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Discuss Lead Valley in new build - opinions of pictures please in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

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stEEvano

Hello folks, I have registered here tonight to get some opinions on a plumbers work to valleys on front and rear of my new build. He has been back today to "fix it" but to me it still looks naff and I have insisted that a strong North Easterly gale in winter will cause a lot of water to run/jump out over the guttering.

Can anyone tell me if it will be "ok" or if I should insist to his boss that it's all ripped out and started from scratch.... obviously need your comments so I have fire power when I call them first thing.

Cheers in advance guys. The first 4 pics show as installed and the next 4 will be after he's tried to make it better. First 2 pics are rear of house and second 2 front of house, apologies for orientation.

IMG_1630.jpgIMG_1629.jpgIMG_1628.jpgIMG_1627.jpg
 

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These pics are of his attempts to fix it today.... Click on images to enlarge.
Cheers




IMG_1666.jpgIMG_1660.jpgIMG_1662.jpgIMG_1667.jpg
 
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Leadwork needs support, and this support is provided by the carpenter when constructing the roof. All except the bottom,(eaves), tile, sits on the tile below. which itself sits on a tile batten. In order for the bottom tile to sit correctly, top of facia needs to finish 40mm or more above rafter. Timber support to lead needs to reflect this detail. From photos I suspect this has been omitted. Hopefully lead has been dressed over a batten running ridge to eaves underneath edge tiles. Lead should be code 4. Lengths not exceeding 1.5 metre. Each lengths fixed with copper nails at top end only. If the foregoing is correctly constructed dressing the lead will be solution. If not your roofer and carpenter share responsibility. Your plumber's fault seems to be trying to make the best of a bad job and not asking you to insist carpenter provides adequate smooth continuous support for leadwork.
 
Very poor... Strip it out and start again. If the profile is to difficult to dress properly, lead burn it. Unfortunately there are not many people who can do lead work properly anymore.
 
As above, obviously he's not a plumber.
I can't really make out photo from close up but has the wall got step flashings over the
soakers/soaker ?
The bottom section over the gutter should be bossed or burned and should look a lot better than it does.

To be fair to roofer, he may be inexperienced but he really should have said
 
Very poor... Strip it out and start again. If the profile is to difficult to dress properly, lead burn it. Unfortunately there are not many people who can do lead work properly anymore.

The images are not an over view of work so can be difficult to be part of a jury without more evidence.
However there are a few points:-
The slates look like composite tiles. (they lap each other a few inches /mm ?)
Weathering with soakers is not recommended with this type of tile / slate
150 mm cover over tiles (on top)and an up stand of say 80 mm and cover flashing bent at 90 degrees and turned in to chase in wall.
An alternative (which looks better in this situation) would be a secret valley. This method allows the sheet lead to go under the tiles, but all parties engaged in the work need to know before work starts as to what method is being used. As the the timer work has to be formed to accommodate the sheet lead valley.
The budget has a lot to do with the situation.
Why was the chase for the lead work not done at batten stage? Before tiles were fitted. This allows lead work to be completed in one stage.
Lead work is no longer part of plumbing training. Roofer are now responsible for lead work. Mentioning this is not much help to you Sir but it underline the challenges in roof construction when trying to maintain a good code of practice.
This link may help Free Information Sheets | The Lead Sheet Association Technical and Health and Safety | The Lead Sheet Association
Good luck with the project.
 
Anyone who has worked with lead and knows what they are doing would never leave creases in the lead like as shown in your photo's.

Basically anyone with knowledge in Lead work would never get themselves into a situation to leave creases in the lead.

Pull a tile off and see whether it has a weathering fold under the tile.
The lead should be folded back to at least 135 degrees to stop water pouring into the roof.
 
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