pressure light will or should illuminate if you have low pressure or if the heating can is "full" of lime or if there is a restriction in the shower head due to limescale or if the hose is kinked. I would first remove the hose + showerhead and run the shower and see if the light illuminates, if it does, put the power selector switch to position 1 or 1/2 power or however its described and keep turning the temperature control knob clockwise towards its hottest position and observe the light, and see if it goes out.
You can also do a bucket test re flow, turn the temperature control to its coldest setting and then measure the amount captured in the bucket over say a 1 min period and you can calculate the flowrate, it should not be < 6 to 8 LPM.

Also, if the shower low pressure light is wired up internally like my Mira Sport then even with a perfectly good operating shower the light will illuminate very briefly for a second or two when the start button is pressed. If the TCO (thermal cut out) has operated or has failed then this light will not illuminate even briefly.

Thanks John. I removed the hose and shower head, the low pressure light turns on briefly then goes out yet the water does not get hot on either power setting ( I believe the low pressure light being on earlier was due to the washing machine being on aswell) the water is not coming out at any great pressure so I suspect the heating element is scaled up or blown somehow...I'm gonna replace the unit tomorrow and post on here how it went .
 
I wouldn't just bin the old one after removing it, if it is the element that has failed due to limescale, then the same thing will happen again in 2 years or so, it might be worth checking out what has actually failed at your leisure and you then can have a spare shower to replace your new one again in 2 years or so.
You might consider doing that flow test before removing the old shower, it will give you some idea of performance, my shower flows 8 LPM at full flow but the low flow/pressure doesn't operate until ~ a flow rate of 4.5 LPM IF the mains pressure is restricted to test for this which is fair enough as a 9.5kw shower will still give a 30C temp rise and a showering temp of 40C from cold water at 10C.
 
Look the existing unit is u/s whats a new one ...peanuts and will be a like for like it will be a direct replacement..its a no brainer toolstation or screwfix are practically giving them away and a 10 year old could do it...turn off water turn off sparky switch marked shower the one with the fat cable in the consumer unit ..check u have turned off correct trip...replace test for leaks , turn power back on stand back and see if it goes bang if not send your mother in law in for 1st shower just to check continuity ...easy hey
Do let us know how you get on tho ..feedback is kind
Rob Foster aka centralheatking
 
Rob that only has each shower at 1 1/2 minutes so it’s actually loads more!

Agree - just buy a new one
So it might be 150 metric tonnes + can you do the kw thing
say from 10c to 60c plus I will have a go later it will be awesome
Rob. its watts per deg c per cubic volume of water...but me and my boys are Down the Pub in a mo...and guess what its my round yet again...as always...1st beers on a Friday its POETS day after all centralheatking
and its vans left in the yard back to back have a good weekend
 
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